New to stokers please help

 
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McGiever
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Posts: 8454
Joined: Sun. May. 02, 2010 11:26 pm
Location: Junction of PA-OH-WV
Stoker Coal Boiler: AXEMAN-ANDERSON 130 "1959"
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: BUCKET A DAY water heater
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Warm Morning 414A
Coal Size/Type: RICE,PEA,NUT,STOVE /ANTHRACITE and EGG / BIT
Other Heating: Ground Source Heat Pump and some Solar

Post by McGiever » Thu. Nov. 07, 2019 12:54 pm

No problem. :)

With an "air wash" some stoves have missing window gasket on each vertical side low. If open to allow some small amount of air in that "washes" the glass with air to keep it cleaner for longer...someone else or read in the manual would have to say if this arrangement was a feature on your Magnum Stoker window...sometimes the gap is misunderstood and gets replaced with new gasket without leaving the missing pieces to be open.

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titleist1
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Posts: 5026
Joined: Wed. Nov. 14, 2007 4:06 pm
Location: Cecil County, MD
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Harman Mag Stoker - one in basement, one in workshop
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Harman Mark III on standby for long power outages
Coal Size/Type: Rice/Anthracite; Nut/Anthracite

Post by titleist1 » Thu. Nov. 07, 2019 2:55 pm

Some other items to check and or service before firing it up...It may sound like a lot but most are quick and easy...

Clean the squirrel cage fans blades to maximize air flow. lots of q tips and wd40 or something similar will get the gunk off the blades.

oil ports on top of the pusher block bearing should get a drop or two of oil, removing the hopper will give easy access to them. little flip top covers over the ports are visible.

check the hopper for rust damage, clean and spray with some paint for protection

check the width of the fork in the stoker area, should be close to 1-3/4", too wide and it causes feed issues

vac out any coal fines & dust in the stoker housing behind and around the pusher block

check the pusher block threaded rod to make sure it is screwed all the way into the pusher block.

check the door gaskets and replace if necessary...1/2" rope gasket is used there. You want the doors to seal snugly.

make sure you have an adjustable plate on the intake of the combustion fan. you will need to limit the air a bit going into the stoker or it will pressurize the firebox. in the absence of this plate a couple flat refrigerator magnets work well. I think thats the most dangerous mistake i see people make with these since too much combustion air will send CO out into the room rather than up the chimney.

get a manometer to connect to the flu pipe so you can monitor your draft and make sure youhave air adjusted correctly

get a couple CO monitors to put around, the kind with a numeric display so you can see an issue even before the alarm sounds.

don't worry too much about the glass being clear...as long as you can see the orange glow through it and its not cracked it serves its purpose.

 
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coalkirk
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Posts: 5026
Joined: Wed. May. 17, 2006 8:12 pm
Location: Forest Hill MD
Stoker Coal Boiler: 1981 EFM DF520
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Jotul 507 on standby
Coal Size/Type: Lehigh anthracite/rice coal

Post by coalkirk » Thu. Nov. 07, 2019 4:16 pm

Jsaabwag wrote:
Thu. Nov. 07, 2019 8:21 am
Yes I did that this morning. The picture attached to the first post is how they were before I moved them around (pictured above hopefully). The gap inbetween is alot smaller. I found a thread were you said you referb these stoves, hope you dont mind if I ask you some questions. Do I need to worry about the rust on the door seals? I saw at the stores they sell glass cleaner, is there any thing I want to avoid when cleaning the glass? anything else super important to check before I fire it up?
No I don't mind at all. I don't really refurb them anymore. The market for used coal stoves is not what it once was. I mostly did it for fun but it was nice to make a few bucks in the process.

 
Jsaabwag
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Posts: 24
Joined: Tue. Nov. 05, 2019 6:24 pm
Hot Air Coal Stoker Furnace: Harman magnum
Coal Size/Type: Rice

Post by Jsaabwag » Thu. Nov. 07, 2019 5:34 pm

titleist1 wrote:
Thu. Nov. 07, 2019 2:55 pm
Some other items to check and or service before firing it up...It may sound like a lot but most are quick and easy...

