Keystoker 105

Hello everyone, I am currently repairing the bushing on the pusher bar motor due to a hopper fire and trying to remove coal burn plates to clean underneath properly and reseal. My first question is after I removed my pusher bar and motar to clean it I noticed the four screws on each side of bar are broken off and the cam is melted around the edges. I went to put it all back together just to see if it would go back easy and the pusher bar is moving all over the place. It seems like it's not being held in place. It does not move when I put power to the stove but the cam is moving. Do I need those eight screws to hold it in place? Second question is I've broken both bolts off below the nut on the burn plate bolts and the nuts will not turn while holding a flat head on top due to corrosion. I can't get a hack saw between nut and bottom of burn plate so how the heck can I get these two bolts out so I can get the burn plates off? Good thing the burn seasons over.

Be patient A--solutions are NIGH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Did you check the manual?

https://www.keystoker.com/wp-content/uploads/202 ... E-2019.pdf

It looks like assembly of the push bar is on page 11 of 28


Also, No pictures it never happened.

The 8 screws in the push bar assembly are made of nylon and melted along with the nylon cam... They are used to set the side to side spacing of the push bar.

Ok, I love all the knowledge on here. So far I understand I have to replace the nylon screws and cam in order to stop side to side motion. My first challange will be getting the screws out without stripping the threads on the pusher bar. Any ideas for that? And I was wondering will the side screws also stop the front to back slop on the pusher bar?

Front to back movement is normal and controlled by the cam... I can pull and push my feed bar by hand past the cam movements to feed extra coal if I wanted... it's normal. Carefully drill out the nylon screws. Or it may be possible to use a pair of needle nose and unscrew what's left from the inside. heatinc100 has about 10 videos on YouTube on how to repair the feeder assembly.

I have attempted to drill out the screws but everyone is melted into the threads so I'm going to buy the pusher bar assembly. There is no way for me to get the melted nylon out. Unless I buy the screws and try to screw them in and push out the nylon but I don't think that will work.

After carefully drilled out most of broken nylon bolt use a bolt tap of proper size and TPI to clear the remainder.

Then study to learn how to never let happen ever again...

Yea, I tried to "Carefully" drill them out but unfortunently I see some metal shavings and the threads are not looking to good. Hopefully the dealer doesent destroy me on the price of a new one. My next challenge will be to get the cam and pusher bar and try to reassemble so that it all works properly, which for me is always an issue. I'm now trying to get the burner grate bolts out. I think im gonna have to use a dremal. The flat head screwdriver side with a sqared nut is not ideal to remove after all the corrosion.

Dremel with a cutting wheel is your friend there. Just replace it with something similar from the hardware store.

Big mike, that's exactly what I did! It's about the only way.

typically with a hopper fire, you have an air leak somewhere, sometimes on the back of grate or you are pulling too much draft and it burns too far back on the grate and pull air from the hopper. You check your draft with a gauge and make sure the grate is sealed all the way around. I have had my Keystoker 90K for over 15 years and never had a problem with it. I monitor draft (direct vent) with a gauge on the stove and keep the grate sealed good after cleaning.

I have the stove back together. I had a ton of fines under the burn grate. My question is coyld the fines stop the flow of combustion through the holes enough to push air to the hopper instead causing the hopper fire? I am asking because it did not look like I had any leaks around my cement along the back of the grates. I am also wondering if you would be able to see the coal band moving back towards the hopper if you were watching it? Seems like you would have to be able to see it in order for it to reach the hopper? I have a manometer and use it but how often should I check the draft during the winter? When I bought the stove they told me I would not need a barometric damper on it and that a Manometer would be fine. It's a direct vent keystoker 105 as previously mentioned. I have resealed everything but after the hopper fire I'm now scared.

Ton of fines under burner grate will cause a hopper fire every time!

Yup, you could easily see that the fire edge wasn't as far forward as it should be.

Hint: Most time the fire line goes from mostly straight to that of resembling a "smiley face".

Avoid loading fines into the hopper in the first place and whatever fines gets by try to keep those fines from building up excessively under the grate and be sure the grates have no air gaps...seal around grate sections with furnace cement during shut-down.

Thanks for the reply! The fines being under the great caused my issue I believe. When you said smiley face I knew what you were saying because that is exactly what the band looked like.
Thanks again