Magic Heat Reclaimer

A Coal stoker furnace or stove controls most operations including automatically feeding the coal. They are quite similar to any conventional oil and gas units and easily operated for extended periods of time. They commonly use rice coal but may use larger sizes like buckwheat. They can be used as primary heat, supplementary heat or have a dual set up with your existing oil/gas furnace.
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1975gt750
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Posts: 206
Joined: Fri. Oct. 26, 2007 9:41 am
Stoker Coal Boiler: keystoker kaa-2
Coal Size/Type: rice coal / blaschak
Other Heating: pensotti oil boiler with riello 40 burner
Stove/Furnace Make: keystoker
Stove/Furnace Model: kaa-2
Location: new hampshire

Post Wed. Jan. 30, 2008 9:05 pm

whats everybodies Opinion on the heat reclaimer. is it worth the 149.00$ or what . I would be running it on a keystoker kaa-2 and my stack temp on a full fire ranges between 250-275.

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LsFarm
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Joined: Sun. Nov. 20, 2005 8:02 pm
Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 260
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Self-built 'Big Bertha' SS Boiler
Baseburners & Antiques: Keystone 11, Art Garland
Location: Michigan

Post Wed. Jan. 30, 2008 9:12 pm

Is that temp from a magnetic stick-on thermometer or a probe thermometer reading the temp in the middle of the pipe??

If it is the surface thermometer, the temps inside are nearly double, and you will be able to extract lots of heat from the flue pipe... However, how strong is your chimney draft?? Do you have a barometric damper installed and is it open a fair amount most of the time?? I'm not sure how much the 'Magic Heat' will restrict the air flow in the chimney, but it might be an important consideration.

Greg L

.
Burning Pea/Buckwheat through an antique stoker [semi retired SSboiler],
Running an Axeman-Anderson 260M boiler burning Pea, About 150-250#per day
Farming, Fixing, Fabricating and Flying: 'spare time' what's that?

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e.alleg
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Stove/Furnace Make: EFM
Stove/Furnace Model: 520
Location: western ny

Post Thu. Jan. 31, 2008 4:41 pm

I think it takes the heat of the exterior of the pipe, with a good barometric damper you will just be wasting electricity because the pipe won't be overly hot.
Burning coal is definitely worth the extra work involved.
"Good enough" is not good enough.

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Richard S.
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Stoker Coal Boiler: Van Wert VA1200
Coal Size/Type: Buckwheat/Anthracite
Location: NEPA

Post Thu. Jan. 31, 2008 5:05 pm

Firstly, you can touch the flue pipe on my furnace for an extended period of time unless it has been stoking for a few minutes. So there shouldn't be a whole lot of heat there to begin with.

Secondly considering the price tag (which BTW I find excessive) and the electricity its going to use. By the time you recover what you have invested the thing will probably no longer work and/or be all rotted out.

These may make economic sense for a wood stove but I really don't think its suitable for a coal stove.
"The difference between stupidity and genius is that genius has its limits."

- Albert Einstein


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1975gt750
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Posts: 206
Joined: Fri. Oct. 26, 2007 9:41 am
Stoker Coal Boiler: keystoker kaa-2
Coal Size/Type: rice coal / blaschak
Other Heating: pensotti oil boiler with riello 40 burner
Stove/Furnace Make: keystoker
Stove/Furnace Model: kaa-2
Location: new hampshire

Post Thu. Jan. 31, 2008 9:01 pm

i do have a barometric damper and it is open a fingures with most of the time. the temp was taking with a probe type therometer that I drilled into my flue pipe. with barometric damper fully closed my draft is .035-.04. hope this info helps

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CoalHeat
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Joined: Sat. Feb. 10, 2007 9:48 pm
Stoker Coal Boiler: 1959 EFM 350
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Harman Magnafire Mark I
Baseburners & Antiques: Sears Signal Oak 15 & Andes Kitchen Range
Coal Size/Type: Rice and Chestnut
Other Heating: Fisher Fireplace Insert
Location: Stillwater, New Jersey

Post Fri. Feb. 01, 2008 8:12 am

Richard S. wrote:Firstly, you can touch the flue pipe on my furnace for an extended period of time unless it has been stoking for a few minutes. So there shouldn't be a whole lot of heat there to begin with.
Isn't it a boiler? :twisted:

After the baro, the pipes on both stoves are warm, sometimes hot, if freshly loaded (Harman) or on a higher burn (Alaska). If the pipes were really hot something is wrong. The Magic Heat would work on the Harman if I had enough room to install one.
Heating a circa 1832 farmhouse with a Harman Magnafire Mark I & a 1959 EFM 350 (heating DHW).
100% Oil Free!
"It's what we learn after we think we know it all that counts."

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LsFarm
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Posts: 7385
Joined: Sun. Nov. 20, 2005 8:02 pm
Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 260
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Self-built 'Big Bertha' SS Boiler
Baseburners & Antiques: Keystone 11, Art Garland
Location: Michigan

Post Fri. Feb. 01, 2008 1:40 pm

Personally I'd save the money and spend it on coal.. $149.00 plus tax will buy a ton of bulk coal at most breakers, and you won't ever recover enough heat from the Magic heat to save that much coal... Unless your room/basement where your boiler is is too cold, and you are trying to heat it.

