What Am I Doing Wrong? Too Much Coal Being Used

A Coal stoker furnace or stove controls most operations including automatically feeding the coal. They are quite similar to any conventional oil and gas units and easily operated for extended periods of time. They commonly use rice coal but may use larger sizes like buckwheat. They can be used as primary heat, supplementary heat or have a dual set up with your existing oil/gas furnace.
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CoalHeat
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Stoker Coal Boiler: 1959 EFM 350
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Harman Magnafire Mark I
Baseburners & Antiques: Sears Signal Oak 15 & Andes Kitchen Range
Coal Size/Type: Rice and Chestnut
Other Heating: Fisher Fireplace Insert
Location: Stillwater, New Jersey

Post Fri. Feb. 08, 2008 7:21 pm

leowis1 wrote: When the water is level is equal on both sides, you're good.


If the water is equal on both sides then there would be no draft. It would have to be higher on the side connected to the smoke pipe to indicate draft. Since an accurate measurement is impossible without a properly calibrated instrument, go with the loaner.
Heating a circa 1832 farmhouse with a Harman Magnafire Mark I & a 1959 EFM 350 (heating DHW).
100% Oil Free!
"It's what we learn after we think we know it all that counts."


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Yanche
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Stoker Coal Boiler: Alternate Heating Systems S-130
Coal Size/Type: Anthracite Pea
Location: Sykesville, Maryland

Post Fri. Feb. 08, 2008 9:03 pm

LsFarm wrote:The Dwyer MarkII, model 25 spreads the .o1"wc out over about an inch and half, by tipping the tube on the side. and you can see the amount of draft quite easily.
AND it uses a special fluid which has a specific gravity less than water which expands the scale. Plus other special properties that make it easier to read. Something you can not easily do on your own.
Yanche
Alternate Heating Systems S-130
Stoker Boiler burning Anthracite Pea Coal

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coaledsweat
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Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 260M
Coal Size/Type: Pea
Location: Guilford, Connecticut

Post Fri. Feb. 08, 2008 9:25 pm

A U shaped tube can function as a manometer, but you could note read it due to the very small pressure differential. You need to be able to measure in the hundredths of inches of water column. The difference between .04 and .06 would be almost impossible to see with the naked eye. The incline design will show a very large movement as the liquid moves about 10 times the distance in the tube sideways for a small rise in level.
Nothing is impossible for people who don't have to do it themselves.

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e.alleg
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Stove/Furnace Make: EFM
Stove/Furnace Model: 520
Location: western ny

Post Fri. Feb. 08, 2008 9:46 pm

Use the manometer, but if the thing is installed perfectly level and plumb then the numbers on the unit are pretty close. On a warm calm and humid day the baro will be closed most of the time, on a cold crisp clear or windy day it will be open most of the time. In any case you should be able to put your hand on the pipe above the damper and hold it there for a little bit. Let us know how it goes, I wasted a lot of coal trying to use an antique barometric damper I had laying around. It didn't work and my stack was hotter than heck, now it's warm when the efm is really breathing but not blazing.
Burning coal is definitely worth the extra work involved.
"Good enough" is not good enough.

leowis1
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Post Tue. Feb. 12, 2008 2:26 pm

I just installed the barometric damper. It went pretty easy. I had it set right in the middle at 4 (or .4). Fired up the stoker and watched the swinging gate. It didn't budge. After a few minutes I put my hand on the flue north of the damper. It was scalding hot. I adjusted the weight to 2 (or .2) and it started flapping. I'll go down in a little while and touch the flue again. I hope its only warm.

But I found another concern. When I removed the flue pipe I found a ton of fly ash in the elbow. :shock: I shouldn't be surprised, but I am. There was a build-up at the first turn north and in the elbow of the chimney (where it turns to go into the house). Am I supposed to clean this out every year????????

Maybe I can install a T at the first turn and install a cleanout trap on the south end of the T? What do you guys do? Please tell!

Leo

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Berlin
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Hot Air Coal Stoker Furnace: Will-Burt Combustioneer 77B
Coal Size/Type: Ohio BITUMINOUS pea stoker coal
Location: Buffalo/Adirondacks, NY

Post Tue. Feb. 12, 2008 2:37 pm

yes, u are supposed to clean it out every year. T's are what most are using to allow easy clean out w/ out disassembling pipes.
Burning western Pennsylvania Bituminous in WNY using model 77 stoker furnace. BITUMINOUS equiptment: 2 hand fired stoves of my own design, Many Combustioneer Model 77 stokers, stokermatic furnace, Many Will-Burt stokers, & and Two Iron firemen.

