Re: Fresh Air Supply for Koker
Posted: Sun. Nov. 21, 2010 9:20 am
Nice all-around job
Just one question, how often do you take the bike out to blow the dust off?
Just one question, how often do you take the bike out to blow the dust off?
Using anthracite or bituminous coal for residential and commercial heating.
https://coalpail.com/coal-forum/
TAMNOZ wrote:pics don't show what happens to the pipe when it gets to the stove
I can't speak for any particular make/model of stove, but here are some pics of how I connect my outside air to the 50 CFM Dayton blower that I use for combustion air... My stove is a early 80's Alaska Stoker Stove 2, but my feeder assy. is a custom built/modified setup that I put together... Its no longer a tri-burner, but instead looks more like a leisure line feeder... Here's some pics to look at and maybe give you some Ideas on how to make a real good direct hookup to your blower... Also I use a 4" stainless blast gate to regulate airflow to the blower inlet, you'll see that in one of the pictures, so I have complete control of just how much air I want to supply to the grate without speed controlling the blower motor...jrn8265 wrote:Can you show a pic of how you mounted the hose to the koker
Vernoncoaler, 15' should not be any problem at all... When in doubt just supersize the duct, you can always reduce once you get to the stove!!! I would suggest you use metal duct instead of flex to get it the distance from your thru-wall penetration to your stove, then add flex to make your termination at the blower... It makes for a much cleaner finished product and is easier to secure to joists etc... Not to mention, most flex sold in the big box stores are intended for discharge not intake and while with what little air most of these combustion blowers demand it would likley never become a problem, but truth is the ones I've seen in those stores are mighty flimsy... If you want to add a blast gate to regulate what the blower can pull through the duct and supply to the grate check out McMaster Carr Industrial Supply and search 'blast gate'... I will post up pics of my entire outside air setup maybe later today... I'm workin' on it in real-time today, so if it gets done I'll put it up...Vernoncoaler wrote:How long are your runs for the fresh air intake? I would like to put on but the closest place and most conveniont is right next to the chimney and I am thinking that it will draw in the exhaust. If I go to the other side of the house that would be fine but its about 15ft a way and don't want to restrick the air flow. Do you think that would be to far?
TAMNOZ, homesaver is right in sayingTAMNOZ wrote:I didn't realize there was a fan under there until last nite when I took a flashlite and started looking. But I do have a question about that fan. There is a flap covering part of the inlet Why do they do that?
But I would like to add to that in saying that the flap that is partially covering the combustion blower inlet is also there to allow you adjustment to fine tune your 'over fire draft' aka the draft inside your firebox vs. your chimney draft... For instance, my chimney is marginal at best, especially in warm weather, anything above 50 degrees outside temp forget about it gotta shut down the stove or die from co... So, with my marginal chimney I may need to reduce the amount of air being sucked into the combustion blower and fed to the fire because the amount of air being supplied is more air than my chimney can take away, in other words my firebox is actually positive pressure instead of negative pressure or draft... So, what that flap is there for is to enable you to either feed more air or less depending on your particular setup/chimney... An ideal setup is where your over fire draft reads the same as your chimney draft and your baro is also set to operate properly within that setting... You will find that by opening that flap up more you can get a mean flame goin' in there, and while that is cool and you may think you are maybe somehow getting the most out of your setup/heating dollar, thats is not what its there for... I would suggest you check your over fire draft along with chimney draft and adjust that flap to a point where you have the readings equal and within a reasonable range as per the stove mfg. suggested range of operation... At that point you are now getting the most out of your heating dollar, not putting it up the chimney and not killing everyone in the house, but instead, 'just right'homesaver wrote:The combustion motor is set as it is because they determined it only needed that much air to properly burn the coal.
Just to clarify between the two types of forced venting for any newbies that might eventually read this thread. Yours is a direct vent where the exhaust fan is mounted inside near the top of the stove, venting/pushing into the pipes that must be sealed due to positive pressure in the ...homesaver wrote:Well said. I should have stated that the factory seting is pretty mudh dead on as is for a power vent setup like mine.
No problem. Thanks for the mention. One thing to remember is that when using a direct vent, all pipe connections must be sealed up tight to prevent the pressurized gasses from being released inside the home. A power vent is not so picky as any leak in the pipes will just minimize the draft.VigIIPeaBurner wrote: ... a power vent is when the fan is located outside venting/pulling to the open air (pics thanks to Rick 386's
TAMNOZ wrote:How do you know if you need a fresh air supply or not. I have a Keystoker with power vent.
Jim