Air Duct Connection to Harman Magun Stoker

If I ever get rid of my Harman TLC 2000 I would consider getting a stoker. I was looking at the Harman Magun Stoker with interest in the optional 6" air duct connection. The owner's manual says it's only for connecting to one register (within 20') but has anyone tried connecting it up to the main hot air plenum of their house & letting the warm air trickle through the house?
( the warm air plenum runs almost directly above the stove (above a suspended ceiling) while the cold air return plenum is about 25 ft away)
Wondering how effective this may be.

Hi Richard, your stove looks very nice in your avitar. However, if you want to do some experimenting, you can make a sheet metal 'bonnet' that covers the top and some of the sides of your stove, leaving the bottom edge open for air entrance. Make a duct outlet at the top of this 'bonnet' and run a duct to your house ducting above the stove.

This will not be very attractive, but sometimes we just HAVE to experiment !! . This way you can see if a gravity setup [hot air rising] will work for you. If you added the factory blower you then would have a slightly-forced air system.

Just an idea to try if you are bored.

Greg L

LsFarm wrote:Hi Richard, your stove looks very nice in your avitar. However, if you want to do some experimenting, you can make a sheet metal 'bonnet' that covers the top and some of the sides of your stove, leaving the bottom edge open for air entrance. Make a duct outlet at the top of this 'bonnet' and run a duct to your house ducting above the stove.

This will not be very attractive, but sometimes we just HAVE to experiment !! . This way you can see if a gravity setup [hot air rising] will work for you. If you added the factory blower you then would have a slightly-forced air system.

Just an idea to try if you are bored.

Greg L

Thanks Greg. I love the Harman TLC2000 we own & it comes with a full baffle all the way around the stove (except the front of course) that leaves about a 1/2" air gap between it & the actual stove inner wall, open at the bottm & top. (This is great in that it lets you install the stove much tighter to combustible surfaces) Where the stove is in our basment family room, I don't think my wife would like me jury-rigging a bonnet around it!
I have recently installed a fan which does make a huge difference in moving the warm air around so I'm really just thinking out loud in terms of heating efficiency.

Richard, go to the Leisureline stove site and look at the bonnet available for their big Hyfire stove, this is what I'm talking about.
You could modify your stove with a bonnet, and I'm sure with a factory fan or similar forcing air through that air-gap enclosure you described, you would get a LOT more heat off your stove. That is why the jacket is on your stove, to provide a heat collector duct around the hot firebox. This is why I was so surprised that your stove was available without a fan. Seems a waste of steel to add a second skin, which insulates the firebox from the room. If used as a radiant stove [not fan forced] then it should be a single wall stove.

Try 'borrowing' a old hair dryer from your wife or kids, and use the fan only setting, aim this blower into the fan opening on the back of the TLC. See if the air coming out the front vents isn't HOT!! Your fan behind the stove is a great idea, but the close jacket around the firebox needs some forced air [at least in my opinion].

Let us know if the experiment nets some HOT air or not..

Greg L

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