How Do I Add Humidity

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TAMNOZ
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Post by TAMNOZ » Fri. Dec. 03, 2010 9:56 pm

I've had the the Keystoker running for about a week straight now and now I'm having problems with my daughter waking up with a sore throat. I think the house is drying out. Do you guys put pots of water next to the ducts or what?
Jim


 
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Rick 386
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Post by Rick 386 » Fri. Dec. 03, 2010 10:00 pm

Yep,

By the ducts, on top of the stove, whatever........

Rick

 
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WNY
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Post by WNY » Sat. Dec. 04, 2010 7:08 am

Do a search on Humidifiers on here, many of us run them in the winter to keep things from drying out. We use a big 10 gallon console type in the living room and a small 1 gallon unit in the bedroom.

 
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lowfog01
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Post by lowfog01 » Sat. Dec. 04, 2010 8:20 am

Something to think about if you have a piano is that it's important to keep the humidity has high as you can. The dry air will kill the tune and inner works in a heart beat. They really suck up the moisture. We always kept a large room humidifier next to the piano but last year our piano technician convinced us to have a Piano Saver Humidifer/Dehumidifer put in. It fits inside the piano's case where no one can see it and it maintains the piano's relative humidity. It's something you may want to consider if you spent a lot for the piano or even if you don't but want to protect it. I know there's always something to spend your money on. Lisa

 
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AA130FIREMAN
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Post by AA130FIREMAN » Sat. Dec. 04, 2010 9:48 am

If the ductwork is galvanized steel, you can add a humidifier in the system. If it's the insulated ductboard, the in system humidifier will created mold.

 
bksaun
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Post by bksaun » Sat. Dec. 04, 2010 10:50 am

I bought a Skuttle whole house steam humidifier, works well.

BK

 
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AA130FIREMAN
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Post by AA130FIREMAN » Sat. Dec. 04, 2010 10:57 am

bksaun wrote:I bought a Skuttle whole house steam humidifier, works well.

BK
Is it in the ductwork or a stand alone ? Did you see a difference in electric bills ? Skuttle told me the steam could use $100/month for electric :shock:


 
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Post by bksaun » Sat. Dec. 04, 2010 9:34 pm

Its in the duct work, I went with the 220v, It did raise the bill some but not that much. Our rates in KY are among the lowest in the nation. If your in an area with high rates I would try something else. For sure stay away from the 110v version.

I have considered designing something to go under the top of my Channing III, It would require a cast iron, steel or aluminum tray and a float and fill tube that could with stand high heat.

Bk

 
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dave brode
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Post by dave brode » Sat. Dec. 04, 2010 11:50 pm

The 55 UD works well for me, very little cost to run, no place for gook to grow, since it has no standing water. Water flows over pad, then drains away.

http://skuttle.com/underduct.html

Around $200, iirc. The "pads" are pricey though. I just paid $36 for two [they last a season].

Dave

 
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Richard S.
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Post by Richard S. » Sun. Dec. 05, 2010 12:57 am

bksaun wrote: For sure stay away from the 110v version.
AFAIK this doesn't make difference except you can have smaller wires on the 220 version because you can have lower amperage.

watts = voltage*amps

Your amperage is lower on 220 but you have more voltage so no net gain. For example you get 3.4 BTU's from one watt whether it's 110, 220 or one million volts. Your 1500 watt electric baseboard is going to consume just as many kWh whether it's 220 or 110 for the same amount of BTU's.

 
btrowe1
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Post by btrowe1 » Sun. Dec. 05, 2010 8:29 pm

Sears console, I fill it 2 times a day.. I keep the humidity around 40%.

 
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goblin79
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Post by goblin79 » Sun. Dec. 05, 2010 11:36 pm

i have a duech oven on top of my cumbustneer and a big wall fountaion they do pretty good just have to keep them full

 
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SMITTY
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Post by SMITTY » Sun. Dec. 05, 2010 11:43 pm

Humidity? Just add water ....

 
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fastcat
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Post by fastcat » Mon. Dec. 06, 2010 1:19 am

Smittty did you fall asleep and leave the hose running again? :D

 
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ceccil
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Post by ceccil » Mon. Dec. 06, 2010 1:32 am

goblin79 wrote:i have a duech oven on top of my cumbustneer
Same setup here on my Keystoker.


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