Burning 100lbs/day!?

 
brandonh98
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Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Leisure Line Hyfire

Post by brandonh98 » Fri. Nov. 10, 2017 7:46 pm

21*outside. 84* in basement and 66* on first floor. Need to get more of this heat upstairs for sure.


 
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gambler
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Post by gambler » Fri. Nov. 10, 2017 8:04 pm

By using that much coal I will assume the basement is block walls. It is amazing how many BTU's
can be sucked up by concrete. Until you insulate you will not get what you are looking for. Adding ductwork will help greatly as it will kind of separate the basement from the heat load. I was in your exact shoes a long time ago.
I ended up with my stove on the main floor and could not be happier with it that way. I am a firm believer that a stove
is a thing of beauty and belongs on the main floor where it can be seen. A furnace is ugly and belongs in the basement where it can not be seen.

edit: I see you have a hyfire. Leave it in the basement and get ductwork. Both supply and return. It will make a huge difference.

 
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McGiever
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Post by McGiever » Sat. Nov. 11, 2017 12:04 am

Return ducts or at least return air will make or break this situation.

Remember it take 15-20% more sq. in. area of more return registers than for the the supply registers...do not be stingy with the returns.

You say stove has jacket but still it is like 80* in basement...yup, there's lots of room for improvements down there.

BTW: Masonry walls offer little resistance to heat flow. By February you may start to get that all saturated...or maybe not???
Put fiber glass insulation around the rim joist spaces on a four walls too. ;)

 
brandonh98
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Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Leisure Line Hyfire

Post by brandonh98 » Fri. Nov. 24, 2017 11:14 pm

Just wanted to follow up on this. I've added two supply registers and a cold air return and I'm seeing what i would consider a minor improvement on coal usage. Basement never get's to 80+ anymore but is still hovering around mid to upper 70's while maintaining 69-70 on the first floor. It looks like basement insulation is in the cards. I was looking at the 1" thick foam board but man is it expensive. Anyone have a recommendation on 1" vs 0.5" vs 0.25" foam board to insulate the basement?

I started the stove on Oct 30th and have burned exactly 1 ton so far to date. Anyone else burn this much coal yet?

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rjc862003
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Post by rjc862003 » Fri. Nov. 24, 2017 11:19 pm

plenum needs to be bigger minimum of 4 6inch feeds avoid extending the plenum like you have you want the feeds as close to the firebox as you can get

our 140 and cast 3 both go through about 42lbs a day so

your basement is a hell of a lot less drafty then ours the problem is you aren't moving enough air if the basement is warm you need to move air not insulate
but your hand on the lower part of the plenum if you can keep it there you need more air-flow and a dedicated cold air return

your setup looks pretty simple you are gonna need to get a cold air box, more floor regs and possibly a bigger blower

 
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Post by rjc862003 » Fri. Nov. 24, 2017 11:21 pm

rjc862003 wrote:
Fri. Nov. 24, 2017 11:19 pm
plenum needs to be bigger minimum of 4 6inch feeds avoid extending the plenum like you have you want the feeds as close to the firebox as you can get

our 140 and cast 3 both go through about 42lbs a day so and thats with the cast set on 1.5 and the 140 single set on 4

your basement is a hell of a lot less drafty then ours the problem is you aren't moving enough air if the basement is warm you need to move air not insulate
but your hand on the lower part of the plenum if you can keep it there you need more air-flow and a dedicated cold air return

your setup looks pretty simple you are gonna need to get a cold air box, more floor regs and possibly a bigger blower

 
brandonh98
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Post by brandonh98 » Sat. Nov. 25, 2017 1:57 pm

Thanks for the reply rjc. The heat jacket with the two 8" feeds is what came with the stove from leisure line. I probably wont be changing that, but are you suggesting I take off the two 8" stove pipes running from the heat jacket to the plenum and just put the plenum right on top of the heat jacket? That would be pretty easy to do but I'm not sure how much I would gain by doing that and then the flex duct would be right in my face when standing in front of the stove.

That one flex duct is feeding two registers with a single in line duct fan right off the plenum. I'm thinking of putting a second take off of the plenum and adding another in line duct fan so each register is connected directly to the plenum with its own in line duct fan. That might help. As far as a cold air return, I cut in a third register right above the stove with the intention of running a trunk from it to the back of the stove. After pricing it out I'm not sure I'll be running the trunk. I hoping that between that third register and leaving the basement door open that there is enough cold air return, or is this a mistake?


 
rjc862003
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Post by rjc862003 » Sat. Nov. 25, 2017 2:38 pm

cold air will of course sink down into the basement eventually but if the basement is warmer then the upstairs then thats gonna be considerably slower you have a wall of hotair blocking the cool air from getting down and circulating
all the riser pipes are doing is radiating more heat into the basement insulate the hotside
as for the cold intake you could do it cheaply just get 8 inch starter collar and adapt it onto the blower intake

 
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windyhill4.2
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Post by windyhill4.2 » Sat. Nov. 25, 2017 3:28 pm

Put pipe on the cold air registers,stop the pipe about 6" from the floor.now you will have a cold air return that actually works.

 
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hotblast1357
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Post by hotblast1357 » Sat. Nov. 25, 2017 4:18 pm

The cold air return needs to be tied to the blower. Cold air return duct work needs to be larger than heat duct work.

I don’t understand the need for the in line fans? Put a big enough blower on the stove.

 
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Post by Jgib4 » Tue. Nov. 28, 2017 11:13 pm

Most of the time with basements your greatest loss is around the sill plate and rim joist. Stuff that area with insulation and I did the expanding foam around the insulation (I used foam boards) and it drastically changed how easy my house was to heat.

 
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Post by molson4725 » Mon. Jan. 01, 2018 10:18 pm

Ducting the heat to the areas you are trying to heat will make a big difference. I put a duct to the upstairs first floor on my pocono and it made a huge difference. Basically with the heat blowing in the basement you are heating that area mostly. Walls are sucking up alot of that heat.
Also need good air exchange (cold air returning). Just my two cents.

 
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Post by rjc862003 » Mon. Jan. 01, 2018 10:31 pm

its -5 here and we are using 120Lbs a day feeding the 140 single and kast IIII

 
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Post by michaelanthony » Tue. Jan. 02, 2018 11:14 am

brandonh98 wrote:
Fri. Nov. 10, 2017 10:41 am
I don't have a number for stack temp but I can tell you it's not that hot. I can put my hand on the stack where it goes into the thimble.

Basement temp is between 76-81 depending on feed rate. Temp on first floor has never gone above 70 and usually hangs around 67-68.

I think duct work in certainly in order.
Hi Brandon, I think getting cold air down will help more before you design a supply system. Insulate the top 4 feet of the basement walls, these are the coldest. Then if needed do the bottom half. I can't help you with your coal burner but I have done a lot of homework moving heated air.
Keep in mind heat is going into your attic...first things first!...and best of luck.

Mike

edit: I just read your question about 1" and .5" rigid. I used .5" foil both sides on vertical furring strips 2 ft on center in my basement and saved close to a ton of coal last yr. ;)

 
brandonh98
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Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Leisure Line Hyfire

Post by brandonh98 » Sat. Jan. 06, 2018 5:39 pm

Hi Mike,

Thanks for the replies on both threads. I spend a lot of time sealing up the attic yesterday sealing and installing a new bathroom fan. Next project is the 0.5" rigid in the basement. This may have to wait until next heating season though.

Thanks again


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