Keystoker Koker 160 Furnance Advice

the 'take-off' starting collar you bought for your stove needs to be cut before you install it. the 'tiger-teeth' bottom of the 'take-off' were made longer than usual to accomodate many types of sheet metal installation needs. use a pair of sheet metal shears and extend the teeth (v-area) up to the bottom of your hole cut. about 3/4" of the tooth should be left so you can bend it with your fingers to grab the inside of the hole in your stove & insure a tight starting collar fit, before you install the rest of the pipe.

here's a pic of how it should look once you've made the cuts.

you can also use a piece of sheet metal with 2 magnets to block the front distribution airway of the stove, so the heat goes up the pipe. experiment with you blockage though, so a portion of the heat still goes in the room your stove is installed.

best regards,
tom

If you look at my second posting (Wtih Temp. Gauge), I found a better collar that fits tighter to the stove (like the one you are refereing to), I am returning the first one with the longer tabs. One the first one, I know I needed to cut the tabs to make it fit, didn't want to waste my time, plus the other one was $2 cheaper.

Already figured out the vent block. The stove will be in the basement, so the airflow out the front is not needed, the radiant heat from the sides will be enough in the basement.

Hi all,

I have a magnum stoker and want to duct from the top of stove. There is already a pre-drilled plate that can be removed but where do I get a starting collar to begin running duct pipe? where can I find the magnets I read on here to block the front output slot?

Jimbo

Dave, can you take a photo of the inside of the hole you cut? I'm curious how deep the air passageway is on the top of the stove. And are there any stiffeners or ribs welded to the top of the firebox that add heated surface area to the duct?

If not, you might consider setting a few 8" long pieces of 1/4"x 2" angle on the top of the firebox plate. They should heat well, and add surface area to conduct more heat to the air in the duct.

You could try a few pieces, then monitor with your thermometer to see if they have any affect on the output air temp. Just thinking how to raise that output temp.

Greg L

The starter collar/duct can be found at any hardware store (Home Depot, lowes, etc...) I used 8", but it comes in different sizes 2, 4, 6, 8, 10" etc...you can also get black too.

YOu can just use a little piece of sheet metal to make a cover plate with tabs into the vent hole and just bend to fit.

Greg - no stiffeners on the outer shell, just a few on the inside of the firebox, there is about 2" in the front and around 4-5" in the rear of the stove, the fire box actually slopes down towards the back. If you look closely at the pics (Vent #3), you can see the discoloration on the side of the stove which indicates the firebox separation from the air flow around it. I also took a flashlight and looked in the top vent from the front to make sure nothing was obstructing my hole before cutting.

I will experiment with different air deflecting schemes.....!!

I may have to put an inline fan to help boost the airflow upstairs as shown in attachment.

So far so good!!

I wonder what temps those plastic blades can handle?? May want to put that fan down the duct ten feet or so!!

I think hooking the cold air return to the base of the stove will net you the best heat output. Rather than heating the basement air and sending it upstairs.

I'm looking forward to hearing the results after the actual install in the new house.

Got a closing and moving date yet??

Greg L

That fan is just a sample, I think you can get them with metal blades, I will check more into it. The plenum pipework will only be about 6 feet or so, I might be okay with it and place towards the end closest to the existing plenum. I don't know until I try it!

I found another source of blower with the metal blades good to 266 Degrees!
**Broken Link(s) Removed**
Yes, I will hook up the blower input from the coal stove to the cold air return on the furnance. May have to put a bigger blower in.

No closing date yet, but hopefully hear something this week or next!!
I can't wait to try it too!!

Thanks!

I have the Keystoker 90, but without the direct vent, so my 6" flue is where your hole for heat is cut, I wonder how far in front of the flue I would have to cut to do the same thing? Right now I have a 45 degree duct vent on the front where the long opening is and a tee with flex duct going up to my ductwork upstairs, also have one of those booster fans inline. Any info would be appreciated.