New Here, Help! Alaska Kodiak Stoker II??

 
klotzy9
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Post by klotzy9 » Thu. Feb. 21, 2013 11:15 am

Hey guy and gals,

Just purchased a stove from a friend of a friend for 100.00 bucks. good deal?? The stove is not in the best shape, but I believe it should do the trick. I think it is an Alaska Kodiak Stoker II, so says the tag on the back of the stove. I did a little research but info is hard to find on this particular stove. It almost looks like their modern Cast Console II or III model rather than the Kodiak. I do have a few questions and from looking around I think I will get some really good answers. Please feel free to chime in as I am new to coal. I would love to hook this bad boy up sooner than later. I am currently using an efel kero stove and its making me go broke. I will upload some pics of the stove and hopefully that will help with some of my questions.
Thanks in advance!
1.Is this stove usable/fixable with a few new seals and some cleaing up?
2 What model is the stove?
3 Estimated BTU's... somewhere I read count the holes in the grate? Well, I have 117.
4. can I use the top vent and tie it into the existing chimney I use for the Kero burner?
5. Do I need new seals? Im assuming I do.
6. will a wire bush and paint do the trick to get rid of the rusted area?
7. How big is the hopper on these stoves, capacity?
8. Is the stove self feeding or gravity fed?
9. I assume the fan has a 265cf blower?
10. Am I missing any parts? any parts @ all? I do have a container of bolts etc. Also, I need an ash pan, it was rusted.

Any other comments are welcome, please help!

thank
Mark

Stove
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Doors

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here is the current efel.
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Last edited by klotzy9 on Thu. Feb. 21, 2013 12:16 pm, edited 1 time in total.


 
klotzy9
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Post by klotzy9 » Thu. Feb. 21, 2013 11:19 am

Sorry guys, some of the pics Downloaded differently. If you can just click on them.

thanks

 
klotzy9
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Post by klotzy9 » Thu. Feb. 21, 2013 11:43 am

Sorry, updated the pics.

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klotzy9
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Post by klotzy9 » Thu. Feb. 21, 2013 12:19 pm

last pic

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xaos
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Hot Air Coal Stoker Furnace: Alaska 140 Auger
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Alaska Stoker 1
Coal Size/Type: Rice

Post by xaos » Thu. Feb. 21, 2013 12:56 pm

Sure looks like all is there.
I'm sure others will chime in, but get all new gaskets, clean her up, a little paint & you will have a great stove.

Make sure you get barometric damper for the exhaust,
a Dwyer draft gauge, & a CO2 detector..

Looks to be the 80,000 BTU version. Goes by the width of the grates.
Make sure all the holes in the grate are open.
A wire wheel on a drill or a cheap sand blaster & air compressor with high temp paint.
Its an automatic tri burner..
It burns rice size coal.
Around 100lbs of hopper capacity.

A little elbow grease and you will have a great stove..

Good find, great price..

 
klotzy9
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Post by klotzy9 » Thu. Feb. 21, 2013 1:44 pm

So far, so good!

TY XAOS.

Could I use the barometric damper from the existing kero stove?

 
klotzy9
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Post by klotzy9 » Thu. Feb. 21, 2013 1:48 pm

Here in another question to go with the 10 above.

I believe this stove comes with a blower? Where does the blower go and where does the hot air blow out of?

thanks


 
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Rick 386
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Location: Royersford, Pa
Stoker Coal Boiler: AA 260 heating both sides of twin farmhouse
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: LL Hyfire II w/ coaltrol in garage
Coal Size/Type: Pea in AA 260, Rice in LL Hyfire II
Other Heating: Gas fired infared at work
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Post by Rick 386 » Thu. Feb. 21, 2013 10:05 pm

Yep, you got yourself a little jem there.

I believe the BTU is 85,000 max. It is a triburner as mentioned. Since you got it for a song, you may want to invest in a coaltrol to improve its burning. Or just use it as is. Either way it should do well for you. The benefit of the coaltrol will be the fact that you will not have to be adjusting the cam lobe to increase the output. The coaltrol would do that automatically.

