More Advice Welcomed

tw230
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Post Fri. May. 16, 2008 1:29 pm

Thru all the advice hear I finally put a Leisure Line Pioneer on order. I tried to look into a boiler but man I don't see anything used coming for sale anytime soon. With everybodies pricews going up in june or july I desided not to wait to get a used one somewhere. So I need to get the Bin fabricated but my bigger project is the chimney. I am pretty sure I don't want to do the Power vent. Here is my situation. My stove will sit in a room with 8' ceiling with a roof top that is about 5' higher then the ceiling. It has a pretty steep pitch. The stove also only sits about 10' from the side of my house that is two stories high. I figure I could go straight out the ceiling and end the chimney top 2' above the lower roof peek but be only 10' from the side of the house. I could go out my back wall and possibly angle the pipe away from the house a little and end up 12' from the house and 2' above the lower roof peek. Also then there is the block chimney plan also. It is a top vent stove. Sure open to anybody's suggestions. Thanks


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gambler
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Stove/Furnace Make: Leisure Line
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Location: western Pa

Post Fri. May. 16, 2008 1:34 pm

You have me confused. (which isn't hard)

Post some pics of your layout.

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LsFarm
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Post Fri. May. 16, 2008 1:51 pm

It sounds like you will have the chimney in the 'shadow' of the second story of your house. If you have windows on that side of the second story this is a no-no. AND being in the shadow of the second story, will often create downdrafts as wind comes over the taller part of the house and drops to the lower level.. You don't want downdrafts.. You really need the chimney cap to be above all structures within 10-12 feet.. Where does the prevailiing wind blow from, over what part of the house??

As Gambler suggested,, post a photo and or a sketch of what you are describing..

Greg L

tw230
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Post Fri. May. 16, 2008 5:47 pm

I'll get a picture up soon. Thanks for the ideas. Maybe the power vent is the only option. My addition is on the east side of the house and the wind comes from the west or north. The side clearance is my concern. I have gotten advice from "no problem" to "could be". With a little wiggling I can get 12 feet away. Straight out is 10' from house. I have no windows on that side.

tw230
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Post Sat. May. 17, 2008 9:17 am

I hope I inserted the picture correctly. I also thought of another idea. I plan to put the stove right in the middle of the breezway. I can't move the stove closer to the garage because of a closet. If I move the stove toward the house a couple feet it will radiate into the house hallway better PLUS I would be right against my chimney. My parents have a brand new dented 80gal electric water heater. We are not water hounds. I could completely diconnect the oil furnace and run the stove pipe into the chimney. Would it be a problem to cut thru the outside of the chimney to put the pipe in? How expensive are electric water heaters and also accually how much oil do I use in a year just for domestic hot water? We have 2 kids and we wash with cold water. My oil furnace does have the efficient extra water tank along side setup though.
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Devil505
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Post Sat. May. 17, 2008 9:28 am

If you are going to put the stove in the breezeway, how about cutting a hole in the side of your house (adjacent to the chimney in the breezeway attic) & blowing the stove warmed air into the main house?

tw230
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Post Sat. May. 17, 2008 10:35 am

My breezway floor is about 3 feet lower then the house first floor. Then my breezeway attic pretty much right in line with my second floor. On the inside I have the breezway ceiling slanted up to be flush with the hallway ceiling. That pretty much leaves no attic space left right where it connects to the house.
DSC03194.JPG
I plan to put the stove where the ellipitacle is. That is the chimney to the left of the steps. I could loose the door. I never use it anyway.

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LsFarm
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Post Sat. May. 17, 2008 10:42 am

I would definitely use the existing chimney,, installing a shorter chimney 10-12' away is a waste of money and it will probably be exposed to down drafts off the roof..

You may loose the door,, but you could also move the door, that isn't that hard,, matching the outside siding is the hardest part.

Greg L

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Yanche
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Stoker Coal Boiler: Alternate Heating Systems S-130
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Post Sat. May. 17, 2008 7:55 pm

I'd put the stove at the door, blocking it. Get a season of use with the coal stove to see how you like it and the routine of coal burning. If all is well I'd move the door to the right and extend the roof down and out where the door now is to create a shed for coal storage or perhaps for containing a boiler for heating the entire house. In any event plan on using the existing chimney. Think of what you do as a temporary solution until the right priced boiler comes along.

tw230
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Post Sun. May. 18, 2008 3:56 pm

So how much trouble is it to get a hole thru the brick chimney and flue? I built the breezeway complete myself so the door move is not a problem. If I use that Chimney the Oil furnace is Not an option to use anymore then. Do you guys feel pretty good the L.L. will do my good for the winter without the oil for heat at all? I was hoping it would with some creative circulation. I have the electric water heater so domestic hot water is not a problem. I just have to get it hooked up in parrelell to the oil setup now. Really thanks for all the input. It helps out greatly!!

