Unburned Coal...I Know...
- Carbon12
- Member
- Posts: 2226
- Joined: Tue. Oct. 11, 2011 6:53 pm
- Location: Harrisburg, PA
- Stoker Coal Boiler: Keystoker KA-6
- Coal Size/Type: Rice/Anthracite
- Other Heating: Heat Pump/Forced Hot Air Oil Furnace
Actually, I just read the keystoker direct vent manual. It calls for a barometric damper ??? Do you have one?
- Lightning
- Site Moderator
- Posts: 14669
- Joined: Wed. Nov. 16, 2011 9:51 am
- Location: Olean, NY
- Stoker Coal Boiler: Modified AA 130
- Coal Size/Type: Pea Size - Anthracite
That's cool man.. I think the original poster was wondering if this had any merit.Carbon12 wrote:Sorry if I went off topic. Many of us have been embroiled in the MPD vs. Baro battle all season. It was a lame attempt at humor. My bad,.....as they say
Lightning wrote:Correct me if I'm wrong but I would think that there is a delicate balance between enough combustion air and too much combustion air that would help burn more of the coal, but also be counter productive since that extra air if excessive , would carry heat out the chimney before the stove could absorb most of it.
How's that for a run on sentence!!!
- Carbon12
- Member
- Posts: 2226
- Joined: Tue. Oct. 11, 2011 6:53 pm
- Location: Harrisburg, PA
- Stoker Coal Boiler: Keystoker KA-6
- Coal Size/Type: Rice/Anthracite
- Other Heating: Heat Pump/Forced Hot Air Oil Furnace
Elsewhere in the direct vent manual it states no barometric damper is required. Which is it???
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- Posts: 83
- Joined: Sun. Oct. 14, 2012 7:47 pm
- Location: central ny
i believe if you have dv no baro is required.
all the new d.v.'s shipped the last 2 or 3 weeks now have an integral barometric damper.Carbon12 wrote:Actually, I just read the keystoker direct vent manual. It calls for a barometric damper ??? Do you have one?
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- Location: central ny
the pic was taken as soon as I got home so I don't know if it was calling for heat but that's not idle. the flame was about 6 inches tall so im assuming it was calling for heat
- 2001Sierra
- Member
- Posts: 2211
- Joined: Wed. May. 20, 2009 8:09 am
- Location: Wynantskill NY, 10 miles from Albany
- Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Keystoker 90 Chimney vent
- Coal Size/Type: Rice
- Other Heating: Buderus Oil Boiler 3115-34
The last picture of your ashes looked terrible. I would really consider another coal source, as long as you have followed Keystoker's recommendations. Keep us informed, we will get it figured out.
- tomcat
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- Posts: 22
- Joined: Sat. Nov. 30, 2013 10:47 pm
- Location: Pine Grove , PA
- Stoker Coal Boiler: k-4 keystoker
- Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: old magnum
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: 400 warm morning, sf250
- Hand Fed Coal Furnace: sf3500
- Coal Size/Type: rice and buck mix, stove, nut
The pictures of your ash shows unburned rock not coal. Coal veins have top and bottom rock on the outside of the coal. Strip mine use machine to extract the coal. Mixing of rock and coal is common from strip mines. The breakers don't always clean out all of that rock depending on there process efficiency.
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- Location: central ny
When I break the black pieces up they're shiny like coal.
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- Joined: Thu. Apr. 14, 2011 12:13 pm
- Location: Springville, NY
- Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Keystoker Koker controlled with CoalTrol
From past posts through the years, others have tried to re-burn this "unburnt" coal and have found it doesn't burn. Even though it doesn't turn to dust, I believe the volatiles are still burnt off the coal, so it does give up its "pent up" energy even though it doesn't look like it. It is just the nature of the beast when you are running a stoker.
- McGiever
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- Joined: Sun. May. 02, 2010 11:26 pm
- Location: Junction of PA-OH-WV
- Stoker Coal Boiler: AXEMAN-ANDERSON 130 "1959"
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: BUCKET A DAY water heater
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Warm Morning 414A
- Coal Size/Type: PEA,NUT,STOVE /ANTHRACITE
- Other Heating: Ground Source Heat Pump and some Solar
Talk to Keystoker or your buddy and find out how deep the coal-bed is/needs to be as it travels down the grate.
It is no different on a stoker grate than in a hand fired...full combustion happens easier with proper coal bed thickness. Too thin and it will struggle. Is your Koker sitting level? Some have jacked their stoves up some on one end to help thickness. Don't know about your Koker 160, but the A's and bigger have an adjustment for coal bed thickness.
If you change one, either air or feed or thickness, you will need to change the others for best burn.
It is no different on a stoker grate than in a hand fired...full combustion happens easier with proper coal bed thickness. Too thin and it will struggle. Is your Koker sitting level? Some have jacked their stoves up some on one end to help thickness. Don't know about your Koker 160, but the A's and bigger have an adjustment for coal bed thickness.
If you change one, either air or feed or thickness, you will need to change the others for best burn.
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- Location: central ny
I spoke to a well known dealer here in central New York and she suggested trying they're coal. Its blacshak that is oiledand seems to be the best around. Also she said the blacshak and reading coal seem to produce more fines than previous years, possibly blocking the gates faster. She also suggested backing off the t-stat to reduce clunkers,which I don't seem to have a lot of, to possibly prevent the coal bed from getting too "thick".