Omg Now What Am I Going to Do?

Carbon12 · Post by **Carbon12** » Sat. Feb. 01, 2014 5:00 pm

Might as well bite the bullet and replace the entire length. You can probably hire a backhoe pretty cheap this time of year.

SWPaDon · Post by **SWPaDon** » Sat. Feb. 01, 2014 5:42 pm

Maybe I'm off base here, but, if the Pex is already inside the black sewer pipe, can't you just slide new Pex thru the sewer pipe?

GaryFerg · Post by **GaryFerg** » Sat. Feb. 01, 2014 5:48 pm

SWPaDon wrote:Maybe I'm off base here, but, if the Pex is already inside the black sewer pipe, can't you just slide new Pex thru the sewer pipe?

they are kinda tied together and the sewer pipe crushes from being buries so I don't think it will pull through but If it did it would be a nice solution

Post by **Lightning** » Sat. Feb. 01, 2014 11:35 pm

GaryFerg wrote:they are kinda tied together and the sewer pipe crushes from being buries so I don't think it will pull through but If it did it would be a nice solution

"kinda tied" doesn't compute.. Can you slide it thru? Why not just try it...

McGiever · Post by **McGiever** » Sun. Feb. 02, 2014 7:56 am

I did something similar once...this did the trick for me...
Splice new onto old w/ apiece of solid rod push half inside both tubes (internal splice coupling) drill 2 holes, 1 thru both halves and tap shear pin in drilled holes. (need not be brass) And file or grind flush.
Lube it up w/ some cable pulling lube and tug/winch her in...lubeing it the whole time while it's being tugged is highly advised.
Yeah, what do you have to lose?

Lu47Dan · Post by **Lu47Dan** » Sun. Feb. 02, 2014 9:34 am

Another thing to add to the the system is a low boiler water cut-off switch.
Low Water Cutoff Switch (Low Voltage)
http://www.pexsupply.com/Taco-LTA0243S-2-Electron ... 7AodJkcA2g
Low Water Cutoff Switch (120VAC)
http://www.pexsupply.com/Taco-LTA1203S-2-Electron ... -Off-Water
You can add the 120VAC switch into the stoker system to shut off the stoker if the water level drops to a certain point.
The switch can be installed in the supply side piping 12" above the boiler jacket.
It will open and shut the system down to prevent the stoker from feeding once the water level reaches that point.
If you wire it to the stoker, I would run the stoker through a relay to keep the electrical load down on the switch itself.
I have one on my oil boiler for the shop, as it runs in a room outside the main shop. I had it active once when the Pressure Relief tripped and drained my feed tank. and system.
It saved the boiler from boiling out.
If I remember the wiring right a beacon can be added to notify you that the boiler is down.
Dan.

GaryFerg · Post by **GaryFerg** » Sun. Feb. 02, 2014 9:50 am

McGiever wrote:I did something similar once...this did the trick for me...
Splice new onto old w/ apiece of solid rod push half inside both tubes (internal splice coupling) drill 2 holes, 1 thru both halves and tap shear pin in drilled holes. (need not be brass) And file or grind flush.
Lube it up w/ some cable pulling lube and tug/winch her in...lubeing it the whole time while it's being tugged is highly advised.
Yeah, what do you have to lose?

while in place?

GaryFerg · Post by **GaryFerg** » Sun. Feb. 02, 2014 9:51 am

Lu47Dan wrote:Another thing to add to the the system is a low boiler water cut-off switch.
Low Water Cutoff Switch (Low Voltage)
http://www.pexsupply.com/Taco-LTA0243S-2-Electron ... 7AodJkcA2g
Low Water Cutoff Switch (120VAC)
http://www.pexsupply.com/Taco-LTA1203S-2-Electron ... -Off-Water
You can add the 120VAC switch into the stoker system to shut off the stoker if the water level drops to a certain point.
The switch can be installed in the supply side piping 12" above the boiler jacket.
It will open and shut the system down to prevent the stoker from feeding once the water level reaches that point.
If you wire it to the stoker, I would run the stoker through a relay to keep the electrical load down on the switch itself.
I have one on my oil boiler for the shop, as it runs in a room outside the main shop. I had it active once when the Pressure Relief tripped and drained my feed tank. and system.
It saved the boiler from boiling out.
If I remember the wiring right a beacon can be added to notify you that the boiler is down.
Dan.

its a hand feed boiler don't see how that would help other then the warning light

GaryFerg · Post by **GaryFerg** » Sun. Feb. 02, 2014 10:20 am

home depot doesn't have 1 inch pex pipe in stock here locally by me so I cant even do a patch job! I will have to order it and wait.

