New to Forum - Installing Old Alaska Stoker
Posted: Mon. Dec. 17, 2007 11:02 pm
Hey, All! Glad there is a forum to ask q's and get good answers.
I bought a used Alaska stoker stove that is about 10 years old. It appears to be a Channing, but I am not sure. It has 2 blowers and I am using the SWG powervent that came with it to vent it out of my basement window.
Due to a leaky and drafty basement in my 150 year old farm house, I am going to relocate the stove to my dining room which is fairly central in the house.
The pictures attached to this post show my stove and the interior of the firebox. I would like some input on its layout and if anything is missing!?
I have several questions which I hope you all can shed some light on:
Regarding draft control and barometric dampening...is it necessary to do any of this or is it just for more efficient burning. I would like to be as efficient as possible, but since it is already in the dead of winter here in Rochester, NY I will be happy if I can just reinstall the stove and get it running for now.
Is running the stove with the door open a terrible idea? It seems like it produces so much more heat with it open!!!
Referring to the photo of the interior of the stove...it appears that there should be some type of metal cowling for the gases to go up and around and down across the glass and then out the exhaust. Am I wrong?
I have more questions, but they may get answered as I continue to read other posts and as you answer these few. Thanks!
I bought a used Alaska stoker stove that is about 10 years old. It appears to be a Channing, but I am not sure. It has 2 blowers and I am using the SWG powervent that came with it to vent it out of my basement window.
Due to a leaky and drafty basement in my 150 year old farm house, I am going to relocate the stove to my dining room which is fairly central in the house.
The pictures attached to this post show my stove and the interior of the firebox. I would like some input on its layout and if anything is missing!?
I have several questions which I hope you all can shed some light on:
Regarding draft control and barometric dampening...is it necessary to do any of this or is it just for more efficient burning. I would like to be as efficient as possible, but since it is already in the dead of winter here in Rochester, NY I will be happy if I can just reinstall the stove and get it running for now.
Is running the stove with the door open a terrible idea? It seems like it produces so much more heat with it open!!!
Referring to the photo of the interior of the stove...it appears that there should be some type of metal cowling for the gases to go up and around and down across the glass and then out the exhaust. Am I wrong?
I have more questions, but they may get answered as I continue to read other posts and as you answer these few. Thanks!