Florence HB No.68 - Refurb...
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I would drill 1/8 holes at each end of cracks, line the pot and use it. The cracks have relieved stress and the lining will still let plenty of heat through to preheat over fire air. It probably cracked because of the cooler air being introduced there.
- McGiever
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Sure, this stove could be *propped up* with crutches and made to burn something...
A liner will defeat the *hotblast* feature that is cast into the fire pot design. And this is what makes this stove better than the rest at burning bitumious coal.
A liner will defeat the *hotblast* feature that is cast into the fire pot design. And this is what makes this stove better than the rest at burning bitumious coal.
- Ky Speedracer
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There's a guy we use at work that is a professional welder. He use to do a lot of cast iron weld repair. He still does some exhaust manifold repairs for old cars.
From what he explained the actual welding of cast iron isn't really all that different from welding anything else. The key is to properly preheat and allow it to slowly cool down. He said he has a "kiln" that he uses for this process. He essentially said you grind the cracks completely out and then weld it back together.
My knowledge of welding is very basic. I have taught myself how to weld with a small mig welder, but that is the extent of my expertise.
At this point I don't know what I have to lose by letting him try...what's the worst that can happen?? It cracks again???
From what he explained the actual welding of cast iron isn't really all that different from welding anything else. The key is to properly preheat and allow it to slowly cool down. He said he has a "kiln" that he uses for this process. He essentially said you grind the cracks completely out and then weld it back together.
My knowledge of welding is very basic. I have taught myself how to weld with a small mig welder, but that is the extent of my expertise.
At this point I don't know what I have to lose by letting him try...what's the worst that can happen?? It cracks again???
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A lined pot still gets plenty hot and will do a better job with the coke stage of the burn which is about 70 percent of the heat value.McGiever wrote:A liner will defeat the *hotblast* feature that is cast into the fire pot design. And this is what makes this stove better than the rest at burning bitumious coal.
- McGiever
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This thread should of been located over in the Bituminous Coal Section.
Oh, yes, you are correct, it would work...
These Hotblast stoves could burn any grade bit coal very well due to it's unique pre-heated air injection process.Even the *slack* coal that was garbage from the bottom of the pile...and all without any smoke discharge.
My reference was not about the heat of the pot being compromised, but that all of the designed air jetting slots and orifices...liner would render those useless and it would never function as a *hotblast* again. You'd end up having a lined pot belly stove that burned pretty good and even have little smoke if you managed the air constantly and added small amounts of coal very often all the time .
Oh, yes, you are correct, it would work...
These Hotblast stoves could burn any grade bit coal very well due to it's unique pre-heated air injection process.Even the *slack* coal that was garbage from the bottom of the pile...and all without any smoke discharge.
My reference was not about the heat of the pot being compromised, but that all of the designed air jetting slots and orifices...liner would render those useless and it would never function as a *hotblast* again. You'd end up having a lined pot belly stove that burned pretty good and even have little smoke if you managed the air constantly and added small amounts of coal very often all the time .
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If you look at the pictures of the pot there is only one large opening at the top of the pot for over fire air. The slots do nothing. Soon clog with ash anyway.
- McGiever
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I see now. Got my Hotblast and Airblast stove designs crossed. This has a single channel and it's external of pot...different animal. Thanksfranco b wrote:If you look at the pictures of the pot there is only one large opening at the top of the pot for over fire air. The slots do nothing. Soon clog with ash anyway.
- Ky Speedracer
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I'm going to show my ignorance here;franco b wrote:I would drill 1/8 holes at each end of cracks, line the pot and use it. The cracks have relieved stress and the lining will still let plenty of heat through to preheat over fire air. It probably cracked because of the cooler air being introduced there.
When you say "line the pot and use it", are you suggesting that I
a) make a complete "fire brick" type liner?
b) drill the end of the crack and then smear in some refractory cement caulk?
c) some other method of lining?
Thanks!
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Drill the holes and nothing else. It will keep the crack from spreading. By cracking it has relieved the stress, so don't do anything that might cause more stress. When the pot gets hot that crack will move a bit. the holes keep it from spreading.
Yes a shaped brick or poured refractory liner one inch thick. If poured perhaps some scoring all the way through to simulate bricks and provide room for some movement. That will relieve any further stress on the pot but still keep it plenty hot for the hot blast air. The outside of the pot will not be as hot as before and will radiate that much less heat, maybe 5 or 600 degrees instead of 700, but will be far better at keeping a low fire. Keeping a hotter fire in the fire pot by not letting the heat escape so fast will burn more CO as well.
Investigate those slots in the fire pot and see if they are open at the bottom to the ash pit. If they are I would want to preserve that function.
