Harmon Magnum Stoker With a Power Venter???

Hi, I first posted in the helpdesk, same subject, think that was the wrong place, oops!!! This time i'll keep it simple.. Can I use a Power Venter with a Harman Magnum or new Super Magnum Stoker??? Has anyone done this??? If so anything I need to know??? I most likley would be ditching the Harman factory stoker controls for a coal-trol unit at which point I know I would be able to at least integrate the power venter directly into the control process, at least I think so??? What to do with the fume switch??? And I know I will need a barometric damper, that part's obvious!!! Thanks for any input you may have on this topic.

Adam in S.E. Pa.

you should be able to run a power vent with a Mag Stoker. If you switch controls to CoalTrol, depending on the model, it has an input for the Fume Switch, to shut the stove down if there is a problem in the exhaust.

As Dave stated you will nbeed the Coal-Trol with the interlock for a WM0-1 fume switch. This will be installed in the stove body so as to sense firebox draft pressure (if you lose draft the heat lasses out past the switch and shuts down the feed and combustion air thus shutting off the stove.

I used a Field Controls 4HDSS power venter with fume switch and Coal-Trol for a year or so with a Harman Magnum, will work fine for you. Not sure about the Super Magnum, looked at the manual. Is basically a DVC500 stoker assembly on a modified magnum body with some modified pellet stove controls and a convection fan on the bottom where you can't get at it. If it were me I would buy a used magnum, add the Coal-Trol and power vent and end up with a better setup... just based on what I can see by looking at the Super magnum manual.

Best of luck with your project.

Thank you both Dave and Matthaus for your thoughts. Very helpful and I as Matthaus said, I tend to agree with the magnum versus the super magnum, and will most likley go that route.

Another question regarding placement of the fume switch, where is the best place to tap into a magnum for proper function of the fume switch without false trips shutting down the stove??? Side, back, above the burn, above/below the bricks, below the grate, etc. ??? I can handle any mods and or fab work that need to be done so with that said what is the absolute best way to do this in your experience?

Thanks again for the great replies

Adam in S.E. Pa.

I usually place them on the side toward the rear just below the level of the grate, that way a really hot fire will not have the chance to trip the switch by accident. On the Magnums the back wall is the hot air jacket so not really a great place to be drilling holes! I've installed them on around 10 stoves (Harman, Alaska, LL, and Keystoker)) and so far no issues with placement. I just use a bi-metal hole saw to make the hole and use the gasket supplied with the switch or some RTV if it is a used switch for sealing around the switch tube.. I would test it after installation to make sure it shuts down the stove when draft is lost.

Best of luck with your search.

Cool deal, thanks Matthaus, sounds like a plan!!!

Any recommendations on where to purchase a power venter new for a good price?? I was quoted $525.00 for an Alaska SWG venter with WMO-1 fume switch. That a good price? Or can I buy a field controls unit (I realize the Alaska venter is a field controls SWG series venter) from a HVAC supply house for less money??? Thanks man!!!

Adam

Yes you can buy from local wholesale plumbing house. The best deal out there is the Leisure Line Kit, comes with a barometric damper, fume switch, rheostat wired to the power vent, and the 4'X6" adapter. You will also need a manometer to measure draft. I sent you a PM, I happen to have a used one with all the stuff except the barometric damper ($28 from your local plumbing supply).