Hitzer 50-93

Im fixin to purchase a hitzer 50-93 but have a few ?'s from people who have used this stove before. I plan on runnin it fairly low because I wont need to max heat for the 850 sq ft that I have to heat,but wanted a bigger stove for when I move to a bigger place ill have it. I seen whear someone said that it don't like to burn very well on a low setting? also my other concern is the amount of coal it burns. I plan on burnin nut size,or mabey even take the hopper out and burn stove coal as I read that u could do. will the 50lb last a good 24hrs on low to medium setting? I also I seen whear u can get it with or without the blower,if I got one without the blower could I just add the blower later? thanks for youre time and input. I will be installin a baro damper.

Our Hitzer expert will be along shortly. I had won for a while and enjoyed it.

You will NOT get a good idle using a stove coal mix--go with pea/nut--yes if your under air is set right 24 hrs ( or more) is no problem--I don't think w/ blower is all that much more$$$$$$$$4--DO NOT install a baro if set up right there is no need to add more gadgets then actually needed.

freetown fred wrote:You will NOT get a good idle using a stove coal mix--go with pea/nut--yes if your under air is set right 24 hrs ( or more) is no problem--I don't think w/ blower is all that much more$$$$$$$$4--DO NOT install a baro if set up right there is no need to add more gadgets then actually needed.

is thier a paticular setup with height and such on chimney that I should go with? ive always been told u need a baro with coal because of down draft,and u will loose alot of heat with out it,but ill try it with out.

On my HITZER I have triple wall 6" through the attic & 4' above any roof line--6" black from stove to ceiling. As far as misinformation on the baro--what can I say--put a MPD (manual pipe damper) 18" or so from top of stove, I normally keep mine 2/3 closed, & you'll be fine. KISS

The temperature control on the stove will compensate for changes in draft. I have no Baro or manual damper on our 50-93 and it runs fine.

in mild weather ours will go 24 hrs without attention.

freetown fred wrote:On my HITZER I have triple wall 6" through the attic & 4' above any roof line--6" black from stove to ceiling. As far as misinformation on the baro--what can I say--put a MPD (manual pipe damper) 18" or so from top of stove, I normally keep mine 2/3 closed, & you'll be fine. KISS

I kinda thought a manual damper would be fine,but many have argued. from what youre sayin bout the tripple wall pipe and my research,I take it the pipe and stove tempature play a big part in how she burns? so whats youre thoughts on usin black stove pipe for the whole 9 yards,or will it get to hot and should go with a tripple wall to keep pipe a bit cooler..

Use regular black pipe where you can. Put in an MPD if you want, can always leave it open if not needed.

I will second what Fred, and Rob say. GREAT stove........... I run mine without any barometric damper, or Manual pipe damper. When I first bought the stove, I put a manual damper in for safety purposes (Ex Wood Burner), and left it wide open. It wasn't long, and I pulled it out.

EDIT: That being said; If you're going to operate the 50-93 without the fan running, you may want to try leaving the manual pipe damper in. The manual damper would hold down heat for better non-fan, radiant performance. Freetown Fred would know more about this, as he runs his 50-93 mostly without the fan running.

Myself, I always used the fan when running the 50-93 in the house. With the fan running, heat is being taken from the exhaust prior to leaving the stove, due to the fan duct surrounding the exhaust pipe.

So, as mentioned, you could install a manual pipe damper. Leave it open for performance (quick response) with fan on. Damper it down when fan is off, for better radiant results.

50-93: Fan on = performance stove. Fan off = maintainer stove.

If you're running all metal pipe, SOP would be double or triple wall in per-say--attic & any outside. If just going into masonry chimney black pipe will be fine. On my inside black pipe, I can put my hand on it 2' up from stove--so I'm not sold on that pipe temp theory. In a masonry chimney with wood I sometimes had to light paper & get it warm for draw. The design of the HITZER will keep the heat with the stove body & it WILL radiate. I've used my blower a few times in goin on 10 yrs with -20==30 temps. but it's good to know it's there. Ceiling fan on low really distributes the heat also. My putting the MPD in is mostly from burning wood for 45 yrs. I'm on the top side of a VERY windy valley But have never had a puff back from wind.

chevyman1980 wrote: I also I seen whear u can get it with or without the blower,if I got one without the blower could I just add the blower later?

Someone needs to confirm...but I think it cannot be added later.???

McGiever wrote:

chevyman1980 wrote: I also I seen whear u can get it with or without the blower,if I got one without the blower could I just add the blower later?

Someone needs to confirm...but I think it cannot be added later.???

I believe you're correct McGiever.

freetown fred wrote:If you're running all metal pipe, SOP would be double or triple wall in per-say--attic & any outside. If just going into masonry chimney black pipe will be fine. On my inside black pipe, I can put my hand on it 2' up from stove--so I'm not sold on that pipe temp theory. In a masonry chimney with wood I sometimes had to light paper & get it warm for draw. The design of the HITZER will keep the heat with the stove body & it WILL radiate. I've used my blower a few times in goin on 10 yrs with -20==30 temps. but it's good to know it's there. Ceiling fan on low really distributes the heat also. My putting the MPD in is mostly from burning wood for 45 yrs. I'm on the top side of a VERY windy valley But have never had a puff back from wind.

thank ya'll for youre input. think im gonna go with black pipe, to sch 80 6". does it matter much how far above peak of roof u go like wood?

Yes, the same as wood--it's about draft CM. Rule of thumb is 4' above roof peak. I've got a cap on mine.

AFAIK yes the chimney height is the same as wood 2' fer 10' with 3' min. Last year was my first year burning coal and I went with the 50-93 w/blower. I met one of the Hitzer guys up in Gettysburg at a sale and I was balking at getting the blower but I'm pretty sure they said it couldn't be added later...at least easily. I think w/o blower is missing the heat shield on the back that funnels the air out the front. I don't have a baro or mpd and I didn't have any problems burning last season, but from time to time I worry I'm wasting heat up the chimney. Then I come here and read the decade long dispute again and put it off. If I stumble upon some free time I'll probably throw one in to play around with it and ease my mind. I have an insulated ss 25' liner with just the tee connecting to stove and I've had zero issues burning at low settings even when it's hot out. Last Christmas it was 80s but I was finishing a bunch of projects for presents and used the stove to dry everything asap. I had no issues with keeping the coals going and I never open the bottom slider so more than a circle is showing in each of the vents, unless I'm loading the stove or it's almost dead. With that said my house/chimney location is setup for pretty optiomal drafting, so your mileage may vary. You should be able to get around 30hours with 50 lbs easily. I averaged 25-35lbs a day last winter. I leave the stove alone for 24 hour stints with the hopper filled regularly and on return it's nowhere close to out.

Excellent choice in stove. I'm hooked and just picked up a beat up 50-93 off CL to clean up and throw down in my basement.