Makup air for Combustion and Baro?

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2biz
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Post by 2biz » Sun. Nov. 12, 2017 7:40 am

I'm still in the process of installing my AK-110 and thinking about makeup air for combustion and possibly for the baro. I have searched the forum over and have found numerous threads on make up air for combustion, but nothing for the baro?

Since the AK-110 is located in an "insulated" 1000 sq ft attached garage/shop, my plans are to run 3" or 4" pvc from the above vented attic down to the combustion fan. About a 7' run of PVC...Good idea or bad?

While in the planning stage, I was wondering if anyone could offer advice on whether its a good idea (Or Not) to supply a fresh air supply close to the baro...Again, searching the forum and googling returned absolutely nothing on the subject....Maybe someone could share the do's and don'ts and why? BTW, the AK-110 has a bottom flu exit and the baro is about 30" off the floor. See pic...

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Post by McGiever » Sun. Nov. 12, 2017 10:37 am

Not best plan to go vertical all the way...it will act as a second chimney, and that is the opposite of what you are trying to achieve.

 
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Post by 2biz » Sun. Nov. 12, 2017 11:41 am

I guess I was thinking more of a distance thing v/s a vertical run having a chimney effect. But makes sense....Its only 10' horizontal to an outside wall, so its no biggy to run it that way.

So was thinking more about makeup air for the baro...Was too early when I posted the question, the coffee hadn't got the brain cells moving yet!!! Probably not a good idea since it may kill draft pulling in colder air, huh?

 
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Post by Lightning » Sun. Nov. 12, 2017 11:52 am

The only circumstance I would use make up air is if you are having draft issues.


 
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Post by coaledsweat » Sun. Nov. 12, 2017 12:32 pm

The baro MUST vent to the room the appliance is in.

 
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Post by McGiever » Sun. Nov. 12, 2017 12:42 pm

I'm with *Lightning*, you maybe good already...not many structures are a true "bubble", especially a shop/garage. ;)

A simple dryer vent w/ swing check to only swing IN, mounted wherever you think a influx of cold outside air is tolerable, and don't forget the vermin screen.

 
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Post by coalkirk » Sun. Nov. 12, 2017 6:44 pm

If your garage/workshop is "tight" then yes you should have make up air. If there is air that can "leak" in around the garage door or the windows are leaky probably not. I'm guessing since you said it was insulated you've made it tight too, A 4" PVC pipe to the exterior just into the room is adequate. It doesn't need to run to the combustion intake or baro. Air will find it's own way. I use 4" PVC with a strainer type cover to keep out mice, snakes etc.
Last edited by coalkirk on Sun. Nov. 12, 2017 8:22 pm, edited 1 time in total.

 
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Post by Pacowy » Sun. Nov. 12, 2017 7:25 pm

I think you should be pro-active about making sure you have adequate make-up air. As houses have gotten "tighter", building codes have started to get pretty specific about things that safely could be ignored in drafty old houses. While you reasonably are trying to gather info about the best way to run your coal appliance, I think the codes (and those who enforce them) are becoming increasingly concerned with the prospect that someone in your house turning on a range hood or a bathroom fan could draw flue gases from your coal appliance or other potentially harmful fumes from your garage into the house. My suggestion would be that you prepare for the possibility that your building inspector and/or homeowners insurance provider are getting more sensitive to make-up air issues, and make sure your plan deals realistically with concerns you may encounter.

Mike


 
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Post by 2001Sierra » Sun. Nov. 12, 2017 7:54 pm

What you can do is run the vent from tha attic you are speaking of into an open top box on the floor. The heavier cold air will not come out of the box unless there is a draw.

 
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Post by 2biz » Fri. Dec. 08, 2017 7:52 am

Thought I would post a quick update to the Cold Air Supply for the combustion fan. Given the excellent feedback I got, I decided to run it horizontally and out the wall at ground level. I debated the ground level hole location since it was going to take 4 elbows to get it there, but I already had the hole through the wall for an Air conditioning drain. So I just made it bigger and ran the 3" PVC through it with another elbow angled slightly to face it away from the ground. I put a piece of Stainless Steel heavy gage screen in the intake of the elbow to keep critters out...If you notice, I put a 3" to 4" rubber adapter on the pipe at the combustion fan. I don't know if it helps? It kinda funnels the air in... You can feel the air getting sucked from the cold supply to the fan. You can feel the air getting sucked in from the outside inlet, so I know its working as it should. Also note that I left a 2" air space between the fan and adapter. The main reason was so I could adjust the air restrictor plate if needed...I also wanted to eliminate the concern of having the supply blocked off "For Some Strange Reason" and choking the fan, so I felt it best to leave the air gap. Although, I did have concerns about cold air cooling off the garage/shop since it was open to the inside air? I can put that concern to rest now since it got to 20° last night and the shop is as warm as toast! So is the house!

So far I am totally satisfied I made the right decision to include the Cold Air Supply. You can't feel any temperature difference at the furnace and leaving the air space allows the air to warm a little from the heat off the back of the furnace.

Some Stats:

Outside Temp: 20°
Max Feed Set on Coal Trol: 30 (I know, way under Max Capable, But I don't think I'll need more than that!)
FR this morning: 50%
Set point: 67° (We like this temperature!)
Actual Temp inside house: 67°
Heating appr. 2200 sq ft single level ranch with 2 bedroom registers closed off (Bedrooms Not Used, total sq ft 2480)
Residual Heat from furnace to heat 1000 sq ft Shop, no ducts in garage: 62° (Very Comfortable for the shop/Man Cave!)
24 hr coal usage, Temp high of 34°, low of 25° yesterday: 60-70 lbs (Awsome for as much as this furnace is heating!)

By now, only after running the furnace for a week or so, I wished I would have done this years ago instead of all the back breaking labor associated with burning wood! Also, I can't believe how accurate the Coal Trol is at keeping the house a constant temperature as set....I would recommend this furnace to any one. Its a beast!!!!

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Post by 2biz » Sat. Dec. 09, 2017 9:58 am

The Intake...I have a piece of plywood angled over the intake and rain shield for the pending snow today. I'll come up with something better later. We don't get much snow here in Southern Ohio, so might not be too big of issue.

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Post by Rob R. » Sat. Dec. 09, 2017 10:09 am

For others looking at make-up air solutions, Field Controls offers this nice kit:

http://www.supplyhouse.com/Field-Controls-MAS-1-M ... ntake-Hood

It is kind of a like a baro, there is a weight on the flap that you can adjust to control how easily it opens.

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