Hooking up New Ducting to My New Stoker.. Anyone Else?

Got my new stoker up and running. Next is to pump the heat upstairs more efficiently. My stove is right under my living room. So, my goal is to go up and pump heat straight up thru floor register I need to install, and down 30? feet to my bedroom and pump heat into there (other end of house). I have never really done real ducting before I looking at all options. My stove has the outlet on the top of the stove so that part is done. Please post pictures of your setup if you want to help me out! This is fun! I got to shut off the electric baseboards today and I am at 16.5 cents Pkwh!!

Send bed room floor level cold air down to just off the basement floor and the heated air will move up into and from living room to the bed room to replace the cold air that left.

Think circuit/loop...you can not push much heated air any where without moving and equal amount of cold air ahead of it.

I see the duct ring on top of the stove, all I did was put a register directly above the stove and run 6 inch stove pipe to it. I have a ranch,stove in basement with bed rooms 20 ft away, living room where register is stays 72 and bedroom 68 witch is what I like.

Mcgiever is right you need to get cold air down so I cut a register in the spare bedroom and used 1\2 insulation board to make a duct for cold air down.

Basement door from first floor left open is also a must for cold air return and sometimes enough

One other thing,,,,nice install but the Dwyer should be connected before the baro the way it is now your measuring chimney draft but you don't know what the stove is actually drafting at

Good catch! I looked at his other post earlier and didn't catch that. Yeah you need to move that barometric damper up a little and put that manometer Inlet between the stove and the damper. No offense, but the way you have it now is useless.

As stated in previous reply, the way it is now you are just measuring the total chimney draft. You have no idea what the stove draft is.

Ducting to your living room will give you a boost , as the others mentioned I pretty much did the same using natural draft circulation. What I did when I had hand fire and a stoker in my basement (small ranch, full basement) basement stairway on opposite side from bedrooms.
Since the basement was unfinished there was insulation on the basement ceiling/under main floor, I remove most of the insulation this way letting the floors get warm, then I put a 6"x14" register in the floor of our bedroom, a register that I could close keeping cold air upstairs in the summer, and then with the basement and bedroom doors open there was a pretty good circulation. But one think I noticed was when the basement door was open heated air would of course come up and out the top of the doorway and you could feel the cold air below flow down the stairs. So what I did additionally was to put a vent about 12"x32" at the top of the stairway across from the door which is more the center of the living area, then I could close the basement door, by doing this I think I forced more colder air to go down through bedroom register and at same time getting more warm air in the bedroom. It work quite well for us, floor nice and toasty and the bedroom warm. My present setup is Keystoker A-70 add-on furnace ducted into AC/heating system, but still feel the circulation from the residue heat of the A-70

Yes, change the tap location of your Draft Gauge BETWEEN the baro and stove. Like he said, move the bar up a bit, it should be 12-18" from the stove for optimum flow. sometimes its not possible depending on the piping. Once you change your tap hookup for the draft, then you can set your baro accordingly.

Looks like it should work hooking the duct work up to run upstairs. I put a duct pipe on mine too. However, I blocked most of my front vent off so more heat goes thru the external duct. it gets enough radiated heat that doesn't need too much air flow around the stove.

Thanks for the tips! Sounds like I need to shut it off and redo some piping.. Crap!! I wanted the manometer line away from the hopper so I could load it easily.. that baro damper comes off so hard. I will move it and put in a new pipe and drill a new hole for the manometer. I like these ideas posted. Someone said once to not do cold air return from the bedroom because that will make your bedroom cold. I can see this being a little trial and error. I am slightly concerned with the temp of the air coming up into the living room, not sure how hot it will get and it will be touching the laminate flooring.

No need for new pipe.
Just swap baro and pipe locations...

You can just run the tubing along the piping and down the front/side so it's between the baro and stove to keep it out of the way.
You really don't need to move the baro, but probably would function maybe a little better with a straighter piece before it.
However, IF you don't want to shut it down and move it. it'll work fine the way it is.

as for your ductwork, It shouldnt' get that hot for the hot air piping. maybe 120-140 deg air. depending on how far away the stove is to the register opening.

You reaaly need to move the baro.
You'll never get an accurate reading if you install the mano port an inch from the baro inlet...

Someone said once to not do cold air return from the bedroom because that will make your bedroom cold

hogwash, cold air sinks and moves hot air up, its a must, without cold air returning heat will only rise to the ceiling of the basement and virtually none will go upstairs, I have at least 1 register in every upstairs room

I have an 1100 sq ft brick and cinder block ranch in central Maine. I have an old box stove in the basement directly under my cold air return trunk in the center of the ceiling. I bought aluminum angle stock at TSC for the 4 corners of a metal box going from the top of my stove to a rectangular opening I made in the cold air return trunk. The blower from my stove pushes 160-180 degree air into the duct and it slowly heats the upstairs to 70* - 80*, today it's 76* with a window cracked. My home has no insulation, when winter finally arrives I fire up the living room Vigilant and run it low and slow with the basement stove.
If I need to bump up the temps really fast the furnace intake is preheated and runs briefly...very briefly!
It's 33* outside, my floors are warm and so are the occupants.
I can only upload pic's with my phone so bare with me I will as soon as I finish the meatloaf, garlic mashed potato, and green beans!
Ciao for now.

MA

edit: the door to my basement is opposite the stove location wise, without the cool air going down the hot air would not replace it...works every time.

Doby wrote:One other thing,,,,nice install but the Dwyer should be connected before the baro the way it is now your measuring chimney draft but you don't know what the stove is actually drafting at

arcticcatmatt wrote: I wanted the manometer line away from the hopper so I could load it easily.. that baro damper comes off so hard. I will move it and put in a new pipe and drill a new hole for the manometer.

His manometer probe placement is fine. Don't make him move it. I've measured below and above a baro and it's the same reading. The baro limits pressure in the whole stove pipe chimney system, as long as it's at the bottom of the chimney somewhere.

Try measuring it, it's the same no matter where the probe is..

Different story for a manual pipe damper that restricts air flow, then it must be between the stove and MPD.

Dont agree.
If your pulling 1.0 for example, and you open up the damper, your still pulling 1.0 up the chimney.
On the otherhand at the stove you are lessening it by the open damper...

Your statement is actually more true for a manual damper. With a manual damper restricting the flow, only so much can be drawn up the chimney...