Baro Damper Setting

A Coal stoker furnace or stove controls most operations including automatically feeding the coal. They are quite similar to any conventional oil and gas units and easily operated for extended periods of time. They commonly use rice coal but may use larger sizes like buckwheat. They can be used as primary heat, supplementary heat or have a dual set up with your existing oil/gas furnace.
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gambler
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Post Wed. Aug. 01, 2007 12:19 pm

I am sure this is in the forum somewhere but I got tired of looking. I have a LL Pioneer and I need to know what to set the barometric damper at? I will be using a manometer to measure the draft.

thanks for any info!!

PS maybe Jerry could put this info on his website?

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coaledsweat
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Post Wed. Aug. 01, 2007 1:37 pm

For most coal appliances .06 is the maximum draft allowed. You should use what the manufacturer suggests, which should be in the unit's directions.

Jerry & Karen
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Post Wed. Aug. 01, 2007 4:01 pm

Hi Gambler,
We always recommend a -.02 at low, to .05 at high. With everything taken into consideration, setting the weight on 2/3 will be a real good starting point. Make sure the stove and chimney are at operating temp. for a few hrs. This is very important for a proper setting.
Good luck,
Jerry

ewcsretired
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Post Wed. Aug. 01, 2007 4:48 pm

Jerry,
I was told to set mine all the way to the left once the chimney is up to temp. You make um, so 2/3 must be the correct setting. Can you briefly explain what is going on at full vice 2/3.
thanks


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Post Wed. Aug. 01, 2007 8:46 pm

Phil,
If you set the barometric flap too lite, when you start to get a build up of fly ash in the pipe, the draft is reduced because the size of the pipe opening is reduced. Now, the baro will still open the same, because it's set too lite, and the draft to the stove will be reduced to near nothing. The secret is to draw from the stove, but not to much, leaving the heat in the steel body as long as possible. I have stated this before but it's worth repeating. When sweat is visible on the bottom side of the hopper lid, you will soon have a draft problem. The heat and gases inside the stove can no longer be drawn up the pipe, so they need a way to get out of the stove. The feeder or hopper will work just fine for gases to escape, but not what we want. This can be caused by a faulty baro, or faulty setting. With a LL we recommand 2/3 on the weight.
Jer

tmbm50
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Post Mon. Nov. 12, 2007 12:48 pm

Can you cl;arify by what you mean when say a setting of 2/3?

I just got a new damper and it is number with 2,4,6,8 with the 2 being all the way to the left. Are you saying to set it at 2 or 3 or two thirds to the right?

thanks

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WNY
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Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Keystoker 90K, Leisure Line Hyfire I
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Post Tue. Nov. 13, 2007 7:00 am

2,4,6 I think they are the .02, .04, etc.. draft settings. I have mine around the 2-4 mark and it seems to be maintaining the stove around .04 draft. May have to adjust slightly when it gets colder and it draws better.

Just make sure you have on the correct slot (if it has 2 different slots) One is for Horiz install and the other is for Vertical.
- Dave
Hyfire I & Keystoker 90K heating an 1890 Victorian
- Amsoil Authorized T1 Certified Dealer

ace22
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Post Thu. Sep. 25, 2008 8:17 pm

Jerry, am I reading your suggested manometer settings right? The low setting could be a negative -.02 and the high could be a positive +.05. That seems like quite a spred. Is that correct? I just purchased a LL hearth and I do have a monometer installed and I want to be sure to get the right draft settings. Thanks to you and your wife, you have always been very helpful.

Bob


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Post Thu. Sep. 25, 2008 8:25 pm

Bob,
That's a -02 to a -05. Never on the positive side.
Jerry

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CoalHeat
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Post Thu. Sep. 25, 2008 8:42 pm

We always recommend a -.02 at low, to .05 at high.
It was a typo, Jerry missed the - that goes before the .05.

Remember-the marks on the baro are approximate. You should check the actual draft with a manometer to be certain.
Heating a circa 1832 farmhouse with a Harman Magnafire Mark I & a 1959 EFM 350 (heating DHW).
100% Oil Free!
"It's what we learn after we think we know it all that counts."

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WNY
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Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Keystoker 90K, Leisure Line Hyfire I
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Stove/Furnace Model: 90K, Hyfire I, VF3000 Soon
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Post Fri. Sep. 26, 2008 7:27 am

Also, in another thread, many of us hook up the Manometer to READ on the POSITIVE scale (larger), but you are actually reading a Vacuum or NEGATIVE pressure in the stove. You just have to switch the LOW/HIGH side of the Manometer tube.
- Dave
Hyfire I & Keystoker 90K heating an 1890 Victorian
- Amsoil Authorized T1 Certified Dealer

majortom6x
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Post Sat. Oct. 04, 2008 9:29 am

I'm confused. For example , what does a baro setting of 3 really mean? Does it mean that the draft measured between Baro damper and stove outlet will be approx: -0.03 w.c. as measured with a manometer?

Where is the right place to measure the draft and with what manometer? Dwyer model 25 ok ? If measuring above Baro would reading be positive? Please help.

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LsFarm
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Post Sat. Oct. 04, 2008 12:09 pm

HI Major, there are a lot of threads on the topic of manometers.. lots to read..

The quick answer is you want to measure the draft in the flue pipe above the stove, below the barometric damper..

And yes, the '3' setting on the sliding weight scale means that it will be approximately a -.03"wc . But the scale is often way off, us a manometer.

Hope this helps. Read in the 'Venting, chimneys etc' forum and on the 'Anthracite news' forum about Manometer.

Greg L
Burning Pea/Buckwheat through an antique stoker [semi retired SSboiler],
Running an Axeman-Anderson 260M boiler burning Pea, About 150-250#per day
Farming, Fixing, Fabricating and Flying: 'spare time' what's that?

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