Coalpail.com Forum

If it turns freely with the auger supported, it should be fine with coal in the tube.

Rob R. wrote: ↑

Fri. Oct. 06, 2017 5:25 am

If it turns freely with the auger supported, it should be fine with coal in the tube.

That's what I thought, had me stumped at first as I couldn't find anything wrong and they were both new.

"EFM AF-150 Disassembly, Rebuild, Installation" Makes more sense Thanks!

Assembled pot and stoker today out side and once I connected the auger to the stoker it turned quite well, guess the added support and proper alignment is what it needed. So needless to say for less then $6 for a bag of coal I amused myself for a few hours... just sitting there watching, listing, and a little tinkering with settings, best amusement I had for so little money in a long time

Here is a couple of pictures, just starting up, a little while later and then about an hour later. To me everything seemed to work perfect.

Since I'm happy with the stoker assembly... Now on to the next part of prepping for reassembly.

The main body and heat exchanger, should this be painted and if so with black or silver high temp. paint ? There is some slight surface rust which pretty much will wipe off with a little rubbing and a wire brush. The reason for the surface rust is the night I got home with it I was beat and figured I would unload it in the morning, the 11 o'clock weather report had no mention of rain, well, surprise surprise, it rained early that next morning... there was no rust when I picked it up except for the normal, on the inside and the plate gasket surface's. Where these things painted from the factory?

At the moment before I move it downstairs I need to clean up the inside and if I'm going to paint it I want to do that in the garage first.

Progress is slow, one reason delayed is because I had to get the remaining bit coal out of the coal bin and get the Warm Morning moved.

Getting ready for cleaning it up but have a question on the internal baffle. I don't seem to find a parts listing for the furnace except the one posted by "stoker-man" the listing he posted is an older AF-150 with a round door and the baffle is vertical, I have a square door and the baffle on this furnace is round and just hangs there horizontally.

So my question I know it is a bit wore but does this baffle appear to be OK ? The baffle measures 11" across and it is just about level with the bottom opening to the heat exchanger, I don't know what it is supposed to look like, anyone have a photo? If I should replace it, it would be simply just snap the bolt, and use a round steel plate and some threaded rod.

Looks good to me.

Rob R. wrote: ↑

Thu. Oct. 12, 2017 5:41 am

Looks good to me.

Yea looks fine to me as well, guessing normal wear and tear, it should do what it is designed to do..

Well finally started to clean up and realized I needed to get some "before" pics.... so here they are... bare shell, taken with wife's cell which is much better than mine.

Need to get the underside yet I guess....

Managed to get it downstairs... gravity works pretty good

Temporary connected stoker and pot to figure placement and where I need to make an opening in the bin and figure out if I really needed the 65" for the feed worm like the directions say... Well now I know it's the length needed for getting the feed worm in. But in my defense the directions only say "for coal worm removal" not Feed Worm...


Now need to figure this bin feed trap / doghouse out. Is it really necessary ?

Bill,
The bin auger placement you have there looks very good. The "doghouse" is not mandatory, I think it's purpose is to make it easier to remove the bin pipe and auger if there is a problem. Your bin is not very wide so you should be OK.

You do need to make sure your feed hole in the side of the bin doesn't cause any stress or bending of the pipe/auger. I usually make the hole a little bigger than the pipe. Then after the bin pipe is installed, make a plywood plate with the correct sized pipe hole, cut it in half. Then install it with some caulk and drywall screws. The caulk will keep fines from leaking out of the bin.

You also need to keep the mouth of the auger 4" to 6" above the bottom of the bin. Fines accumulate at the mouth of the auger and the 4" to 6" give them someplace to go other than into the bin pipe/auger.

-Don

"The use of a Bin Feed Trap...is recommended. This will aid in the removal of the bin feed pipe and worm for service and will make the end of the worm accessible for removal of obstructions." So it's not exactly "necessary", but there are good reasons why it is "recommended". I think you will find posts on the forum from people who have skipped the doghouse, and wound up having to scoop out the contents of the bin to clear foreign objects blocking/jamming the auger.

Mike

StokerDon wrote: ↑

Sun. Oct. 15, 2017 11:46 am

You also need to keep the mouth of the auger 4" to 6" above the bottom of the bin. Fines accumulate at the mouth of the auger and the 4" to 6" give them someplace to go other than into the bin pipe/auger.

I don't think you'll find this in the manual. The angle at which the pipe exits the stoker and the length of the auger and pipe determine the elevation of the mouth of the auger pipe, and will be close to the "ground" (i.e., the plane of the bottom of the base) with a stock extension. There should be no "forcing" of the auger and extension to achieve the 4-6". Fines should not accumulate excessively if the protrusion of the auger beyond the pipe is 4" per the manual. As I believe the Mayor has advised in the past, each bin load should be cleared before the next one is added, largely to prevent fines buildup.

Mike

Cut the outer bin wall the width of a small shovel,right under the auger.Build side walls in past the end of the auger as part of the doghouse. Now you will be able to periodically take a shovel or two of fines out without emptying the bin. There is no good reason that the auger needs to go thru a hole,it just needs supported. This will make auger removal easier too when the time comes.

I guess I need to explain a little more.

The hole for the auger was put there so I could have a visual and get approximate measurements (and also confused with the 65" thing), I used a straight edge on the feed tube to get the spot where the auger would go through. I have about 3" extra to the cinderblock wall to get the feed auger in the tube. So that distance I would say is good.

My bin is only 2' wide by 8' long and 8' hight, I have an opening at the top at the far end where I can fill it from outside.
Where the hole for the auger is, is about 12" from the end/entrance, where it goes through the board is about 10" at the bottom. Following the same angle with a straight edge to the wall will put the auger about 6" from the floor so I guess that is good as well.

So I am thinking at least the end auger should end about 4-6" from the wall or should be more in the middle, end 12" from either end ? But then this is where I get confused on the feed trap. Looking at the picture in the instructions it appears that there is a space /opening just above the auger, so wouldn't that allow coal just to flow out into the trap?

windyhill4.2 wrote: ↑

Sun. Oct. 15, 2017 12:21 pm

Build side walls in past the end of the auger as part of the doghouse

Do you mean like boards going across from side to side, the 24" part? If so that is what I was thinking making a slide opening like the end creating like a barrel something in line like the Mayor mentions in a few of his post on bins.

From the end of my feed tube to the cinderblock wall is about 50" so I'm thinking the extension tube for end auger needs to be somewhere about 40" and then the extension worm/auger should be around 44". But I'm guessing that is not critical as long as the worm sticks out the end of the tube 4"....

The wall that you currently have a round hole for the auger,my idea would be to remove that section... no round hole... just make a half-moon in a 2x4,screw it fast under the auger for support. That way when you want to take the auger out someday,just unscrew the 2x4 which will be easier then pulling it thru that hole.you don't have to support the very end of the auger tube which means nothing would block access to the end of the auger. Coal will only flow a couple of inches past the inner end of the dog box.Under the dog box would be empty space where you could stick a shovel in under the auger end & pull out some coal periodically to get rid of fines or if oversize object gets stuck in there.