Condensation on Hopper Lid and slight sulphur smell

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Kjensen
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Post by Kjensen » Mon. Mar. 22, 2021 11:32 am

Hello I have tried searching these threads to find information on this, but it seems each time I find something on the right track it was from 07/08 and is no longer an active thread.

I woke up this morning to find condensation built up in my hopper, days are 45-70 right now and nights are 15-40 which is when the stove is in need obviously. During the days I have to turn the stove down to a bare minimum feed at the top combustion fan speed to maintain the burn. I have a Type "RC" baro draft control installed. I was able to have it set somewhere around 4-6 on the counterweight's scale, I assume that is to represent .04-.06 inH20 from what I've read in other posts. I do not have a manometer so I couldn't tell you what it would read inside the box or at the breech.

I am mainly curious if I am supposed to up the scale to decrease the draft or go down the scale to decrease the draft, and I mean in the numbers. Ie is 2 a larger draft than 4, or is it the other way around?

Additionally, what other ways would you recommend to avoid this issue in the future? As from my understanding this can cause CO emissions, and hopper fires.

 
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coaledsweat
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Post by coaledsweat » Mon. Mar. 22, 2021 12:26 pm

Higher number, more draft. When it warms up the baro usually does nothing anyway. Try putting some tinfoil over the baro to seal it up or maybe crack a window? Warmer weather tends to reduce draft quite a bit.

 
Kjensen
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Post by Kjensen » Mon. Mar. 22, 2021 12:34 pm

coaledsweat wrote:
Mon. Mar. 22, 2021 12:26 pm
Higher number, more draft. When it warms up the baro usually does nothing anyway. Try putting some tinfoil over the baro to seal it up or maybe crack a window? Warmer weather tends to reduce draft quite a bit.
Thank you for this! So then I would want to decrease it to have a lower draft, since the strong draft is likely causing this? Though the issue did start when I had the counterweight on .02, and it was by no means warm outside last night and this morning as it was in the 20s until about 9am.

*Edit* I did turn off the stove out of safety concerns and the lack of needing it during the day today.

 
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nepacoal
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Post by nepacoal » Mon. Mar. 22, 2021 12:43 pm

-.02 is dangerously low for a stoker... Without a manometer, I'd set my counterweight on -.05 or -.055 to be on the safe side. Then order a manometer so you can see what it's actually doing.


 
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tsb
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Post by tsb » Mon. Mar. 22, 2021 1:32 pm

When I get moisture on the hopper lid it means it's time to clean the lower and upper elbow on the stove pipe. I also check with a look up the flue to make sure its' clear of birds etc.

 
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coaledsweat
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Post by coaledsweat » Mon. Mar. 22, 2021 4:56 pm

You do not have a strong draft, probably why this is occurring. Late in the season the stovepipe may be choked with ash as suggested in tsb's post. The barometric damper can only limit the high side of your draft. It does nothing below that except bleed a little air to the chimney.

 
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nepacoal
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Post by nepacoal » Mon. Mar. 22, 2021 5:09 pm

coaledsweat wrote:
Mon. Mar. 22, 2021 4:56 pm
You do not have a strong draft, probably why this is occurring. Late in the season the stovepipe may be chocked with ash as suggested in tsb's post. The barometric damper can only limit the high side of your draft. It does nothing below that except bleed a little air to the chimney.
Or bleed exhaust into your house if set too low...

 
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StanT
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Post by StanT » Tue. Mar. 23, 2021 6:09 am

Are you putting cold coal in the hopper? Cold coal sweats, Happened to my sister.


 
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McGiever
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Post by McGiever » Tue. Mar. 23, 2021 9:24 am

***Better keep working carbon-monoxide detectors***

Trying to save or not waste 50 cents worth of coal likely isn't going to be worth it...

Simply stated coal combustion, like other fuels combustion produces H2O as a byproduct. Think of automobile exhaust with cold exhaust pipe and you see vapors that condense and drip out tail pipe until pipe temp reaches non-condensing temp.
Having wet coal does contribute but always know that even dry coal chemically produces H2O as a normal combustion operation.
Normally this H2O is carried away along with other byproducts (sulpher CO CO2 etc) in the exhaust stream unnoticed.

Now under conditions of reduced or impaired exhaust (draft) this H2O vapors etc. will condense when coming in contact will cooler condensing tempurature surfaces...the only surface that the casual observer will notice is on the underside of the hopper lid...but really there are similar cooler surfaces that go unnoticed doing the very same condensing...
Solution to prevent or stop condensed H2O on underside of hopper lid:

Better stronger draft
Hotter fire
Warmer hopper lid
All of the above plus simply open some damn windows so house doesn't over heat
Late in coal burning season also brings partial blocked by fly ash stove pipes into question...don't overlook!!!!

 
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Post by lincolnmania » Wed. Mar. 24, 2021 3:11 am

Usually when that happened to my stoves there was a significant ash buildup in the chimney pipe elbows.

 
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Post by Kjensen » Fri. Mar. 26, 2021 3:22 pm

Hello all thought I would update this.

I cleaned out the chimney pipe going from my stove to the wall, and cleaned the exhaust opening on the stove, and cleaned the flue inside of the stove.

Threw my starter bags on and the stove took off perfectly! Not a single wisp of smoke venting anywhere other than the flue and chimney. Thanks for the advice. Realized I missed the pipe when I had shut down the stove for it's burn grate/hopper feed cleaning the other week.

 
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Post by freetown fred » Fri. Mar. 26, 2021 5:32 pm

Ain't it grande when a plan comes together K!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :)

 
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McGiever
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Post by McGiever » Sat. Mar. 27, 2021 10:11 am

And thanks for the update...you have helped many others by doing so. :)

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