Yes a shaped brick or poured refractory liner one inch thick. If poured perhaps some scoring all the way through to simulate bricks and provide room for some movement. That will relieve any further stress on the pot but still keep it plenty hot for the hot blast air. The outside of the pot will not be as hot as before and will radiate that much less heat, maybe 5 or 600 degrees instead of 700, but will be far better at keeping a low fire. Keeping a hotter fire in the fire pot by not letting the heat escape so fast will burn more CO as well.
Investigate those slots in the fire pot and see if they are open at the bottom to the ash pit. If they are I would want to preserve that function.
- SWPaDon
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I was going back over the pictures you posted. The very last one is the one I'm referring to specifically. It may just be an optical illusion, but it looks like there is a 'horizontal' crack, and at about the center there appears to be an 'oval' shaped crack going from top to bottom.
If that is in fact what's there, IMO, that firepot isn't safe to use, as that center will fall out at some point.
If that is in fact what's there, IMO, that firepot isn't safe to use, as that center will fall out at some point.
- Ky Speedracer
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I think (the key word here is THINK...) that that area is where an "outer layer" of the cast has flaked off when the firepot warped. When I look at it with some high magnification reading glasses I don't see an actual crack.SWPaDon wrote:I was going back over the pictures you posted. The very last one is the one I'm referring to specifically. It may just be an optical illusion, but it looks like there is a 'horizontal' crack, and at about the center there appears to be an 'oval' shaped crack going from top to bottom.
If that is in fact what's there, IMO, that firepot isn't safe to use, as that center will fall out at some point.
Let's say that it is in fact cracked (and it could be), that area is in fact behind the cast iron outer channel where the "hot blast" control is. So if it were to fall out, I would think that it would just fall into that channel where it is pulling primary air up from the ash pan.
It's a good catch Don. It's definitely something I need to take into consideration.
- wsherrick
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Thanks for pointing this out to me. I really missed it.
I will read through this thoroughly and respond.
William
I will read through this thoroughly and respond.
William
- Ky Speedracer
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Well, I'm finally getting around to putting this stove back together. It's only been 3 years now...
Anyway, I did line the fire-pot with refractory cement. It was cracked in the "hotblast port" where air moved from below the grates up to the secondary burn ring. I drilled the cracks at the ends to hopefully prevent them from continuing. You can see where some of the refractory leaked through the cracked area...
I'm not doing a "cosmetic" restoration on this stove because it's not incredibly ornate. This is more of a taking it apart and checking everything out refurb to make sure it functions... I'm going to use it in a lake house that we have.
I know these stoves are designed to burn bit coal very efficiently, and we will likely burn some in it but, I also want to burn anthracite in it because it is plentifully in the area where the lake house is do to the Amish and Mennonite population in that area.
With that said, what is the best gasketing material to use between the base and the fire-pot? I want to make sure I can control as much of the primary air as possible.
Can I use some hi-temp RTV? Good to *700 ... https://www.permatex.com/products/gasketing/ultra ... ket-maker/
To burn anthracite in this, I plan to remove the secondary air port on the back of the stove and stuff that channel with fiberglass insulation to prevent air from bypassing the bottom of the fire. I'm hoping I can then use the ash pan door control to manage the anthracite burn...
Anyway, I did line the fire-pot with refractory cement. It was cracked in the "hotblast port" where air moved from below the grates up to the secondary burn ring. I drilled the cracks at the ends to hopefully prevent them from continuing. You can see where some of the refractory leaked through the cracked area...
I'm not doing a "cosmetic" restoration on this stove because it's not incredibly ornate. This is more of a taking it apart and checking everything out refurb to make sure it functions... I'm going to use it in a lake house that we have.
I know these stoves are designed to burn bit coal very efficiently, and we will likely burn some in it but, I also want to burn anthracite in it because it is plentifully in the area where the lake house is do to the Amish and Mennonite population in that area.
With that said, what is the best gasketing material to use between the base and the fire-pot? I want to make sure I can control as much of the primary air as possible.
Can I use some hi-temp RTV? Good to *700 ... https://www.permatex.com/products/gasketing/ultra ... ket-maker/
To burn anthracite in this, I plan to remove the secondary air port on the back of the stove and stuff that channel with fiberglass insulation to prevent air from bypassing the bottom of the fire. I'm hoping I can then use the ash pan door control to manage the anthracite burn...
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- Ky Speedracer
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duhhh.... https://www.northlineexpress.com/rutland-stove-ga ... -4781.html
I even have some of this. Old brain issues...
I even have some of this. Old brain issues...
- Ky Speedracer
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The initial burn to season the fire pot and burn off the new paint...
The skirting is not on it yet. It's nickel plated but someone painted it silver. So, I'm cleaning the paint off and polishing...
This is a big stove. And, it's pretty ugly... but, it should work great in a lake cabin.
The skirting is not on it yet. It's nickel plated but someone painted it silver. So, I'm cleaning the paint off and polishing...
This is a big stove. And, it's pretty ugly... but, it should work great in a lake cabin.