How to Wire the Rheostat to the Powervent

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coldfish38
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Post by coldfish38 » Thu. Oct. 31, 2013 5:53 pm

I'm not an electrician and this is my first stove install but I did wire my whole house and it passed inspection. Help...........

 
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Post by btrowe1 » Thu. Oct. 31, 2013 6:57 pm

Why would you want to wire your power vent to a rheostat?? anything that would interfere with the exhaust gas leaving the stove should not be tampered with, IMO,

Distribution fan yes,

 
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coldfish38
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Post by coldfish38 » Thu. Oct. 31, 2013 7:20 pm

The guy I bought it from had it wired to one so he could control the speed it would vent at. This is my quandry how to get the power vent wired in the first place weather or not it needs a rheostat...

 
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Post by freetown fred » Thu. Oct. 31, 2013 7:29 pm

cf, go to top right search box & put wiring power vent--hit search--see if anything helps ya out

 
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Post by franco b » Thu. Oct. 31, 2013 7:30 pm

coldfish38 wrote:The guy I bought it from had it wired to one so he could control the speed it would vent at. This is my quandry how to get the power vent wired in the first place weather or not it needs a rheostat...
The motor is probably not compatible with a rheostat and might overheat or fail. Control the draft with a barometric damper.


 
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VigIIPeaBurner
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Post by VigIIPeaBurner » Thu. Oct. 31, 2013 7:38 pm

A rheostat, possibly, along with a barometric damper (recommended), is necessary to set the proper over fire draft with the aid of a manometer. I think SWG powervents from LL come with a rheostat. The speed of the powervent fan supplies the draw (draft) on the stove's exhaust system. Draft levels must be properly set over the fire and before the barometric damper to assure the efficient use of coal and transfer of heat from the stove/furnace/boiler.

 
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coldfish38
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Post by coldfish38 » Thu. Oct. 31, 2013 7:55 pm

Just let the motor run and ajust the weight on the baro so its just pulling air a little ?....

 
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VigIIPeaBurner
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Post by VigIIPeaBurner » Thu. Oct. 31, 2013 9:12 pm

coldfish38 wrote:Just let the motor run and ajust the weight on the baro so its just pulling air a little ?....
Ther are approximate draft numbers on most baro's weight flang to help set the baro to control draft. It is a guesstimate. You need a manometer to know what the actual draft is. Too little draft could be dangerous and too much is wasteful.

 
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Post by Rick 386 » Thu. Oct. 31, 2013 9:29 pm

VigIIPeaBurner wrote:A rheostat, possibly, along with a barometric damper (recommended), is necessary to set the proper over fire draft with the aid of a manometer. I think SWG powervents from LL come with a rheostat. The speed of the powervent fan supplies the draw (draft) on the stove's exhaust system. Draft levels must be properly set over the fire and before the barometric damper to assure the efficient use of coal and transfer of heat from the stove/furnace/boiler.
Correctomundo VigIIPeaBurner.

Coldfish,

The power vent NEEDS A RHEOSTAT. That is why LL supplies one with the units.

As mentioned it must be used in conjunction with a baro to dial it in. We have had members here who tried to run it full bore without the rheostat and it led to hopper fires due to too much draft. And it also sucked the heat right out of the stove and burned way too much coal.

You need a fan control type rheostat. A regular light dimmer switch will not work.

Rick

 
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Post by imcloud1 » Sun. Nov. 03, 2013 6:48 pm

I use this fan control to control my draft
http://www.amazon.com/Electronics-Variable-Speed- ... ed+control
and I have one of these installed to keep an eye on the draft settings http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009PAN3C8/ref=o ... UTF8&psc=1

and one of these to watch the flue temps http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003R76AHK/ref=o ... UTF8&psc=1

But before I wired my furnace in with a firomatic and all the fancy switches I used to use http://www.amazon.com/In-line-Speed-Controller-Bo ... +fan+speed it worked for years, I still have it somewhere and I have seen a few stoves with them on it...

I also use a field control draft regulator, but when you run your Power venter at full speed, it 1 makes a lot of noise and vibration {or more rather}, 2 sucks warm air from your house to the outside, 3 wears the power venter out sooner, 4 uses more electricity, and 5 makes controlling the draft a little tougher... So the field power venters don't mind being slowed down in my experience and the switches last a long time so why not use them?


 
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Post by nuthcuntrynut » Sun. Nov. 03, 2013 7:15 pm

kb makes the one you are looking for its a solid state motor control model KBWC, 13K, 2.5amps @ 120volts
leisure line uses about the same one, theirs rated at 3amps. My experience is to adjust the trim pot on the side, as the vent teens to ramp up sometimes a bit on its own. heres a pix

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Post by nuthcuntrynut » Sun. Nov. 03, 2013 7:25 pm

heres mine in operation. mine is set @ about 40%, maybe a smidgen higher, I run mine -.05 @flue, -.02"wc over fire, sometimes it runs at -.015"wc over fire. but love the ability to control draft before barometric damper, keeps the noise down of the fan.

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Post by Snowhiteanabby » Fri. Nov. 22, 2019 8:16 pm

I know this thread is a few years old but i just got a stove and powervent ect only that is confusing me is how to wire the Kb fan switch, any advise please.

 
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Post by McGiever » Fri. Nov. 22, 2019 10:03 pm

Snowhiteanabby wrote:
Fri. Nov. 22, 2019 8:16 pm
I know this thread is a few years old but i just got a stove and powervent ect only that is confusing me is how to wire the Kb fan switch, any advise please.
With POWER OFF, Intercept the black hot wire going to the PV fan motor at a wire splice...open that splice so now you have 2 wires broken..best to do the following inside a permanently mounted metal electric switch box....
add in the KB in by splicing 1 KB wire to the motor wire...and 1 KB wire to the hot/line wire...green wire splices with other ground wires with a tail extended and attached to metal switch box...done.

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