Help on Pocono Install

toolmaker
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Hand Fed Coal Stove: Hitzer 50-93
Coal Size/Type: nut & rice anthracite
Other Heating: pocono w/powervent
Location: Monticello, NY

Post Wed. Oct. 23, 2013 1:54 pm

Hello,

I have a used Pocono top vent that I am trying to figure out how to install.

It is being powervented out a double hung window about six feet behind the stove.

I have the swg 4hds powervent, and I purchased the 6RC barometer, a manometer, some pipe, a tee, some wonderboard and stainless sheet for the window hole. I think I need the powervent oil and an elbow.

I am very confused as to how to install this. I am just concentrating on the physical layout for now.

Does the baro go in line just before the powervent, or should it come off a tee? From the manual, it seems that it should preferably be in a horizontal area, and certainly not at the flue outlet.

So does this sound right: From the stove back, the Pocono flue collar to straight vertical pipe, to elbow, to tee for ash trap, to horizontal pipe, to baro completely enclosed inline, directly into powervent, through the wonderboard, installed with the mounting plate on the inside of the room (with red silicone sealer)?

Or does the baro need to be able to let in cold air and therefore use a tee like on my oil furnace?

Thanks for any help.
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franco b
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Post Wed. Oct. 23, 2013 3:37 pm

I think it sounds right. You can use a tee for the baro or just cut a hole and use the supplied collar. Assemble the collar and holding it on the pipe mark the circle about an inch smaller and cut the hole. Any gaps seal with furnace cement.

Can't help with the power vent because I have never used that model, but should be pretty straight forward.

You are aware that having a car in there is a no no? Could be OK in terms of safety if the stove has it's own fresh air supply and not draw from inside the garage.

toolmaker
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Hand Fed Coal Stove: Hitzer 50-93
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Post Wed. Oct. 23, 2013 6:05 pm

Thanks. I'll look over the baro to try to figure out what you mean about cutting.

There are no cars in the garage for the winter. In fact, I picked up a pair of galvanized garbage cans for outside where I can store my solvents. There should be no fumes whatsoever.

franco b
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Post Wed. Oct. 23, 2013 9:38 pm

If the baro did not come with a mounting collar used to cut a hole in the pipe and strap on collar to mount baro then you will have to use a tee.

toolmaker
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Hand Fed Coal Stove: Hitzer 50-93
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Location: Monticello, NY

Post Sun. Nov. 03, 2013 4:46 pm

Before I seal it up, does this look correct?

From the manual, it seems there should be another cover plate on the inside of the window, but I'm not sure.

There are some rags stuffed in there to stop the draft meanwhile.

Thanks.
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WNY
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Post Sun. Nov. 03, 2013 4:58 pm

THe baro can be mounted in a vertical or horizontal position between your power vent and stove. You can use the TEE that you have.
Just make sure you put the screw weight on the proper side depending on if you mount it in a vertical or horizontal position.
The baro damper is open to the room so it can pull air in and limit the draft on the stove by opening/closing. it may not change much, since the power vent maintains a pretty consistent draft on the stove.

The power vent mounting looks pretty good.

toolmaker
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Hand Fed Coal Stove: Hitzer 50-93
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Location: Monticello, NY

Post Sun. Nov. 03, 2013 5:05 pm

WNY wrote:THe baro can be mounted in a vertical or horizontal position between your power vent and stove. You can use the TEE that you have.
Just make sure you put the screw weight on the proper side depending on if you mount it in a vertical or horizontal position.
The baro damper is open to the room so it can pull air in and limit the draft on the stove by opening/closing. it may not change much, since the power vent if pretty consistent draft on the stove.

The power vent mounting looks pretty good.
Thanks!

The baro is next.

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WNY
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Post Sun. Nov. 03, 2013 5:09 pm

Here's a couple different baro mounting options for you.

Just Installed New Baro This Morning


toolmaker
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Post Sun. Nov. 03, 2013 5:16 pm

Thanks. That helps a lot.

toolmaker
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Post Wed. Nov. 06, 2013 6:43 pm

Piping is in place, but not yet cemented or screwed together. Before doing so I need to figure out how to physically hook up the manometer. If I need to drill holes, I'd rather do it before assembly.

There is caulking in a hole that seemed to be set up for some kind of damper, with numbers on it. Is that where the manometer probe goes? I included a pic.

Thanks for any answers.
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Carbon12
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Post Wed. Nov. 06, 2013 6:53 pm

That looks like some kind of manual pipe damper. Is there a flap valve in that piece of pipe?

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Carbon12
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Post Wed. Nov. 06, 2013 6:53 pm

Manometer goes between stove and barometric damper

toolmaker
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Hand Fed Coal Stove: Hitzer 50-93
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Location: Monticello, NY

Post Wed. Nov. 06, 2013 8:55 pm

Carbon12 wrote:That looks like some kind of manual pipe damper. Is there a flap valve in that piece of pipe?
No, I looked. I don't know what it is about, but I'll refresh the caulk.

Thanks.

toolmaker
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Posts: 94
Joined: Tue. Aug. 06, 2013 1:09 pm
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Hitzer 50-93
Coal Size/Type: nut & rice anthracite
Other Heating: pocono w/powervent
Location: Monticello, NY

Post Wed. Nov. 06, 2013 9:00 pm

Carbon12 wrote:Manometer goes between stove and barometric damper
Thanks.

Then I'll move the baro to right in front of the powervent. That will give a shorter run and hopefully slightly cooler working conditions for the hose.

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Carbon12
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Post Wed. Nov. 06, 2013 9:25 pm

Unless specified by power venter manufacturer, baro damper should be as close to the stove as possible. Not necessary to leave manometer in smoke pipe permanently. It is fun though! :D


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