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WNY
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Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Keystoker 90K, Leisure Line Hyfire I
Coal Size/Type: Rice
Stove/Furnace Make: Keystoker, LL & CoalTrol
Stove/Furnace Model: 90K, Hyfire I, VF3000 Soon
Location: Cuba, NY
Contact:

Post Tue. Feb. 12, 2008 2:51 pm

Yes, your springtime maintainance of the stove should include disconnecting the pipe and cleaning it out along with the stove itself, remove coal, clean and lube all motors, fans, stokers, spray some rust inhibitor on the metal, etc....
- Dave
Hyfire I & Keystoker 90K heating an 1890 Victorian
- Amsoil Authorized T1 Certified Dealer

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coal berner
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Stoker Coal Boiler: 1986 Electric Furnace Man 520 DF
Stove/Furnace Make: Electric Furnace Man
Stove/Furnace Model: DF520
Location: Pottsville PA. Schuylkill County PA. The Hart Of Anthracite Coal Country.

Post Tue. Feb. 12, 2008 3:02 pm

Yanche wrote:
LsFarm wrote:The Dwyer MarkII, model 25 spreads the .o1"wc out over about an inch and half, by tipping the tube on the side. and you can see the amount of draft quite easily.
AND it uses a special fluid which has a specific gravity less than water which expands the scale. Plus other special properties that make it easier to read. Something you can not easily do on your own.
As Yanche Stated The Fluiid used in Manometer's different gravity weight
Here there are as following Model's and specific gravity weight

Dwyer Mark II #25 27 MM-80 & M-700 Pa Use Red gage oil specific gravity .826).

Dwyer Mark II #26 28 & MM180 Use Blue gage oil specific gravity 1.9).
J.C.

Heating house & water with a 1986 electric furnace man DF520 using buckwheat Anthracite coal


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stoker-man
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Hand Fed Coal Boiler: 1981 efm wcb-24 in use 365 days a year
Coal Size/Type: Anthracite/Chestnut
Other Heating: Hearthstone wood stove
Location: Lehigh Valley, PA

Post Tue. Feb. 12, 2008 8:03 pm

The draft should be 1/100 of an inch of water column. Not very visible. I just tried my boiler, which doesn't have a damper and it reads .15. Your coal boiler should be at .01, quite a bit of difference in draft.
‹(•¿•)›

leowis1
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Post Wed. Feb. 13, 2008 9:45 am

Until I get my hands on a manometer, I just have to guestimate for now. Intuitively, I can see why this works. The room air that's going into the flue via the damper would've been coming from the boiler. Thus more heat stays in the boiler. Although the flue pipe north of the damper is still hot? However, I'm not really sure if is a good measurement.

Secondly, my gaurdian angel Stoker-Man informs me that the barometric damper should be .04. I had to set the damper at .02 for the door to move. Could the buildup of flyash in the elbow effect this? I suppose it would.

Much appreciation.

Leo

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coaledsweat
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Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 260M
Coal Size/Type: Pea
Location: Guilford, Connecticut

Post Wed. Feb. 13, 2008 11:30 am

leowis1 wrote:Could the buildup of flyash in the elbow effect this? I suppose it would.


It would reduce the draft. The reduced draft would reduce the baro's movment. It doesn't take much to screw up a baro's delicate balance. I would pull the weight knob off and add a small washer and try to tune it a little further open. Then recheck the pipe vs. burner temps, you should get some movement. Your stovepipe is too hot, you want that heat to stay in the unit.

.04 is about right.
Nothing is impossible for people who don't have to do it themselves.

leowis1
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Post Wed. Feb. 13, 2008 12:14 pm

When I get home from work today I'll take apart the elbow and clean it out. And then set the baro to 4. I'll write back with an update. Thank you!

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gambler
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Stove/Furnace Make: Leisure Line
Stove/Furnace Model: Pioneer
Location: western Pa

Post Wed. Feb. 13, 2008 12:35 pm

leowis1 wrote:When I get home from work today I'll take apart the elbow and clean it out. And then set the baro to 4. I'll write back with an update. Thank you!


You really need to verify the draft with a manometer.
My baro is set at .02 and my draft is .035 so you can't just go by the scale on the baro.
Take Care and God Bless
Rick

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coalstoves
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Stove/Furnace Make: Harman and Liberty
Stove/Furnace Model: Magnum and Victory 700
Location: Mt.Carmel Pa. Located on The Western Middle Anthracite Field

Post Wed. Feb. 13, 2008 3:35 pm

At a usage rate of 9 tons and being in the dark as you are about the setup and controls I think you would greatly benefit from paying a professional or finding a forum member close by that is familiar with the EFM to come in and set it up properly and give you some instruction . Then tinker around from there .

You are using terms like HOT and SCALDing this is like saying make it salty or sweet very vague when dealing with the exhaust of a fire and there is no need for the Baro to flap constantly if the draft of the chimney is in range you seem to feel it should always be flapping every chimney is different hence the meter or gauge . Spend some money on a proper setup and start to save money, at the rate your going thru coal you will recoup the service call in no time
"No Fuel Like An Old Fuel"

leowis1
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Post Wed. Feb. 13, 2008 3:48 pm

Thank you. I did do just what you said. I personally installed the boiler 18months ago. I paid the guy who I bought it from to come out and look things over. He said that everything looked good. It wasn't until I found this forum that I realized something was amiss.

Is there anybody here who lives in Montgomery County PA?

Thanks.


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