A good wire brushing using a standard brush or powered by a drill will work well. Make sure you weard eye protection and dust protection when sanding.

My dad has that model in his upstairs den and the same model but in a fireplace insert in his basement. He has had both for 25 years. He has had to replace a few motors over the years but that is it.

I know it has a distribution fan but I forget where it is located. If needed I can check it out later next week.

Rick

 
klotzy9
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Post by klotzy9 » Thu. Feb. 21, 2013 10:43 pm

Thanks Rick. The more info the better.

What is a triburner on a coal stove? Ad what does it do?

So without a coaltrol I would have 2 manually adjust the heat output by doing exactly what? And if I had a coaltrol I could basically turn a dial or thermostat to the temp and it would adjust itself?

Thanks mark

 
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Rick 386
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Posts: 2508
Joined: Mon. Jan. 28, 2008 4:26 pm
Location: Royersford, Pa
Stoker Coal Boiler: AA 260 heating both sides of twin farmhouse
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: LL Hyfire II w/ coaltrol in garage
Coal Size/Type: Pea in AA 260, Rice in LL Hyfire II
Other Heating: Gas fired infared at work
Contact:

Post by Rick 386 » Fri. Feb. 22, 2013 8:18 am

Mark,

A triburner is the old way of burning coal in a stoker. There was 1 rheostat that by turning it up would increase the air speed under the coal (combustion air) would also increase the coal feed, and also increase the convection blower which blows the hot air into the space. That it the 3 things controlled together, hence the TRIburner name.

The feeling is that it is better to maintain the same amount of combustion air and just vary the speed of the coal feed. On your system, there is a threaded rod connected to the motor shaft of the combustion blower. This slows down the air as it slows down the coal feed. The other adjustment is moving a cam lobe attached to that threaded rod. Moving the cam lobe, increases or decreases the amount of travel of the carpet plate. As temps decrease, you have to physically move that cam lobe based on your predicted amount of heat needed.

To use a coaltrol, you would need to modify your unit a little. You would need to seperate the combustion blower from the feed motor. Then the coal trol would maintain combustion air constant. It would then vary the amount of feed automatically to satisfy the temp desired. A true set it and forget it.

Rick

 
klotzy9
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Post by klotzy9 » Fri. Feb. 22, 2013 8:35 am

Thanks again Rick.

Im starting to learn some here.

 
IH8JEEP
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Post by IH8JEEP » Tue. Feb. 26, 2013 9:04 pm

I have been using two of these stoves for 18+ years to heat with. Kinda old school but simple to keep running. Pm me and I can help you get started and give a few hints.

 
klotzy9
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Post by klotzy9 » Tue. Feb. 26, 2013 9:55 pm

Shall do.

 
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Ed.A
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Post by Ed.A » Wed. Feb. 27, 2013 7:49 am

Rick 386 wrote:. The other adjustment is moving a cam lobe attached to that threaded rod. Moving the cam lobe, increases or decreases the amount of travel of the carpet plate. As temps decrease, you have to physically move that cam lobe based on your predicted amount of heat needed.
Rick
I made a stupidly simple way of by-passing the lobe adjustment with 2 spring clips in 1/8" increments. So without clips it runs on its low overnite setting (about 100f stove temp) I can then just put a 1/8" clip on the rod to get 275F or so, or the 1/4" clip for 450+ F for bringing up the shop temp fast on really cold mornings.

There was I guy on here ( who got Banned I guess) who was selling a ghetto version of a Coaltrol that was based on a automatic temp controlled clip-arm that would open and close according to the temp setting. Appearently he no longer makes or sells these but it was what gave me my idea.

 
klotzy9
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Post by klotzy9 » Wed. Feb. 27, 2013 8:30 am

Do you have a picture of this?

thanks

Mark


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