When to Replace Stoker Stove Gaskets?

A Coal stoker furnace or stove controls most operations including automatically feeding the coal. They are quite similar to any conventional oil and gas units and easily operated for extended periods of time. They commonly use rice coal but may use larger sizes like buckwheat. They can be used as primary heat, supplementary heat or have a dual set up with your existing oil/gas furnace.
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Lee1
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Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Alaska Channing 3
Location: Greenwich NY

Post Fri. Mar. 05, 2010 2:53 am

Hello, I have an Alaska Channing 111, its in its 3rd winter of service. I do plan on replacing the door (and window), and the ash pan door gaskets at the end of this season. My question is hopper gasket and other gaskets associated with the feeder system. They seem to be ok, really don't want to pull everthing apart if I don't have to. The manual says every three years gaskets should be replaced. Whats the practice you guys use with your stoves?

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WNY
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Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Keystoker 90K, Leisure Line Hyfire I
Coal Size/Type: Rice
Stove/Furnace Make: Keystoker, LL & CoalTrol
Stove/Furnace Model: 90K, Hyfire I, VF3000 Soon
Location: Cuba, NY
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Post Fri. Mar. 05, 2010 6:09 am

Usually when they wear out. Just replaced my gaskets on my LL HYfire, I think it was dated 1995, The hopper, burn plate, etc.. were pretty crispy. I had put new door gaskets on when I bought it (Used) about 3 years ago.
- Dave
Hyfire I & Keystoker 90K heating an 1890 Victorian
- Amsoil Authorized T1 Certified Dealer

GeorgiePorgie
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Stove/Furnace Make: Alaska, Harman, Keystoker
Stove/Furnace Model: Stoker

Post Fri. Mar. 05, 2010 6:54 am

As long as they are soft, I would leave them alone, I don't use any on the hopper side, and I try to use minimum stove cement if any, especially on the doors, where I don't use any cement at all, the channel on the doors are close to a half circle,( Alaska models ) and the gaskets tend to stay there with nice flexibility if installed properly.

The one crtical part to use a gasket or cement, is the location between the burn grate and the back of the stove, you should block any air passage to prevent the fire from creeping back, otherwise you'll end up with a hopper fire. ( search hopper fire on this forun, you'll see my first posting with pictures ) hopper fires aren't fun.

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freetown fred
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Hand Fed Coal Stove: HITZER 50-93
Coal Size/Type: BLASCHAK Nut
Location: Freetown,NY 13803

Post Fri. Mar. 05, 2010 7:42 am

I guess I have a peculiar outlook on this--I replaced my door & glass gasket on my stove last summer--around Dec. I noticed some hot spots.Of course I thought something drastic was going on :shock: I spoke w/ an older guy (can you beleive that??)who has my style stove, I told him what I had done maintenance wise & he told me to replace the rest of the gaskets,which I did HOT...His analogy was "would you only replace the brake pads on the right front of your truck???" My hopper & ash door LOOKED o.k. but after changing them,there was a definate improvement---point being--you're already there,git er done :)I'm sure this would apply to any style stove
"A people that values it's privileges above it's principals, soon loses both"--Dwight D Eisenhower


Lee1
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Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Alaska Channing 3
Location: Greenwich NY

Post Fri. Mar. 05, 2010 11:33 pm

Thanks for your advice!

csstoker
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Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Alaska
Coal Size/Type: Rice
Location: North Central MD

Post Sun. Mar. 07, 2010 9:23 am

the hopper gasket, IMO, should be the last gasket that needs replacing. WHile it gets hot, it stays the coolest and isn't exposed to the same environment extremes as the others. Proper install of the gaskets is very important. If you replace them all at once, you can forget about it for a couple/few years instead of having to reassess every year. But obviously, evaluating the gasket condition and placement every spring cleaning should still continue

Lee1
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Posts: 137
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Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Alaska Channing 3
Location: Greenwich NY

Post Sun. Mar. 07, 2010 8:11 pm

Thanks , that makes sense. Never replacing gaskets I think I read somewhere here that you can buy gaskets with adhesive on one side to make the job easier. Anyone recall that post?

Nighthawkgt21
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Stove/Furnace Make: Alaska channing 3

Post Mon. Nov. 26, 2012 12:34 pm

Hi, I'm new here and I've been having trouble with a slight sulfur smell. I'd like to change my gaskets but the place where I bought my stove wants $170 to change the gaskets. I watched videos and read forums on changing gaskets and am fairly mechanically inclined. The only problem is I can't find anywhere what size and length of gaskets to purchase. Any help would be very much appreciated


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Flyer5
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Stoker Coal Boiler: Leisure Line WL110
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Leisure Line Pioneer
Location: Montrose PA
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Post Mon. Nov. 26, 2012 6:23 pm

Nighthawkgt21 wrote:Hi, I'm new here and I've been having trouble with a slight sulfur smell. I'd like to change my gaskets but the place where I bought my stove wants $170 to change the gaskets. I watched videos and read forums on changing gaskets and am fairly mechanically inclined. The only problem is I can't find anywhere what size and length of gaskets to purchase. Any help would be very much appreciated
If the stove is operating at the proper draft, you should not be getting any sulfur smell even if gaskets are slightly worn. Check your pipes and draft. Do you see sweat on the hopper lid?
http://www.leisurelinestove.com


You know when people say it was "better back in my day"?

They were right.

Nighthawkgt21
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Stove/Furnace Make: Alaska channing 3

Post Mon. Nov. 26, 2012 8:38 pm

I really cleaned my stove pipes and vents inside the stove itself, I wanna see if that remedies the issue. So far neither my wife nor I have noticed any condensation.

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Flyer5
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Stoker Coal Boiler: Leisure Line WL110
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Post Mon. Nov. 26, 2012 8:53 pm

Nighthawkgt21 wrote:I really cleaned my stove pipes and vents inside the stove itself, I wanna see if that remedies the issue. So far neither my wife nor I have noticed any condensation.
Should get a draft meter or manometer and verify to be safe. What kind of baro do you have. If it is the calibrated Fields controls it will at least give you an idea if you have enough. But not a 100% positive indication. Some dealers will rent or let you borrow one. Or you can find them pretty inexpensive. Search the forum lots of ideas.
http://www.leisurelinestove.com


You know when people say it was "better back in my day"?

They were right.

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