Bought My Stove...Need a Second Set of Eyes for Install

av8r · Post by **av8r** » Fri. Dec. 07, 2007 7:05 pm

Bought a new Leisure Line Hearth model today. I'm picking it up tomorrow morning and installing it later tomorrow. I've prepped the firebox, removed the old crappy propane log set and vacuumed the whole thing as clean as I can get it. Now comes the interesting part. My flue door is 8" by about 16" and sits forward of the actual chimney by about 5" center to center. I had planned on using stainless flex pipe to attach to the stove and then push it up through the flue opening and then into the chimney about 4-5'. As the chimney opening is more toward the rear of the firebox (I'm estimating maybe 5") does anyone see any issue with just using flex to allow for the bend up into the chimney? I know you're supposed to block the rest of the flue opening with insulation. Any specific kind, or just fiberglass (I assume no paper backing)

Any tips for my install? Looks deceivingly simple, so I thought I'd ask to be sure.

Here are a few pics looking up into the flue/chimney from the front of the firebox

.JPG | 479KB | IMG_1800.jpg

.JPG | 441.7KB | IMG_1802.jpg

acesover · Post by **acesover** » Fri. Dec. 07, 2007 7:38 pm

av8r
Sounds ok, but it looks like you didn't take out your damper, I think you will find it's only about 5in wide. What size is your flex? After you have stove and flex installed, pack it good with insulation, you want it airtight so no draft can come down chimney.
acesover

av8r · Post by **av8r** » Fri. Dec. 07, 2007 7:46 pm

acesover wrote:av8r
Sounds ok, but it looks like you didn't take out your damper, I think you will find it's only about 5in wide. What size is your flex? After you have stove and flex installed, pack it good with insulation, you want it airtight so no draft can come down chimney.
acesover

Damper door is still attached, but I disconnected the handle from the pivot point which allows it to open all the way up and back. The damper opening does measure just about 8" wide and 16"+ long. There is a Heatalator steel firebox in that fireplace, so the damper opening is larger than normal.

So any fiberglass insulation is fine?

Thanks

spc · Post by **spc** » Fri. Dec. 07, 2007 7:49 pm

Damper Panel
**Broken Link(s) Removed**

av8r · Post by **av8r** » Fri. Dec. 07, 2007 8:03 pm

spc wrote:Damper Panel
**Broken Link(s) Removed**

Great idea! I'll fab something up out of 18ga galvanized to seal it up better.

Just measured the damper opening, 7 1/4" X 29"

cosmo · Post by **cosmo** » Fri. Dec. 07, 2007 11:56 pm

I installed a LL Hearth a month ago. I just removed the damper, Fitted regular stove pipe. I had to oblonggate it as it went thru the old damper opening. Installed baro damper before 90 into stove. Insulated tightly with unfaced fiberglass. 25' chimney, no problems, great draft.

av8r · Post by **av8r** » Sat. Dec. 08, 2007 8:02 am

cosmo wrote:I installed a LL Hearth a month ago. I just removed the damper, Fitted regular stove pipe. I had to oblonggate it as it went thru the old damper opening. Installed baro damper before 90 into stove. Insulated tightly with unfaced fiberglass. 25' chimney, no problems, great draft.

Thanks, Cosmo. How do you like the LL Hearth?

cosmo · Post by **cosmo** » Mon. Dec. 10, 2007 11:55 am

av8r

I like the Hearth , it was a good fit. I didn't have alot of places to vent to. I have a cape with a lot of window and door restrictions as far as direct vent. I had this working fireplace in the basement, and I figured I would keep the mess down there, so I really was looking for some way I could use that fireplace to vent. The Hearth seemed like the best fit. I'm slowly improveing the circulation by opening some old return ducts. So I'm a little frustrated when I here that gas boiler fire up. But Stoves are supplemental heat. I'm thinking about a coal boiler in the future.

regards