Tri-Burner Stoker Grate Question???

My Tri-Burner Stoker Grate sets down on stoker and seals w/ a thin flat tight woven fiberglass gasket rolled over the edge, half in and half out of stoker opening.
Reading says to replace it any time it is removed. I haven't seen any fiberglass gasket that is as thin and tight woven as what is already installed and thought I might just use furnace cement instead.
I believe that the gasket is presently damaged and not sealing as it should and some combustion air is leaking out from that joint and causing some pressure loss to the holes that feed air up to coal on grate. I have found some thicker gasket that is also a looser weave and question whether it would seal sufficiently.

Would not cement be an even a better seal?
Is there any reason not to just use the cement?

Hi there... The correct gasket for your Reading Tri-Burner should be- 5/8" channel gasket with pressure sensitive adhesive on one side, the side opposite the 'channel'... Then at the rear of the grate there should be a short length (the width of the grate) of the same channel gasket having a thin metal strip running through the center of it... This is called the 'strongback'... When using the channel gasket to seal the grate, it is not necessary to use any gasket cement except maybe where the sides meet the rear strongback, put a dab of cement in each rear corner to ensure sealing... The channel gasket by itself makes a very tight seal as long as the channel cast into your grate is clean and in good shape...

Others have used gasket cement around the entire grate before and I'm sure it works just fine, but I'm not sure at what height that leaves the grate in relation to the feed ramp/carpet... The grate should be at or just a hair above the feed ramp that the back half of the carpet sits on to work at its best... I would think that with gasket cement you may find that the grate sits just a little low on what you're calling the 'stoker' and IMO, if the leading edge of the carpet does not sit down flat against the grate through its entire in/out cycle, you are just inviting fines to make a home under the carpet...

This channel gasket can be had at most stove shops or PM me and I can send enough to you to get the job done... Hope this helps...

Murdoc

Murdoc1,
WOW!...Thanks for your informative reply

I just happen to have that very size and type of gasket...used it on a pellet stove I refurbished for hopper lid and door glass. Thought it was too different from what was stock when new on this stoker.

I know what you mean about the short rear piece as far as proper placement and fines...I had experienced that on my "learning curve" already.

Is the size of metal strip at the rear "stongback" just need to be correct length and width to fill the channel space? Does thickness of metal need to be anything critical?

Thanks Again

The 'strongback' that I have measures-

Channel gasket itself= 7"

Metal strip for 'strongback'= 7-3/4"

The metal strip is just a piece of 18-20ga. galvanized sheetmetal trimmed down to approx. 3/16"... Center it up so you have 3/8" out each end of the channel gasket and stick it!!!

Be sure to measure your grate to see if the above material measures make sense for what you have there before cutting any gaskets etc... Measure twice, cut once type of deal...

Also, yes, the older tri-burners did use what appeared to be just a simple 'flat' gasket that may or may not? have been cemented in place, not sure on that one??? But the channel gasket seems to be the 'new' gasket being used...

Now when you install the gasket on what I call the 'feeder chassis' (the part that the grate sits on) start at one of the rear corners and center the channel gasket over the vertical edge of the chassis adhesive side down to chassis and work it all the way around folding the gasket so that half is on the inside half is on the outside... Place the 'strongback and cement the corners where the back meets the sides then center and place your clean grate over the chassis... I find it best to use a wooden block and hammer to then 'seat' the grate to the chassis... It takes a few good shots to get it fully seated and make sure it is seated even all the way around... There ya have it, once the grate seats over that gasket it makes a nice tight seal and should last a good long while... Of course if you do remove the grate again you should replace it all again...

Hope this helps, good luck!!!

Murdoc

Okay, sounds good. I should be far enough along in my "learning curve", as far as this grate is concerned, to not have to mess,w/ it for a good while after I do what you described.

The Tri-Burner was new, but w/ the fabricating evolution of this furnace, I had the grate on and off many times along the way. That made it a little less than perfect for sure.

Stay tuned, as I've got a modification in mind to re-work the added comb. fan.
I removed the fan wheel from on the common motor shaft of stoker and gearbox to allow independent constant fan operation...I don't like the sharp right turn the air has to make from blowing into the original fan inlet port and air channel. If this gasket replacement is enough of an improvement to air through grate I'll hold off till after heating season to modify it.