Combustion Air Covers

ssmilloy36 · Post by **ssmilloy36** » Tue. Jan. 10, 2017 8:18 pm

It's my third year with the ak 220 (only use one side) and I just realized there is an adjustable air intake cover. After searching I've found nothing, maybe I don't know what I am searching for.

Is it ok to open shield all the way. It clearly increases flame. This year I'm having a hard time reaching set temp. Its 20 outside and I set indoors to 68. I'm at 62 and not rising F99. I've adjusted max and still not getting anything. Im assuming the combustion air increase will be the answer.

Any advice?

CoalisCoolxWarm · Post by **CoalisCoolxWarm** » Tue. Jan. 10, 2017 9:15 pm

What is your draft reading (do you have a manometer)?

ssmilloy36 · Post by **ssmilloy36** » Wed. Jan. 11, 2017 6:54 am

no I do not. professional used my old oil furnace one. that furnace is still connected and used in the warmer days.
I went through 4.5 tons last year and we all know that was a warm winter. it doesn't seem right. currently 3 bags a day and always have pebbles in the bucket never hot ones though. @f99 I am one inch from end.
not sure where metal shield was I kinda felt in the dark. got overly warm by morning. worried about too big a flame

ssmilloy36 · Post by **ssmilloy36** » Wed. Jan. 11, 2017 6:59 am

let's say I get a manometer and research how to use one. this blow dryer looking combustion fan would adjust the flu's draft?

McGiever · Post by **McGiever** » Wed. Jan. 11, 2017 7:04 am

yes, but using only 1 of 2 burners makes it tricky.

ssmilloy36 · Post by **ssmilloy36** » Wed. Jan. 11, 2017 7:53 am

digital https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00N3PPZZY/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484139053&sr=8-1&pi=SL75_QL70&keywords=manometer

analog https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00KXB6Z32/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1484139053&sr=8-6&pi=SL75_QL70&keywords=manometer

if I go cheap on digital am I better off going old fashioned. digital gets good reviews

titleist1 · Post by **titleist1** » Wed. Jan. 11, 2017 8:12 am

You need something that can accurately measure 0 - 0.1" h2O that is the range you will be running. These two are widely used here.

https://www.amazon.com/Dwyer-25-Manometer-Inclined-Vertical- ... i+model+25

or this

https://www.amazon.com/Dwyer-Magnehelic-Differential-Pressur ... elic+gauge

Post by **Rob R.** » Wed. Jan. 11, 2017 9:02 am

If you can't heat the house properly, why are you only using one stoker? I can't imagine that makes good use of the heat exchanger...Plus it may be sucking air through the unused stoker.

Light the 2nd stoker, set the max feed to whatever LL recommends, and adjust the air so you get a full stoker of fire. The burning coal should be blturner to ash just before the last set of air holes on the grate.

Excess combustion air reduces efficiency.

ssmilloy36 · Post by **ssmilloy36** » Wed. Jan. 11, 2017 9:43 am

second burner for 5000 sq ft house. I have 1800 but got the ak 220 cheaper than a 110.
had no issue last year getting set point temp. think while cleaning might have bumped the cover. just figured wasting coal burning two and when parts go in the future bad I'll then use side two.

McGiever · Post by **McGiever** » Wed. Jan. 11, 2017 10:07 am

Enjoy your saved money getting more than twice what you needed.

No sense arguing w/ success.

ssmilloy36 · Post by **ssmilloy36** » Wed. Jan. 11, 2017 10:21 am

but this is a clear air issue. if my air is wrong and I enable side two my air is still wrong. next day airing the meter. thanks for the quick replies!

not sure if it's coming with detailed instructions. what should my meter read? do I put it before or after the barometer in the flue? isn't outside temp a major factor in the reading?

titleist1 · Post by **titleist1** » Wed. Jan. 11, 2017 10:43 am

You should get readings on the manometer from two places to compare, one in the firebox itself and one in the flue pipe before the baro. Do you have a chimney or direct / power vent?

If you don't have a chimney there will be instructions in the manual for setting the direct / power vent up based on the measured draft.

LL manuals have the recommended draft numbers but should be in the ballpark of 0.02 over fire and 0.05 in the flue pipe....check the manual or call LL for the exact numbers.

Adjusting the amount of fan intake the baffle plate covers is part of setting up and the manometer gives you the actual numbers to do it accurately.

Do you have a couple CO monitors?

forgot to ask, which mano did you get?

Olllotj · Post by **Olllotj** » Wed. Jan. 11, 2017 10:50 am

I don't see how having both burners lit would a sacrifice in efficiency?

Wouldn't the burners just have shorter cycles?

I hope you're making your domestic hot water with that bad boy as well.

It may be because I don't have one and have never used one, but It seems like the coal trol really complicates everything.

ssmilloy36 · Post by **ssmilloy36** » Wed. Jan. 11, 2017 11:24 am

yes I have two different brand co monitors. I have a chimney. how would you use in fire box. I'm gathering you drill holes in flue so again how check fire box

got the dwyer mano

titleist1 · Post by **titleist1** » Wed. Jan. 11, 2017 11:53 am

From Page 10 of the manual found on their website.....

All stoves must utilize a Barometric Draft Control such as the Field Controls Type RC Barometric Damper, the weights should be adjusted to obtain a -.03” to -.05” water column negative pressure in the flue pipe at the stove outlet. Draft should be checked using a draft meter or manometer. Over fire pressure can be checked by drilling a small ¼” hole in front of furnace usually below the top door and just above the bottom door. It should be -.02 to -.03 water column no lower than -.01. Combustion air is pre-determined by blower size and should be correct from the factory, if it is necessary combustion air can be reduced by adjusting the block off plate covering part of the intake side of the combustion blower. Caution!! Do not increase blower size for increased firing for any reason

Near the stove I used copper tubing left over from a refrigerator water line, others use brake line to handle the temps. Then you transition to the tubing that comes with the manometer. After the initial set up mine stays in the flue pipe all the time. I can tell when to cover my baro in the warmer weather by watching the manometer.