bustedwing wrote:Sounds too much like work!Vacuumed,scraped with wire brush/scraper,put a drop light(40 watt bulb) down thru the top vent,stuffed some newspaper around the opening and hoping for the best. RichB
Painting the Inside of Your Stove: Results Are in
What u did is fine but you should also spray on corrosion X or LP3 to keep the metal from oxidizing.
Last edited by traderfjp on Wed. May. 06, 2009 7:58 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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30 years a go I worked on a state bridge repair crew. There was a particular bridge in a hostile environment that the state used for testing. We cleaned it up extra good and they brought in this guy with a spray on coating set up. It could spray ceramics and zinc that I remember. It used an acetylene torch and had a special gun to spray the coating. They used zinc and showed us a bunch of test plates he had done. You could shoot them with a .22 and pound them with a ballpeen hammer and not knock it off. Seems like this would work pretty well. Probably best done when the stove is brand new to have it as clean as possible but a good sandblasting should clean it out. No idea what it was called.
Kevin
Kevin
Old thread but thinking of an option for that. Anyone ever used cerokote ?
States 1800 degrees. Was considering that for anything above the fire chamber/fuel area since anything refractory probably wouldn’t be needed (or wanted) there.
And probably going to use a zircon citing in the cast iron in the burn box before I put refractory cement liner in.
Nothing is forever, just trying to buy time. Lol.
States 1800 degrees. Was considering that for anything above the fire chamber/fuel area since anything refractory probably wouldn’t be needed (or wanted) there.
And probably going to use a zircon citing in the cast iron in the burn box before I put refractory cement liner in.
Nothing is forever, just trying to buy time. Lol.
- davidmcbeth3
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I get rust on my 503. Has zero to do with moisture, all to do with cheap metal and oxygen.
The removable hopper is where I see most. Its a $100 replacement part, replacing ever 3 seasons. Hitzer has changed the design slightly. But seems not to do much better. Its not a big deal but the stove will fail (at max) of 20 yrs I figure due to rust. I'm at 15 yrs .. I inspect the stove closely after every season.
Still been good stove, I recommend.
The removable hopper is where I see most. Its a $100 replacement part, replacing ever 3 seasons. Hitzer has changed the design slightly. But seems not to do much better. Its not a big deal but the stove will fail (at max) of 20 yrs I figure due to rust. I'm at 15 yrs .. I inspect the stove closely after every season.
Still been good stove, I recommend.
- davidmcbeth3
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I get rust on my 503. Has zero to do with moisture, all to do with cheap metal and oxygen.
The removable hopper is where I see most. Its a $100 replacement part, replacing ever 3 seasons. Hitzer has changed the design slightly. But seems not to do much better. Its not a big deal but the stove will fail (at max) of 20 yrs I figure due to rust. I'm at 15 yrs .. I inspect the stove closely after every season.
Still been good stove, I recommend. Coldhouse has a spare in his basement. Maybe get that one if he's OK with that.
The removable hopper is where I see most. Its a $100 replacement part, replacing ever 3 seasons. Hitzer has changed the design slightly. But seems not to do much better. Its not a big deal but the stove will fail (at max) of 20 yrs I figure due to rust. I'm at 15 yrs .. I inspect the stove closely after every season.
Still been good stove, I recommend. Coldhouse has a spare in his basement. Maybe get that one if he's OK with that.
- davidmcbeth3
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https://www.cerakote.com/cerakote-vs-other-coatin ... VsHighTemp
Its a spray coating I think. Another for OP to try and report back.
Gotta prep the surface, as normal for any coating operation.
Its a spray coating I think. Another for OP to try and report back.
Gotta prep the surface, as normal for any coating operation.
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i just vacuum and let it rust, as for the hopper, when pinholes started showing up in the narrow end plates took a painted back cover off an old clothes dryer cut pieces to fit and bolted them in place, 5-6 years and they aint rusting yet. When pinholes start in the stove body i might try something similar, course i'm on a power vent so any leaks air gets sucked into the stove and co doesn't leak out.#1 cheapskate.
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Agree. I wouldn't waste my time and money applying any coatings to the inside of a stove. The only way I would consider that would be with a brand new stove and a proven product.bustedwing wrote: ↑Tue. Oct. 17, 2023 6:17 ami just vacuum and let it rust, as for the hopper, when pinholes started showing up in the narrow end plates took a painted back cover off an old clothes dryer cut pieces to fit and bolted them in place, 5-6 years and they aint rusting yet. When pinholes start in the stove body i might try something similar, course i'm on a power vent so any leaks air gets sucked into the stove and co doesn't leak out.#1 cheapskate.
My old Alaska has been in use for over 40 years simply by disassembling the stove and cleaning at the end of the season...a job I don't look forward to, but do it anyway. Scrape and vacuum the fly ash off the stove interior as best I can and use compressed air to blow off all the parts I remove. The most important part, I believe, is to leave the cleaned stove and parts open to airflow and keep in a relatively dry environment. I don't use any heat sources or desiccants, but some, in a very humid areas may need to. I also remove the stove pipe, carefully take it outside and empty it as best as I can.
Every season it rusts some. I expect, at some time, to get some rust thru somewhere but I'll deal with that when it happens. This simple method has worked for me.
I got this stove when it was just a couple of years old and not taken care of. The ash pan door had already rusted thru and I had to repair it. In over 40 years, this was the only metal repair I've had to do, which shows how fast the metal will corrode when not cleaned.
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When I had the hand fed furnace in the basement I would vacuum it out and literally wash it out with the hose. Once dry I would use a paint brush and brush the whole interior with motor oil, given that my basement is a swamp in the summer. It seemed to work really good for inhibiting decay. In my opinion, I cant see any paint holding up on the interior of a fire box.
- Richard S.
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Washing the inside of the stove and/or flue pipes with a solution of water and baking soda will help neutralize the acids for summer storage. Cheap and effective.
What about that ceramic liner with zircon used in kilns ? It’s a refractory type stuff, but not castable cement, just an extra film that goes ON the brick/liner etc.
would the cast iron expansion be too much for something like that?
would the cast iron expansion be too much for something like that?