What Type of Stoker Is This?

Ok, Now I understand. So I will at least need a output shaft seal. I wonder if putting a type of transmission stop-leak could help prevent future seal problems?

Berlin wrote:unless you've got good spares lying around, will-burt will be the place to go. that doesn't look like one month's damage.

As I've mentioned the output shaft seal on the transmission tends to get "taken out" by coal fines migrating back from the feed screw, this becomes worse when fed wet coal. As this seal goes, it leaks oil into the auger of the stoker thus you don't know it's leaking; when this happens coupled with excessively wet coal, the water migrates back to the seal, it then seeps into the transmission and floats the oil, finally the remaining oil migrates out the bad seal into the feed screw and disappears into the fire. Then you are left with a water and rust filled transmission (sometimes with coal fines too) and worn out gears. Although I've seen this process before, it usually takes years to remove enough residual oil film to create that kind of wear. Even if you have a bad output shaft seal on one of these transmissions, checking and filling twice a month and periodically adding some MoS2 additive keeps these gears in good shape for many seasons.

When you get back to mongolia you need to kick a few butts :whip:

Yes! Actually it was a "child" that I was trying to do the remote service on it! He is only 16 and I had him do the work on it because he can speak English so it was easier to communicate with him, also he was there with me when I installed it.

CapeCoaler wrote:That is what happens when doing remote service work...
Get all the parts you need state side including that special lube...
Rebuild it and show everybody how to maintain that heat monster...

our orphanage in Mongolia

If a child could maintain it maybe it might not have gone bad...

This is an issue caused by lack of maintenence...
Get a checklist going so the regular maintenence actually gets done.
Develop a regular plan of cleaning the fines and checking for proper oil levels...
Check for water or hopefully lack of water...
Keep the coal oiled and dry...
Stock up on regular wear parts that are not avaliable 'over there'...
The 'rents worked in Saudi for a few years back in the 90's...
The internet made life a bit easier for them...

jkmechanic wrote:Ok, Now I understand. So I will at least need a output shaft seal.

mmm... not exactly. You are going to need:
1. the worm
2. the driven spur gear
3. the two bearings on the worm shaft
4. 1 tube gear oil silicone sealant
5. 2 oil seals
6. thrust washer for the output shaft
7. possibly new output shaft if it has become pitted and worn out near the seal from excessively wet coal - if it has, this will happen again in short order.
8. 1 qt. of 90+ weight gear oil
9. 2 tubes of MoS2 additive for gears

I've rebuilt quite a few of these things, not replacing the necessary parts will just lead to more damage. When the worm and spur get worn to a certain point, the gears don't mesh properly, this builds heat under load and tends to send metal pieces into the gear case oil which takes out seals, bearings and other gears. you shouldn't re-use these gears. This whole case needs to be disassembled, cleaned, and seals and worn parts replaced. If you repair it right, then fill it with the proper oil and mos2 additive (stop leak won't do anything for you) (and keep sopping wet coal out of it) your transmission will last for many, many, years without any other replacements - check the oil at least twice a month.