Thermostat ???

 
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Frytown
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Post by Frytown » Wed. Oct. 12, 2011 3:45 pm

3 teeth. Im playing a bit with the asher, time and trials are the best. Someday Ill get the Old Axeman Pro back over here and take a look at it to make sure the ash bed is not to high or to low. Today at lunch it was by my guess a little to hot. Last thing I want is for the fire to go up into the Auger Head then have to replace the gasket etc... So I bumped the asher back to 150. We will see. Really amazed at how this thing maintains its fire. Almost looks like its totally out but comes roaring back. Ill have to read my stats book on the Differential and HL LL settings to find out what will work with the system I have.


 
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Rob R.
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Post by Rob R. » Wed. Oct. 12, 2011 3:49 pm

A good place to start is the factory's recommendation. Refer to your AA manual.

Are you adjusting the Anthrastat by turning the knob? If so...that is a no-no. You are supposed to turn it only with an allen wrench on the center screw. Either way, you should pull that thing off and calibrate it. The chances the knob pointing to the "true" setting after 50 years are slim.

 
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Post by AA130FIREMAN » Thu. Oct. 13, 2011 12:39 am

Frytown wrote: Ive thought about changing the low limit differential to 5 degrees from 160, and keeping the high limit at differential of 10 degrees from 180. High limit aquastat is set at 200.

Will need to play around with it to see whats going on.
All the adjustable differential does is increase or decrease the temperature of the low limits rise. If it's set at 160 with a diff of 15, it will start at 150 and go till 165 with no demand. Change it to 25 and it will still kick in at 150 and stop at 175. I would keep the adjustable diff. set as low as possable, it's not like oil, it may stop stoking but the temps will keep climbing with the fresh coals, it's not like oil you can turn on and off.

 
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Post by Frytown » Sat. Oct. 15, 2011 10:39 pm

I only posted so many pics of the fire, so if there is something someone thinks is right or wrong they might tell me. They were taken on different days and times, typically when running or shortly after.
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Frytown
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Post by Frytown » Sat. Oct. 15, 2011 10:43 pm

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Post by Frytown » Sat. Oct. 15, 2011 10:47 pm

Has any one ever seen those old farm houses? Stupid question... Well I live in a old 1800's farm house that back in the day the heat came up through the floor in a central floor metal grate. I am now looking to find a replacement for mine. The little 10 month old can fit his hand down through the broken luvers now... 29.5 is the exact opening completely square. The current grate is in rough shape. Let me know if there is a place to get these?

 
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Post by Frytown » Sat. Oct. 15, 2011 10:58 pm

This is what mine looks like. But I really don't care what the next one will look like. as long as it is easy to break. The other ones I have seen were of tougher metal that could be welded. This one I think is not really designed to be walked on in the condition it is in. Creeks like crazy, we always jump it once the baby goes to bed. :|
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Post by Frytown » Sat. Oct. 15, 2011 11:14 pm

Set my High Limit at 175 (down from 180) diff 10 and low limit at 155(down from 160) diff 10. Did this because the relief valve gets tripped of course never when I'm around, and have water in the bucket about 7 inches in a day and a half. Is there something else I should be doing?

Thought about boiling some water on the stove top with a digital thermometer and putting the Anthrastat in it to find out where 140 degrees is on it. Might pick up a spare to swap it out some time.

 
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Post by Frytown » Sat. Oct. 15, 2011 11:43 pm

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Pictures of the Bin,

 
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Post by AA130FIREMAN » Sun. Oct. 16, 2011 12:04 am

Frytown wrote:Set my High Limit at 175 (down from 180) diff 10 and low limit at 155(down from 160) diff 10. Did this because the relief valve gets tripped of course never when I'm around, and have water in the bucket about 7 inches in a day and a half. Is there something else I should be doing?
Do you have a big enough exp. tank, bad pressure relief valve, how high is the pressure and temp ? Is your high limit cut off working ? Excessive draft ? The expansion tank needs a precharge pressure before installed.
Last edited by AA130FIREMAN on Sun. Oct. 16, 2011 12:11 am, edited 1 time in total.

 
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Frytown
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Post by Frytown » Sun. Oct. 16, 2011 12:10 am

Well, your the second person to mention the pressure tank. The Axeman Expert here said I should have got one that can hold 5.5 gallons or something like that. This is a T12 that holds 4.4 gallons. Wonder if the place that sold it to me would take it back??? :oops:

 
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Post by AA130FIREMAN » Sun. Oct. 16, 2011 12:20 am

Frytown wrote:Well, your the second person to mention the pressure tank. The Axeman Expert here said I should have got one that can hold 5.5 gallons or something like that. This is a T12 that holds 4.4 gallons. Wonder if the place that sold it to me would take it back??? :oops:
That sounds like the problem. Extrol should have a chart to size it for you. Probably can't return the tank you have, no reason you can't add a second tank. I have 2 of the extrol 60's on mine, 7 gallons each. My pressure varies at most 2 lbs, if that.http://www.amtrol.com/support/extrol_com_sizing.html

 
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Post by Frytown » Sun. Oct. 16, 2011 8:20 am

Another question. Should the Spirovent and expansion tank be located on the heat supply line going out instead of the return comming back? Going toi see if I can pick up new expansioin tank today at HD if they have bigger ones.

 
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Post by AA130FIREMAN » Sun. Oct. 16, 2011 8:37 am

Frytown wrote:Another question. Should the Spirovent and expansion tank be located on the heat supply line going out instead of the return comming back? Going toi see if I can pick up new expansioin tank today at HD if they have bigger ones.
You should be pumping away from the air scoop and the expansion tank. So the first thing the hot water will meet coming out of the boiler is the scoop/exp. tank.

 
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Post by Rob R. » Sun. Oct. 16, 2011 8:39 am

Your air separator should be mounted in the supply line, it is much easier to remove air from hot water. Check the air pressure in your expansion tank before installing it...it should match your auto-feed pressure, usually 12 psi.


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