If the water is equal on both sides then there would be no draft. It would have to be higher on the side connected to the smoke pipe to indicate draft. Since an accurate measurement is impossible without a properly calibrated instrument, go with the loaner.leowis1 wrote: When the water is level is equal on both sides, you're good.
What Am I Doing Wrong? Too Much Coal Being Used
- CoalHeat
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- Location: Stillwater, New Jersey
- Stoker Coal Boiler: 1959 EFM 350
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- Coal Size/Type: Rice and Chestnut
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- Yanche
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- Location: Sykesville, Maryland
- Stoker Coal Boiler: Alternate Heating Systems S-130
- Coal Size/Type: Anthracite Pea
AND it uses a special fluid which has a specific gravity less than water which expands the scale. Plus other special properties that make it easier to read. Something you can not easily do on your own.LsFarm wrote:The Dwyer MarkII, model 25 spreads the .o1"wc out over about an inch and half, by tipping the tube on the side. and you can see the amount of draft quite easily.
- coaledsweat
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A U shaped tube can function as a manometer, but you could note read it due to the very small pressure differential. You need to be able to measure in the hundredths of inches of water column. The difference between .04 and .06 would be almost impossible to see with the naked eye. The incline design will show a very large movement as the liquid moves about 10 times the distance in the tube sideways for a small rise in level.
Use the manometer, but if the thing is installed perfectly level and plumb then the numbers on the unit are pretty close. On a warm calm and humid day the baro will be closed most of the time, on a cold crisp clear or windy day it will be open most of the time. In any case you should be able to put your hand on the pipe above the damper and hold it there for a little bit. Let us know how it goes, I wasted a lot of coal trying to use an antique barometric damper I had laying around. It didn't work and my stack was hotter than heck, now it's warm when the efm is really breathing but not blazing.
I just installed the barometric damper. It went pretty easy. I had it set right in the middle at 4 (or .4). Fired up the stoker and watched the swinging gate. It didn't budge. After a few minutes I put my hand on the flue north of the damper. It was scalding hot. I adjusted the weight to 2 (or .2) and it started flapping. I'll go down in a little while and touch the flue again. I hope its only warm.
But I found another concern. When I removed the flue pipe I found a ton of fly ash in the elbow. I shouldn't be surprised, but I am. There was a build-up at the first turn north and in the elbow of the chimney (where it turns to go into the house). Am I supposed to clean this out every year????????
Maybe I can install a T at the first turn and install a cleanout trap on the south end of the T? What do you guys do? Please tell!
Leo
But I found another concern. When I removed the flue pipe I found a ton of fly ash in the elbow. I shouldn't be surprised, but I am. There was a build-up at the first turn north and in the elbow of the chimney (where it turns to go into the house). Am I supposed to clean this out every year????????
Maybe I can install a T at the first turn and install a cleanout trap on the south end of the T? What do you guys do? Please tell!
Leo
- WNY
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Yes, your springtime maintainance of the stove should include disconnecting the pipe and cleaning it out along with the stove itself, remove coal, clean and lube all motors, fans, stokers, spray some rust inhibitor on the metal, etc....
- coal berner
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As Yanche Stated The Fluiid used in Manometer's different gravity weightYanche wrote:AND it uses a special fluid which has a specific gravity less than water which expands the scale. Plus other special properties that make it easier to read. Something you can not easily do on your own.LsFarm wrote:The Dwyer MarkII, model 25 spreads the .o1"wc out over about an inch and half, by tipping the tube on the side. and you can see the amount of draft quite easily.
Here there are as following Model's and specific gravity weight
Dwyer Mark II #25 27 MM-80 & M-700 Pa Use Red gage oil specific gravity .826).
Dwyer Mark II #26 28 & MM180 Use Blue gage oil specific gravity 1.9).
- stoker-man
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The draft should be 1/100 of an inch of water column. Not very visible. I just tried my boiler, which doesn't have a damper and it reads .15. Your coal boiler should be at .01, quite a bit of difference in draft.
Until I get my hands on a manometer, I just have to guestimate for now. Intuitively, I can see why this works. The room air that's going into the flue via the damper would've been coming from the boiler. Thus more heat stays in the boiler. Although the flue pipe north of the damper is still hot? However, I'm not really sure if is a good measurement.
Secondly, my gaurdian angel Stoker-Man informs me that the barometric damper should be .04. I had to set the damper at .02 for the door to move. Could the buildup of flyash in the elbow effect this? I suppose it would.
Much appreciation.
Leo
Secondly, my gaurdian angel Stoker-Man informs me that the barometric damper should be .04. I had to set the damper at .02 for the door to move. Could the buildup of flyash in the elbow effect this? I suppose it would.
Much appreciation.
Leo
- coaledsweat
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It would reduce the draft. The reduced draft would reduce the baro's movment. It doesn't take much to screw up a baro's delicate balance. I would pull the weight knob off and add a small washer and try to tune it a little further open. Then recheck the pipe vs. burner temps, you should get some movement. Your stovepipe is too hot, you want that heat to stay in the unit.leowis1 wrote:Could the buildup of flyash in the elbow effect this? I suppose it would.
.04 is about right.
You really need to verify the draft with a manometer.leowis1 wrote:When I get home from work today I'll take apart the elbow and clean it out. And then set the baro to 4. I'll write back with an update. Thank you!
My baro is set at .02 and my draft is .035 so you can't just go by the scale on the baro.
- coalstoves
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At a usage rate of 9 tons and being in the dark as you are about the setup and controls I think you would greatly benefit from paying a professional or finding a forum member close by that is familiar with the EFM to come in and set it up properly and give you some instruction . Then tinker around from there .
You are using terms like HOT and SCALDing this is like saying make it salty or sweet very vague when dealing with the exhaust of a fire and there is no need for the Baro to flap constantly if the draft of the chimney is in range you seem to feel it should always be flapping every chimney is different hence the meter or gauge . Spend some money on a proper setup and start to save money, at the rate your going thru coal you will recoup the service call in no time
You are using terms like HOT and SCALDing this is like saying make it salty or sweet very vague when dealing with the exhaust of a fire and there is no need for the Baro to flap constantly if the draft of the chimney is in range you seem to feel it should always be flapping every chimney is different hence the meter or gauge . Spend some money on a proper setup and start to save money, at the rate your going thru coal you will recoup the service call in no time
Thank you. I did do just what you said. I personally installed the boiler 18months ago. I paid the guy who I bought it from to come out and look things over. He said that everything looked good. It wasn't until I found this forum that I realized something was amiss.
Is there anybody here who lives in Montgomery County PA?
Thanks.
Is there anybody here who lives in Montgomery County PA?
Thanks.