Relocating My Direct Vent Motor Idea

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cheapheat
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Posts: 151
Joined: Sat. Sep. 02, 2006 8:08 pm
Stove/Furnace Make: Alaska Channing 3
Stove/Furnace Model: Bagging my own rice coal
Location: Skaneateles Falls NewYork

Post Sat. Nov. 03, 2007 6:33 pm

Hi everyone, Ive got another idea in my head and although it will take me awhile to do it I wanted to run it by the veterans and new guys in the forum. The noise from my direct vent hasnt bothered me the past 2 years but now my hearing seems to be worse than ever and when im near my stove I cant hear anything clearly at all even 2 rooms away now I have to crank the tv up to hear any of it. So my idea was to move the direct vent motor about 18 inches off the back of the stove into the air space which currently houses only the 4 inch(about4 feet long)vent pipe. I have access to 1/4 inch walled mild steel tube of any size at work and Im a machinist so getting a pipe to slide over the outlet of the stove is no problem. Then I would attach the direct vent to the larger pipe in the old basement stairwell and shorten the 4 inch accordingly. Of course I would buy a bigger thimble than the 4 inch that protects the interior wall now so there would be no contact with combustibles and running a cord from the DV to the stove would be easy. My only concern is that extra volume in the stove and how the DV would pull it through. Asusual I look forward to your comments and ideas. Jim Oh yeah I have an Alaska Channing 3

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Ed.A
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Posts: 1638
Joined: Thu. Aug. 30, 2007 7:27 pm
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Alaska Channing III/ '94 Stoker II
Coal Size/Type: Rice
Location: Canterbury Ct.

Post Sat. Nov. 03, 2007 6:39 pm

I have no idea.....except to say....your a machinist? Me too :lol:
I have me own shop as well.

Sorry for the thread hijack Move along nothing to see here. :oops:

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cheapheat
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Posts: 151
Joined: Sat. Sep. 02, 2006 8:08 pm
Stove/Furnace Make: Alaska Channing 3
Stove/Furnace Model: Bagging my own rice coal
Location: Skaneateles Falls NewYork

Post Sat. Nov. 03, 2007 8:40 pm

Sorry forthemisunderstanding but I don't have my own shop. I work foran electric motor repair company as a machinist/welder/motor winder.Jim


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Ed.A
Member
Posts: 1638
Joined: Thu. Aug. 30, 2007 7:27 pm
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Alaska Channing III/ '94 Stoker II
Coal Size/Type: Rice
Location: Canterbury Ct.

Post Sat. Nov. 03, 2007 9:30 pm

cheapheat wrote:Sorry forthemisunderstanding but I don't have my own shop. I work foran electric motor repair company as a machinist/welder/motor winder.Jim
Runonsentence alert!

Actually it was my bad for writing it in such a manner that would lead you to believe that I made you think that I assumed that you did own a shop...(ie: I own a shop as well).

What I meant to say was...."cool , your a machinist as well, me too, I have a shop myself at home."

Sorry for the misunderstanding and thread killer.

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Matthaus
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Posts: 1929
Joined: Mon. Oct. 02, 2006 8:59 am
Stoker Coal Boiler: Leisure Line WL110 Dual Fuel, natural gas
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Leisure Line Lil' Heater (rental house)
Coal Size/Type: Rice and Buckwheat Anthracite
Location: Wilkes Barre, PA

Post Sat. Nov. 03, 2007 9:43 pm

cheapheat, I believe that will work as long as there are no els in the pipe before the DV. One sure way to find out is make a test pipe and try it, Check the draft with a manometer or draft gauge, plus use a CO detector to verify no leaks.

As with all DVs that mount on the stove and pressurize the vent pipe, sealing up the system downstream of the DV is very important.

The Tjerland style DVs are exclusive to Alaska (or at least I have not seen them on anything else). Keystoker uses a factory built adapter and a standard draft inducer from the oil burner kingdom. :lol:

Anyway, enough rambling, I think you could probably make your idea work, although not sure if the insurance guy would like it. :x :roll:

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