Leisure Line Ak- 110 or Keystoker Koker?

 
Brandon and Taylor
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Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Reading

Post by Brandon and Taylor » Wed. Mar. 11, 2015 10:16 am

So will the 110 btus heat my home ?


 
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Post by coalnewbie » Wed. Mar. 11, 2015 10:20 am

e difference in cost would be minimal, but the BTU difference is a lot.
20% is not a lot but that is not the whole story. With 26' of radiating pipe the 180 just scrubs extra heat out of the box for distribution. This stove, like most stoves, does not operate best when flat out. I have run MAX =27 for about three months as the ash tells me it's best there and I can tell you it's just super efficient. The 180 is just a 220 with smaller burners. I am no isayre but I am confident this stove has come close to paying for itself this winter, so now I own the stove for free. As my rice was $160/ton as I buy a TT at a time and nut is 240/T I maximize my rice burning. However, this thread is about 2 other stoves so I will stop now. Dave told me that if I clinch the deal I get a cruise in the LL super yacht. :D LL keeps this as a best kept secret, delete it from the website, tell no one about it.

Show me a best kept secret product and I will show you a company that needs better marketing. This is a great stove B&T, following your PM, I will get the real experts to tell you about it, the genius that designed it.

 
Brandon and Taylor
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Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Reading

Post by Brandon and Taylor » Wed. Mar. 11, 2015 10:49 am

We feel that a 220 would definitely be too large. When we had purchased the Reading we honestly thought it would heat the home. Obviously it didn't when it came to the days that were below 32 and we are now worried about that happening again. We have heard that the size of the blower makes a big difference. The Reading had a 760 cfm blower on it. If it is felt that an ak110 would be efficient at heating the home then that is what we would like to go with. We have not found the price on the ak180 but if it is not much different in price from the 220 then we wouldn't like to spend that much more money on 70k more btu.

 
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Coal Size/Type: Rice,
Other Heating: Heating Oil CH, Toyotomi OM 22

Post by coalnewbie » Wed. Mar. 11, 2015 11:00 am

CN says, overkill is good but more overkill is better. CN also says you get what you pay for unless it's a GM car.

 
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Post by McGiever » Wed. Mar. 11, 2015 11:54 am

B&T, That Reading stove is a "space heater" ... NOT a "furnace".

Even if the fan were bigger... Fans don't generate much heat...Burning more coal generates more heat. Fans are handy to stir the air/heat around.

 
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Post by Brandon and Taylor » Fri. Mar. 13, 2015 5:34 pm

Does anyone know what the register Temps are when using this furnace? We are planning on buying one in the near future.

 
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Post by StokerDon » Fri. Mar. 13, 2015 6:49 pm

Welcome to the forum Brandon and Taylor.

I would think the answer to that question would have more to do with the ducting in your house than the furnace. That being said, the inner part of this type furnace gets up to between 500 and 700 degrees.

-Don


 
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Coal Size/Type: Rice,
Other Heating: Heating Oil CH, Toyotomi OM 22

Post by coalnewbie » Fri. Mar. 13, 2015 7:12 pm

With my AK110 exiting via a 14" round duct the temperatures about 6' along the dust were about 120* with the stove moving along. As pointed out these are curious questions and I fail to see how this information helps you. 14" is best, 12" is OK. So we can talk about LFM (linear feet per minute) but perhaps a good HVAC guy is what you need.

 
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Coal Size/Type: PEA,NUT,STOVE /ANTHRACITE
Other Heating: Ground Source Heat Pump and some Solar

Post by McGiever » Fri. Mar. 13, 2015 10:42 pm

Brandon and Taylor wrote:Does anyone know what the register Temps are when using this furnace? We are planning on buying one in the near future.
The temp is controlled by a fan switch just above where the air exits . It is activated on by the furnace temp being raised high enough to the set-point and then also activated off when the furnace temp has cooled enough to reach the off set-point again. It is fully automatic and will not blow during times when the burner is on only idle. It will be factory set, but could be "tweaked".

140* would be close to the highest temp you may see. And the further down stream the goes the lower the temp gets due to the sheet metal radiating off some heat. No hotter than what you might get from your car's heater.

What is the reason that you ask for this info?

 
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Post by Brandon and Taylor » Sat. Mar. 14, 2015 8:57 am

I just want too make sure this furnace will heat my house as its a lot of money and im removing my oil furnace

 
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Post by Rob R. » Sat. Mar. 14, 2015 9:01 am

Have you done any work to determine the heat load of your home?

 
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Post by Brandon and Taylor » Sat. Mar. 14, 2015 9:06 am

Im not sure what you mean?

 
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Post by titleist1 » Sat. Mar. 14, 2015 9:08 am

Was the oil furnace able to keep up with demand and what is the BTU rating of it?

A coal unit will be different in that the oil furnace heats up quickly to send a periodic blast of hot air into a room to heat it. The coal unit will not heat up as quick, and will send warm air more consistently.

If it was my system, knowing how BTU ratings are, I would be looking for something bigger than '110k btus' for a 2000 sq' house. Or I would have a second hand fed unit on stand by that can be used for additional heat in the coldest times when the 110k can't keep up.

 
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Post by Brandon and Taylor » Sat. Mar. 14, 2015 9:20 am

Oil furnace is 115 k btus and keeps the house nice and warm the house is only 1600 square feet and I have a wood insert in the living room for those supper cold days

 
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Post by Rob R. » Sat. Mar. 14, 2015 9:26 am

Brandon and Taylor wrote:Im not sure what you mean?
I meant that you should do some research to make sure the coal unit you are buying has enough capacity for your home. In a different post you said that a stoker stove with an 85k BTU rating was not up to the task of heating your home. It is possible that it could not generate enough heat, but it is also possible that you just couldn't get the heat to go where it was needed. I'm thinking it was a distribution problem, but it pays to make sure before you purchase.

As far as I know, the 110 figure on the AK110 is an input value...not net output. Take a closer look at the tag on the oil unit and see if it has GROSS and NET output figures.

Does 1600 sq. ft include the basement?


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