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LsFarm
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Post Sun. May. 18, 2008 4:06 pm

I used a masonry drill to drill a series of holes in the brick and cinderblock chimney. The same for the terracotta flue liner.. Then careful use of a hammer and chisel to open up the hole for the steel flue pipe.

You can use the the chimney for both appliances,, just the code inspectors and your insurance company may not like it.

Take a look at install manual on this link.. I shows several good points about installing a flue pipe, the height and location of a chimney and other installation concerns.. good reading. :
**Broken Link(s) Removed**Greg L

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syncmaster
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Stoker Coal Boiler: harmanVF3000 Coal/oil option
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Location: long Island,NY

Post Sat. May. 24, 2008 6:55 pm

I would cancel the LL stove and install a Harman VF3000 stoker coal boiler with oil gun option in place of the oil burner into the existing chimney.
Why are you looking for a use coal boiler? You are going to end up spending probly $3500.00 for the stove.
and the stove will probly cut your heating bill by 60%. and your house will have hot rooms and cold rooms.

The vf3000 will cost you $5200.00 and will do all the house heating.
you will use zero fuel oil plus you will have the option of burning oil if it ever drops to a decent price.
and your house will be evenly heated

I say if you are going to do something... do it right the first time.!!

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gambler
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Location: western Pa

Post Sat. May. 24, 2008 9:13 pm

syncmaster wrote:I would cancel the LL stove and install a Harman VF3000 stoker coal boiler with oil gun option in place of the oil burner into the existing chimney.
Why are you looking for a use coal boiler? You are going to end up spending probly $3500.00 for the stove.
and the stove will probly cut your heating bill by 60%. and your house will have hot rooms and cold rooms.

The vf3000 will cost you $5200.00 and will do all the house heating.
you will use zero fuel oil plus you will have the option of burning oil if it ever drops to a decent price.
and your house will be evenly heated

I say if you are going to do something... do it right the first time.!!
Some people may not have that much cash ($5200) to spend right now on a new boiler. I know that I am strapped for cash but I had enough last year for a good used stove. I have $1400 wrapped up in my coal burning appliance (stove and chimney,coal bin) and it does a great job of heating my house (100%). Yes I would love to have a boiler also but when you don't have the cash you must get what you can afford.

syncmaster
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Stoker Coal Boiler: harmanVF3000 Coal/oil option
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Stove/Furnace Make: VF3000
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Location: long Island,NY

Post Sat. May. 24, 2008 9:46 pm

gambler wrote:
Some people may not have that much cash ($5200) to spend right now on a new boiler. I know that I am strapped for cash but I had enough last year for a good used stove. I have $1400 wrapped up in my coal burning appliance (stove and chimney,coal bin) and it does a great job of heating my house (100%). Yes I would love to have a boiler also but when you don't have the cash you must get what you can afford.
Yes, I agree if you can only spend $1400.00 there is no way you can do $5200.00
and if you are heating 100% with that stove that is outstanding.
but this guy is looking at $3500.00 and the way his house is , I think he will be hard pressed to reduce his heating costs by 60% with a stove in his breezway. which means he will still have to come up with money for fuel oil which will probly be $4.50 to $5.00/ gal next winter.

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LsFarm
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Location: Michigan

Post Sun. May. 25, 2008 2:52 am

A LL Pioneer is around $2400 new, not $3500, and that's with a coal-trol.

I like Yanche's point of view,, try it for a year,, save a significant amount of money over burning oil,, and keep looking for a boiler.. A good used boiler is usually around $2000 or so. BIG savings over a new $5200 one..

My AA 260 was $1500 used,, New it's about $8000, I have a lot of work and some new parts involved in rebuilding it,, but I know the boiler inside and out. Important for me, since nobody is going to fix it but me anyway.

There is no question that a boiler is the way to go,, eventually..

Greg L


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