Carbon12 · Post by **Carbon12** » Sun. Feb. 02, 2014 10:32 am

Do they carry anything 1 inch that will work in a pinch until you can get the PEX?

Lu47Dan · Post by **Lu47Dan** » Sun. Feb. 02, 2014 11:24 am

GaryFerg wrote:
Lu47Dan wrote:Another thing to add to the the system is a low boiler water cut-off switch.
Low Water Cutoff Switch (Low Voltage)
http://www.pexsupply.com/Taco-LTA0243S-2-Electron ... 7AodJkcA2g
Low Water Cutoff Switch (120VAC)
http://www.pexsupply.com/Taco-LTA1203S-2-Electron ... -Off-Water
You can add the 120VAC switch into the stoker system to shut off the stoker if the water level drops to a certain point.
The switch can be installed in the supply side piping 12" above the boiler jacket.
It will open and shut the system down to prevent the stoker from feeding once the water level reaches that point.
If you wire it to the stoker, I would run the stoker through a relay to keep the electrical load down on the switch itself.
I have one on my oil boiler for the shop, as it runs in a room outside the main shop. I had it active once when the Pressure Relief tripped and drained my feed tank. and system.
It saved the boiler from boiling out.
If I remember the wiring right a beacon can be added to notify you that the boiler is down.
Dan.
its a hand feed boiler don't see how that would help other then the warning light

Missed that.

Post by **Lightning** » Sun. Feb. 02, 2014 11:34 am

Seems like it may have over fired and didn't have a way to move heat away from it..

McGiever · Post by **McGiever** » Sun. Feb. 02, 2014 12:35 pm

GaryFerg wrote:
McGiever wrote:I did something similar once...this did the trick for me...
Splice new onto old w/ apiece of solid rod push half inside both tubes (internal splice coupling) drill 2 holes, 1 thru both halves and tap shear pin in drilled holes. (need not be brass) And file or grind flush.
Lube it up w/ some cable pulling lube and tug/winch her in...lubeing it the whole time while it's being tugged is highly advised.
Yeah, what do you have to lose?
while in place?

Yes, pull the new in while using the old to pull on...all while still buried underground.
Obviously you need to attach to good sound pipe for the connection.
I'm only saying this for replacing the same size tube...not to install larger.
Other than what might of been used for tying, this will slide right in during the old being removed.

Several rope hitches and a cable winch may be required on the pulling/tugging end.

And leave some extra PEX coiled for a service loop at each end..

kstills · Post by **kstills** » Mon. Feb. 03, 2014 11:46 am

PEX life expectancy:

http://www.vesbo.com/en/pex_2.asp#1

Products - PE-X PIPES

Permissible Operating Pressure
Projected Service Life

The following table provides more detailed information with regards to the permissible pressure of various temperatures. These values are derived from the hoop stress chart and formula. Under normal working pressures and conditions, the average service life of Vesbo PE-X pipes is projected to be 50 years or more. A PN 20 hot water pipe, transporting water at a temperature of 95oC can last for more than 50 years under normal conditions with an operating pressure of 8.2 Bars.

GaryFerg · Post by **GaryFerg** » Wed. Feb. 05, 2014 11:57 pm

Ok this is what was explained to me . I lost all water because boiler overheated. The water in the pipe was gone so atmospheric pressure collapsed the pipe because of the vacuum much like when you heat a tin can and it collapses. I need to add a water supply to my boiler to prevent this and also a dump zone.