Keystoker 90 not heating cabin

 
CJ585
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Post by CJ585 » Thu. May. 14, 2020 7:35 pm

Hello’
My best friends keystoker 90 direct vent stove for one reason or another is not heating his 768 ft2 Cabin. It’s was brand new in the fall. It’s at his camp so it’s barley ever used. This seems impossible to me unless something is net setup correctly.
I have a Keystoker 105 stove in my house and I love it. It heated our whole house.
For this reason I recommend one to my buddy. He complains to me every time he can’t get it working. He’s not a DIY type of person. I feel a level of responsibility to fix this for him. Mind you, I only had 1 season of a great experience.
Like I said, He’s got a brand new direct vent setup that has only been lit 3 times. He complains a ton over the phone and sucks at even attempting to trouble shoot things.
I’m looking for any tips for things to look into when I get there. Now I feel the need to get this working so I don’t have to hear him cry.

Thank you to everyone for the help.

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Post by franco b » Thu. May. 14, 2020 7:43 pm

Obviously a proper fire is the first thing to look for.

 
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Post by CJ585 » Thu. May. 14, 2020 7:54 pm

He said he had a hard time starting it. But did get it going. He never set the draft. Maybe that’s the issue. I know they are supposed to come from the factory pretty close. But maybe it’s out of adjustment?

 
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Post by franco b » Thu. May. 14, 2020 7:57 pm

I think you will see the problem pretty quickly with your experience with a similar unit.

 
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Post by WNY » Fri. May. 15, 2020 5:27 pm

does he have a Thermostat or coaltrol hooked up? , maybe it never comes off idle or not set correctly and depending on what he has it set at. it should roast him out (depending on the cabin, insulation, etc...) at full burn in that small of a cabin. does it ever get to a full burn, or just a small portion (about 1").?

if the draft isn't set correctly, it could burn back on the grate, and possibly melt the cam for the pusher block then it will never feed correctly.

a good cleaning, under the grate, pusher area and visual inspection should be done. theres some good articles on here on cleaning these stoves.

Draft needs to be set correctly also. it should be close from factory, but without a gauge, you cannot tell.

I;ve had my Keystoker 90/direct vent for over 15 years and have only replaced the combustion blower. it runs good.
Last edited by WNY on Sat. May. 16, 2020 6:28 am, edited 1 time in total.

 
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Post by franco b » Fri. May. 15, 2020 9:29 pm

Expectation is also a factor. If that cabin and everything in it is down to freezing or below, it will take a long time to get the temperature up.

 
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Post by McGiever » Sat. May. 16, 2020 10:20 am

Direct vent and cabin ...mouse nest...hopefully not bees next...

 
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Post by CJ585 » Fri. May. 22, 2020 6:36 pm

Hey guys,
Just set the draft on my buddies stove. It’s damper weight is maxed out to the left and the manometer is reading -.03. It was at -.04.
I hope this fixes the issue. Does this seem like it will fix the issue? Does the draft seem acceptable?

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Post by nepacoal » Fri. May. 22, 2020 6:44 pm

Are you measuring the draft through the hole in the ash door as described in the manual? Taking the reading in the stovepipe will not work on a stoker stove...

Check Draft
After starting a fire and a consistent fire is established, the chimney will be warm enough to check draft.
1. Remove Allen screw located in ash door and insert draft gauge into hole in ash door. The draft range should not go lower than -.02, nor above -.03. The air
shutter on combustion motor and/or the barometric damper on stove pipe may be used to obtain proper draft readings.
a. If draft goes above -.03 adjust barometric damper to open a little wider.
b. If draft goes below -.02 close air shutter on combustion motor.
c. Check for debris in exhaust chamber & stack

 
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Post by CJ585 » Fri. May. 22, 2020 7:11 pm

Nepacoal,
When you refer to the air shutter on the combustion motor, is that the shutter flapper in the above picture?

 
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Post by coaledsweat » Fri. May. 22, 2020 7:29 pm

Switch the hose you have connected to the meter to the other port. The fluid should move to the right.

 
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Post by CJ585 » Fri. May. 22, 2020 8:02 pm

Ok,
I adjusted the air shutter on the combustion motor and it had no effect on the manometer. I added a washer to the weight on the damper and the manometer now reads perfect at -.02.
Is this an acceptable practice?
When I switch the tube to the low side of the manometer it reads +.02.
Thoughts?

 
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Post by CJ585 » Fri. May. 22, 2020 8:07 pm

Here are pictures of the current setup.

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Post by Lightning » Fri. May. 22, 2020 8:08 pm

CJ585 wrote:
Fri. May. 22, 2020 8:02 pm
When I switch the tube to the low side of the manometer it reads +.02.
Thoughts?
This is just so you have more of the scale to use.. it's still reading negative pressure, of course :)

 
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Post by Lightning » Fri. May. 22, 2020 8:10 pm

I believe the reasoning for keeping the pressure between .02 and .03 is so that heat isnt yanked out of the stove and up the chimney excessively..

I also have added a washer to the baro door to make it more sensitive when I ran a hand fed furnace.

The baro will be easier to set during colder weather when the chimney is drafting good.

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