Harman Magnum Stoker - Water in Hopper and Draft Problems

After using a Harman DVC-500 for several years at my previous house, and being very satisfied with it, I purchased a Harman Magnum Stoker for my new house. I've had it for three years now and it can't hold a candle, let alone a flame, to the DVC. The first two seasons, it worked however with minor problems. 1. The fines tray catches only 1/4 of the fines and seems to be full every day. The motor and electrical wires area needs to be vacuumed out constantly because there will be 2-3 inches of fines laying in there. 2. The thing jams more often than not, causing the need to disassemble everything and remove the jam.

The biggest problems I've had are this season:

1. I'm putting dry coal in the hopper but each time I remove the lid, there is a ton of water built up underneath it and the coal is wet. Is this being caused by rainwater possibly in the chimney?

2. I have a barometric damper installed, however I know very little about them other than I knew I had to have one with this stove, but three times now, my CO alarms have gone off in the middle of the night forcing me to wake the kids, get them outside or near a window, open all the windows, and shut down the stove. I'm beginning to notice a pattern with this now though and it seems to only happen when the temperature outside reaches around 40 degrees overnight.

3. The thing stinks more often than not. The whole house smells like somebodys ass at times and other times, like someones been burning garbage in the hopper.

4. This morning, the stove was turned up considerably (both the heat dial and the feeder dial; they were both set around 5) as I forgot to turn them down after lighting the fire last night but the fire was minimal. It was lower than it would be on the lowest setting.

My biggest fear is the CO and I'm looking for help to resolve this as I fear for my kids sleeping in the house. I'm ready to shut it down and go back to using oil. Is the problem with the damper? Is there a way to adjust that? I checked the chimney and don't see anything there. The clean out door is shut and there is nothing inside to be removed. I've shut it down and performed a thorough cleaning of the entire unit. Not sure what else to check or if I simply need to wait until it gets much colder before I fire it again.

Good to have the CO alarms.
You I believe are having a draft issue.
There will be people coming in shortly to ask more.
1. Do you have a monometer set up or can you get one? You'll need this to set the Baro on chimney.

2. What is your house set-up like?

3. How is the chimney constructed? Basement, main floor.

1. No, no monometer but I now have Google open to help answer that question. I could get one.

2. House is a two story. Downstairs is very open with large openings between rooms. Stove is central on the first floor. Staircases with CO alarms on both the front and the back of the house.

3. The chimney is block outside and comes into the main/first floor. It is in good condition and has been connected to a wood stove for many years prior to the coal stove. Leaving the stove, to the wall, it is the older, non insulated style. The only change to it has been the addition of the damper.

Yes you do indeed have a serious problem there. Kudos to you for the CO detectors, they may have saved you and your family's' lives. Not meaning to be too dramatic but CO needs to be dealt with immediately for the safety of your family. More information about your chimney is needed. You should also install a manometer.

Edit - just saw the post above.

Your draft is poor for some reason. Moisture in the hopper after you put in dry coal indicates flue gases are exiting the stove through the hopper. Most common reasons would be improper adjustment of the combustion fan restrictor plate and or the barometric damper. Either case, CO is a very real hazard. You simply cannot properly adjust a barometric damper without a manometer. Until you get a manometer, tightly cover the barometric damper with aluminum foil. What is the position of your restrictor plate? Oh, is the a mag stoker or a super mag stoker?

Does the chimney have a cleanout door? Possibly outside or in the basement. Make sure it's closed and sealed well. Next, could there be any obstruction in the chimney? With a wood stove used prior, it's possible that creosote flaked off the chimney wall and piled up at the base, creating a blockage. Is the flue pipe properly sealed to the chimney? You don't want the chimney pulling air from the room (other than from the baro), this would also kill the draft.

It's a Super Mag Stoker. I've been reading about the monometer on both this site and through Google searches, as I didn't previously know what one was, but I am not understanding and seeing the importance of it.

The cleanout door on the chimney is closed and sealed and the chimney appears to be (looking up with a mirror) clear.

The restrictor plate question is something else I am unfamiliar with and will look that up next.

Thank you for all of the replies. The monometer is something that I believe I could buy and figure out but it also sounds like a qualified tech might be needed this time for safetys sake.

