Coalpail.com Forum

Well, I don't know squat about stokers nor new fangled evo's BUT, what I do know gets me to thinkin you're on the right path with your stove set up--plenty of experience here Jeff.

I know this is a coal forum but, Fred and Olpanrider made me do it. I walked out to the shed, and snapped a picture. EVERYTHING in the shed is bone dry, except for the chrome clutch cover on the Harley. It is dripping wet. Edit: Now why would that picture turn upside down???? I give up! No matter what I do, it shows up upside down. Anyone know how to turn that picture right side up?

Lets try a new reply...........

here ya go

grumpy wrote:here ya go

I Thank You Grumpy................

Your welcome..

any thought on whether its worth removing the tri-burner squirrel cage and adding a separate 50cfm blowers? I'm leaning towards doing it.

how abouts dhw coil size? I'm thinking a 18" coil will reach the center of the stove fairly easy. if I put it above the burn just how close should I put it to the burning coal?

Jeff,

On my Alaska Stoker II, I ran the triburner full blast all the time. I would just adjust the amount of feed. It worked fine. The issue of the triburner was when people turned down the rheostat to slow the burn, they would also be slowing that fan. That in turn would lead to incomplete burning of the coal.

Those who would remove the squirrel cage would then just run a separate fan at 100%.

As far as a hot water coil, red Smitty's threads on when he installed the coil. It might work but they usually don't last too long. Then you would also have to add a circulator pump and expansion tank plus a blow off valve. Just more to think about.......

Rick

olpanrider wrote:any thought on whether its worth removing the tri-burner squirrel cage and adding a separate 50cfm blowers? I'm leaning towards doing it.

how abouts dhw coil size? I'm thinking a 18" coil will reach the center of the stove fairly easy. if I put it above the burn just how close should I put it to the burning coal?

Why couldn't you separate the electric. Run the stoker with original controls. Run the squirrel cage fan (24/7) with it's own rheostat. Get the kind of rheostat that plugs into a wall outlet. Then plug the fan into it. I guess you could put the smaller blower, but why?

Thanks Rick

you pretty much confirmed what I was already thinking on the tri-burner.

oliver power wrote:..... Why couldn't you separate the electric. Run the stoker with original controls. Run the squirrel cage fan (24/7) with it's own rheostat. Get the kind of rheostat that plugs into a wall outlet. Then plug the fan into it. I guess you could put the smaller blower, but why?

Oliver,

On the triburner you have 1 motor to control the combustion air and the feed at the same time. It is a vertical shaft where the squirrel cage is attached to the bottom and the gearmotor to control the feed arm is on the top.

Rick

oliver power wrote:

olpanrider wrote:any thought on whether its worth removing the tri-burner squirrel cage and adding a separate 50cfm blowers? I'm leaning towards doing it.

how abouts dhw coil size? I'm thinking a 18" coil will reach the center of the stove fairly easy. if I put it above the burn just how close should I put it to the burning coal?

Why couldn't you separate the electric. Run the stoker with original controls. Run the squirrel cage fan (24/7) with it's own rheostat. Get the kind of rheostat that plugs into a wall outlet. Then plug the fan into it. I guess you could put the smaller blower, but why?

the tri-burner uses the same motor for the coal feed (stoker) and the cumbustion blower. so it only gets cumbustion air when it feed. so by adding a separate blowers and removing the cage from the stoker motor the coal-trol can control the cumbustion and feed separately.

I See........., One motor. Now it makes sense. You talked about adding a motor.

Well I may be slow but I'm steady. Not gonna do the hot water coil for hot water just seems to much hassle after reading problems people have had with it. so if I do anything with the hot water I will use a hot water heat pump and use the Radiant heat from the stove and basement to heat my water.

Hot water heat pump
http://water.nyle.com/residential/

installed a 50cfm blower and removed the squirrel cage from the gear motor so will have full time combustion blower and added the coaltrol unit. left the 10" cold air return opening open and just stuck the 6" convection pipe up into it. figured that way the cold air return would pickup some of the radiant heat being lost in the basement. I do want to heat the basement but just enough to take the chill off. put a brake line fitting about 12" up on the flue pipe for my Manometer that I will hang on the wall. also installed a Barometric damper I will set at .04 IWC. had a 80-90 snapdisc im gonna put on the convection pipe to kick on the Propane furnace blower when the stove starts to blow heat from the convection blower. don't know if a 80-90 degree (blower on at 90 off at 80) will be the correct heat range but its what I got to start with.

any input will be helpful Thanks.