Alaska Cast Console 2
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- Joined: Sun. Sep. 09, 2007 9:38 pm
im looking to buy one of theses units used from someone , is there anything I should look for ,they said it 72000 BTU is that right , how good of a stove is it , im uprading from a old franco belge need info asap thanks
- CoalHeat
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- Joined: Sat. Feb. 10, 2007 9:48 pm
- Location: Stillwater, New Jersey
- Stoker Coal Boiler: 1959 EFM 350
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Harman Magnafire Mark I
- Baseburners & Antiques: Sears Signal Oak 15 & Andes Kitchen Range
- Coal Size/Type: Rice and Chestnut
- Other Heating: Fisher Fireplace Insert
So far, so good with mine.
- coalstoves
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- Joined: Fri. Feb. 23, 2007 7:37 pm
- Location: Mt.Carmel Pa. Located on The Western Middle Anthracite Field
Try to get it for a grand or less $900 if its nice $600 if it looks used hard
A real nice one just gone over like the above as high as $1200
A real nice one just gone over like the above as high as $1200
- CoalHeat
- Member
- Posts: 8862
- Joined: Sat. Feb. 10, 2007 9:48 pm
- Location: Stillwater, New Jersey
- Stoker Coal Boiler: 1959 EFM 350
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Harman Magnafire Mark I
- Baseburners & Antiques: Sears Signal Oak 15 & Andes Kitchen Range
- Coal Size/Type: Rice and Chestnut
- Other Heating: Fisher Fireplace Insert
Thanks. Wanna buy it??coalstoves wrote:Try to get it for a grand or less $900 if its nice $600 if it looks used hard
A real nice one just gone over like the above as high as $1200
Only kidding, I don't have time to rehab another one to replace it right now.
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- Location: Berwick, PA and Ormand Beach FL
To check the BTU output measure the width of the grate, for the 72,000 net BTU unit should be around 6.5" across. The 3.5" across units are only 38,000 BTU net.
Happy hunting, let us know how it works out.
Happy hunting, let us know how it works out.
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- Joined: Sun. Sep. 09, 2007 9:38 pm
just got home from looking at it , very good condition no rust at all , looks like a showroom demo, the broshure and books it comes with says 72,500 BTU , the question I have is the blower on it , are they adjustable speed or only one speed, there are two boxes on the side one has a clear witsh knob on it and there I like a increse and decrease emblem on it ,and under neith that one there is a little black fan and another black knob I guess that fan comes on to cool someting down when its running, and there is also a plug tail hanging of that box also whats that for ? I need help and info , will it heat better than my franco belge ? do I stll use my baro on this stove were would you place it right above the stove or put a piece of pipe in there first ?:(
- LsFarm
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- Posts: 7383
- Joined: Sun. Nov. 20, 2005 8:02 pm
- Location: Michigan
- Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 260
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Self-built 'Big Bertha' SS Boiler
- Baseburners & Antiques: Keystone 11, Art Garland
Yes it will heat as well or better than your Franco Belge stove., it is more adjustable so you can keep the house comfortable during warm weather without getting too hot. The stove is a proven design that with a few minor adjustments that forum member Matthaus has figured out, will work as well as a new stoker stove costing more than $2000.
If you can buy this stove for $1000 or less, buy it.. even a little bit more is ok if it is in really nice condition.
Yes you will need to use your barometric damper, it is best to install a section of flue pipe between the stove and the baro. The fan motors usually are able to have a variable speed reostate installed to vary their speed if they don't already have that ability...
If the price is right, buy it.. a stoker is a dream compared to a hand feed.
Greg L.
If you can buy this stove for $1000 or less, buy it.. even a little bit more is ok if it is in really nice condition.
Yes you will need to use your barometric damper, it is best to install a section of flue pipe between the stove and the baro. The fan motors usually are able to have a variable speed reostate installed to vary their speed if they don't already have that ability...
If the price is right, buy it.. a stoker is a dream compared to a hand feed.
Greg L.
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just wodering what those two knob are for and there is a cord pigtail hanging down were u could plug something into it , is it for a reostat or thermostat? im picking it up in the morning just trying to find out some info , thanks guys
- LsFarm
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- Posts: 7383
- Joined: Sun. Nov. 20, 2005 8:02 pm
- Location: Michigan
- Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 260
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Self-built 'Big Bertha' SS Boiler
- Baseburners & Antiques: Keystone 11, Art Garland
PM Matthaus with specific questions he has rehabed several alaskas, and knows the boxes and controls very well.
Greg L.
Matt will probably chime in and post on this topic soon anyway..
greg L
Greg L.
Matt will probably chime in and post on this topic soon anyway..
greg L
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Well I guess I missed the fun.
The rheostats are for the convection blower and the stoker motor (the lower one is stoker and the separate one is convection). The problem with running the stoker motor on the rheostat is that the combustion fan is also run by the same motor and it will not turn fast enough to provide a good fire at low speeds. So my way of doing it with out modifications is to run the stoker at full speed and adjust the stoker stroke to acheive the desired heat output.
Of course the real solution is to remove the plastic squirrel cage from the stoker motor, install an external combustion fan and run the whole thing with a Coal-Trol from the nice folks at Automation correct.
As already suggested, if the stove looks OK and is less than $1000 buy it! You can't go wrong, it will pay for itself in a couple of years and you will be able to sell it for more than you paid if you take care of it.
I left you a message on your phone, call me any time, I can help you get it hooked up. I also have a scanned copy of the manual I can Email you if need be.
Now run out and buy that stove!
The rheostats are for the convection blower and the stoker motor (the lower one is stoker and the separate one is convection). The problem with running the stoker motor on the rheostat is that the combustion fan is also run by the same motor and it will not turn fast enough to provide a good fire at low speeds. So my way of doing it with out modifications is to run the stoker at full speed and adjust the stoker stroke to acheive the desired heat output.
Of course the real solution is to remove the plastic squirrel cage from the stoker motor, install an external combustion fan and run the whole thing with a Coal-Trol from the nice folks at Automation correct.
As already suggested, if the stove looks OK and is less than $1000 buy it! You can't go wrong, it will pay for itself in a couple of years and you will be able to sell it for more than you paid if you take care of it.
I left you a message on your phone, call me any time, I can help you get it hooked up. I also have a scanned copy of the manual I can Email you if need be.
Now run out and buy that stove!
Is that an inside or outside the side rail measurement? Also Matthaus would you be able to send me a copy of that scanned manual? ThanksMatthaus wrote:To check the BTU output measure the width of the grate, for the 72,000 net BTU unit should be around 6.5" across. The 3.5" across units are only 38,000 BTU net.
Happy hunting, let us know how it works out.
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