You sound like you just barely have enough draft for your current application, I wouldn't add anything in the flue pipe to restrict the airflow.

Try it for a while as it is.. How long have you been running the boiler??

Greg L.
Burning Pea/Buckwheat through an antique stoker [semi retired SSboiler],
Running an Axeman-Anderson 260M boiler burning Pea, About 150-250#per day
Farming, Fixing, Fabricating and Flying: 'spare time' what's that?

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gaw
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Stoker Coal Boiler: Keystoker KA-6
Coal Size/Type: Rice from Schuylkill County
Location: Parts Unknown

Post Sat. Feb. 02, 2008 9:16 am

To gain any heat from the reclaimer it will have to be between the boiler and the baro. To put it after the baro would be an exorcises in futility. After saying all that I agree with the rest that it is most likely not even a break even proposition. As Greg points out you have to SAVE one ton of coal to break even.
Some people make the world happen;
More watch the world happen;
Most wonder what happened.
Its your choice, Which group you want to belong to….

If a man is a fool, you don't train him out of being a fool by sending him to university. You merely turn him into a trained fool, ten times more dangerous.
Desmond Bagley


bksaun
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Posts: 966
Joined: Sat. Oct. 28, 2006 9:24 am
Stoker Coal Boiler: Hybrid, Gentleman Janitor GJ-6RSU/ EFM 700
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Hitzer 503
Coal Size/Type: Pea Stoker/Bit, Pea or Nut Anthracite
Stove/Furnace Make: Hitzer/ EFM-Gentleman Janitor
Stove/Furnace Model: 503 Insert/ 700/GJ-62
Location: Hustonville, Ky

Post Sat. Feb. 02, 2008 9:25 am

I bought a cheap Vogelzang and wish I had not. It only put's out marginal heat and the stove has to be running at 65% or more to get it to turn on.

Like they said, not much of a return.

BK
"Corn Stoves", It is morally wrong to burn something you can make into Whiskey!

BK

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gaw
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Posts: 2612
Joined: Fri. Jan. 26, 2007 2:51 am
Stoker Coal Boiler: Keystoker KA-6
Coal Size/Type: Rice from Schuylkill County
Location: Parts Unknown

Post Sat. Feb. 02, 2008 9:43 am

gaw wrote:To gain any heat from the reclaimer it will have to be between the boiler and the baro. To put it after the baro would be an exorcises in futility. After saying all that I agree with the rest that it is most likely not even a break even proposition. As Greg points out you have to SAVE one ton of coal to break even.
Actually I said that wrong. To be more precise you need to reclaim about 24,916,000 BTUs to pay it off, or if you want maybe 75% of that to be more realistic that is still 18,687,000 BTU's. The heat reclaimer is not saving coal per se it is capturing heat otherwise wasted up the chimney.
Some people make the world happen;
More watch the world happen;
Most wonder what happened.
Its your choice, Which group you want to belong to….

If a man is a fool, you don't train him out of being a fool by sending him to university. You merely turn him into a trained fool, ten times more dangerous.
Desmond Bagley

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mikeandgerry
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Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman-Anderson Anthratube 130-M
Location: North Norwich, NY

Post Tue. Feb. 05, 2008 12:44 am

1975gt750 wrote:whats everybodies Opinion on the heat reclaimer. is it worth the 149.00$ or what . I would be running it on a keystoker kaa-2 and my stack temp on a full fire ranges between 250-275.
I wouldn't bother. It was designed for fuel wasting appliances to begin with. Your stack temps indicate that you are efficient.

But, If you are refering to the one from vogelzang, and you gottahabbit, pm me.

I don't think you need it though.
The essence of freedom is the proper limitation of government.

sauerzbr
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Posts: 52
Joined: Fri. Dec. 07, 2007 5:03 pm
Stove/Furnace Make: Leisure Line
Stove/Furnace Model: Pocono Top Vent
Location: Cherryville, PA

Post Tue. Feb. 05, 2008 7:05 am

I installed a Magic Heat reclaimer on my LL Pocono and it's marginal if it's worth the money. Has to be stoking pretty good until it turns on and if you keep it in the on position, just blows cool air. The key is to put a dimmer/variable switch in place to key down the fan speed, then you get a constant warm low air flow off it. Figured I'd put this in place and do it right but I'd probably not spend the money if I had to do it over again.

spaserg
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Posts: 21
Joined: Thu. Feb. 14, 2008 1:05 pm
Stove/Furnace Make: mark III
Location: New Jersey

Post Thu. Feb. 14, 2008 2:21 pm

I have Magic heat reclaimer in Mark III stove burning wood or coal and I love it.It gives me tons of HOT, really HOT air .It turns on and off auto wich I liked. Otherwise I think heat will be waisted in chimney. No dampers (manual or another).I regulate burning by lover door special knob to let air in.I bought my on Ebay for $75 and I think it's worth it. Also I have fan at back of stove and it's also very good heat flow.Only I have to turn it on and off manually wich is I don't like I wish to connect both of them togeher.Serge.

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