The manometer is very simple to install and use. It's importance is to measure the amount of negative pressure in the stove. You are getting CO in the house likely because there is a positive pressure condition happening in the fire box. This would cause moisture in the hopper and CO to leak into the living area.

A manometer is cheap and easy to install and a valuable tool for operating any coal appliance. In my opinion, every coal burner should have one.

bobmarvin wrote:It's a Super Mag Stoker. I've been reading about the monometer on both this site and through Google searches, as I didn't previously know what one was, but I am not understanding and seeing the importance of it.

The cleanout door on the chimney is closed and sealed and the chimney appears to be (looking up with a mirror) clear.

The restrictor plate question is something else I am unfamiliar with and will look that up next.

Thank you for all of the replies. The monometer is something that I believe I could buy and figure out but it also sounds like a qualified tech might be needed this time for safetys sake.

I didn't see the point of the monometer last year either. I moved into the house and fired the stove up and let her rip. This year, new stove, install a monometer, and it's amazing house much you can fine tune a stove and get real heat out of the stove and also know when your having any issues. After having one installed i'll never go without one.

Other reason the wood stove worked so well is the high flue temps you'd put out with the wood stove. The stoker will put out MUCH less flue temps which in theory will lower draft.

coalkirk wrote:Your draft is poor for some reason. Moisture in the hopper after you put in dry coal indicates flue gases are exiting the stove through the hopper. Most common reasons would be improper adjustment of the combustion fan restrictor plate and or the barometric damper. Either case, CO is a very real hazard. You simply cannot properly adjust a barometric damper without a manometer. Until you get a manometer, tightly cover the barometric damper with aluminum foil. What is the position of your restrictor plate? Oh, is the a mag stoker or a super mag stoker?

Found the information on the restrictor plate in the manual and I'll check when I get back home after work. I'm also going to look for the manometer at the hardware store on the way.

After reviewing the manual again for the first time since purchase, I will also have to admit (both ashamed and embarrassed) that there are other general maintenance tasks that I have skipped but which I will perform. When I had the DVC, man that thing was easy. Clean the fines, clean under the grate, vacuum out the direct vent exhaust pipe, and you were good to go.

This is the manometer that a lot of people here use:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009PAN3C8?keywords=manometer&qid=1454506612&ref_=sr_1_8&sr=8-8

You will need a section of 3/16ths auto brake line, or copper to hook it up to your flue as the provided rubber tubing will melt.

I don't think you'll find the proper manometer at the hardware store, but maybe. You can order one and have it in a few days.

You need one that has the ability to read hundredths of inches of water column.

Many of us use the Dwyer Mark II model 25 but there are others also.

As the others have already stated, you have a draft issue.

And the only way to accurately measure draft is with a manometer.

If you find the time, how about filling out your profile including where you live. As my friend on here states "No one is gonna come steal ya' !!!!! "
And there may be a member here who lives close to you that might be able to assist you.

Rick

Lightning wrote:The manometer is very simple to install and use. It's importance is to measure the amount of negative pressure in the stove. You are getting CO in the house likely because there is a positive pressure condition happening in the fire box. This would cause moisture in the hopper and CO to leak into the living area.

A manometer is cheap and easy to install and a valuable tool for operating any coal appliance. In my opinion, every coal burner should have one.

This definitely describes my symptoms and the manometer is the next step. I appreciate all of the replies and I'm glad I came here first. Very knowledgeable and helpful group. Thanks again. I was really worried about burning that thing again but after reading the responses, I'm confident that I can fix the problem. I'll update after I'm home from work and have the chance to get the manometer (which I will have before lighting it again) and checkoff the maintenance tasks in the manual. I might have questions once I have one but it sounds like it is the next step in resolving the problem.

Lightning wrote:I don't think you'll find the proper manometer at the hardware store, but maybe. You can order one and have it in a few days.

You need one that has the ability to read hundredths of inches of water column.

Many of us use the Dwyer Mark II model 25 but there are others also.

I was afraid of that but thanks for the model suggestion. Thank you for the link SWPaDon. $28.80 on Amazon is much less than I expected to pay. I'll check the hardware store, as its on the way home, but order this if they do not have one. The house will be a bit colder than normal until it arrives but better to be safe.