Clean the squirrel cage fans blades to maximize air flow. lots of q tips and wd40 or something similar will get the gunk off the blades.

oil ports on top of the pusher block bearing should get a drop or two of oil, removing the hopper will give easy access to them. little flip top covers over the ports are visible.

check the hopper for rust damage, clean and spray with some paint for protection

check the width of the fork in the stoker area, should be close to 1-3/4", too wide and it causes feed issues

vac out any coal fines & dust in the stoker housing behind and around the pusher block

check the pusher block threaded rod to make sure it is screwed all the way into the pusher block.

check the door gaskets and replace if necessary...1/2" rope gasket is used there. You want the doors to seal snugly.

make sure you have an adjustable plate on the intake of the combustion fan. you will need to limit the air a bit going into the stoker or it will pressurize the firebox. in the absence of this plate a couple flat refrigerator magnets work well. I think thats the most dangerous mistake i see people make with these since too much combustion air will send CO out into the room rather than up the chimney.

get a manometer to connect to the flu pipe so you can monitor your draft and make sure youhave air adjusted correctly

get a couple CO monitors to put around, the kind with a numeric display so you can see an issue even before the alarm sounds.

don't worry too much about the glass being clear...as long as you can see the orange glow through it and its not cracked it serves its purpose.
I'm not sure what you mean by the fork in the stoker area

 
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titleist1
Member
Posts: 5026
Joined: Wed. Nov. 14, 2007 4:06 pm
Location: Cecil County, MD
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Harman Mag Stoker - one in basement, one in workshop
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Harman Mark III on standby for long power outages
Coal Size/Type: Rice/Anthracite; Nut/Anthracite

Post by titleist1 » Thu. Nov. 07, 2019 11:12 pm

in the rear of the stove by the motor that drives the pusher block there is a 'fork' that is part of the drive linkage. the space between the tines of that fork should be very close to 1.75". Too wide and it will not feed the coal effectively.

 
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McGiever
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Posts: 8454
Joined: Sun. May. 02, 2010 11:26 pm
Location: Junction of PA-OH-WV
Stoker Coal Boiler: AXEMAN-ANDERSON 130 "1959"
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: BUCKET A DAY water heater
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Warm Morning 414A
Coal Size/Type: RICE,PEA,NUT,STOVE /ANTHRACITE and EGG / BIT
Other Heating: Ground Source Heat Pump and some Solar

Post by McGiever » Thu. Nov. 07, 2019 11:33 pm

And only to add to what *titelist1* provided, that 'fork' can get spread open if the aluminum pusher block encounters too much resistance while pushing in it's slot from build up of wet or dry coal fines or maybe a stone or something jamming there. That spreading of the 'fork' saves from burning up a $400.00 gearmotor.

 
Jsaabwag
Member
Posts: 24
Joined: Tue. Nov. 05, 2019 6:24 pm
Hot Air Coal Stoker Furnace: Harman magnum
Coal Size/Type: Rice

Post by Jsaabwag » Fri. Nov. 08, 2019 7:48 am

titleist1 wrote:
Thu. Nov. 07, 2019 2:55 pm
Some other items to check and or service before firing it up...It may sound like a lot but most are quick and easy...

Clean the squirrel cage fans blades to maximize air flow. lots of q tips and wd40 or something similar will get the gunk off the blades.

oil ports on top of the pusher block bearing should get a drop or two of oil, removing the hopper will give easy access to them. little flip top covers over the ports are visible.

check the hopper for rust damage, clean and spray with some paint for protection

check the width of the fork in the stoker area, should be close to 1-3/4", too wide and it causes feed issues

vac out any coal fines & dust in the stoker housing behind and around the pusher block

check the pusher block threaded rod to make sure it is screwed all the way into the pusher block.

check the door gaskets and replace if necessary...1/2" rope gasket is used there. You want the doors to seal snugly.

make sure you have an adjustable plate on the intake of the combustion fan. you will need to limit the air a bit going into the stoker or it will pressurize the firebox. in the absence of this plate a couple flat refrigerator magnets work well. I think thats the most dangerous mistake i see people make with these since too much combustion air will send CO out into the room rather than up the chimney.

get a manometer to connect to the flu pipe so you can monitor your draft and make sure youhave air adjusted correctly

get a couple CO monitors to put around, the kind with a numeric display so you can see an issue even before the alarm sounds.

don't worry too much about the glass being clear...as long as you can see the orange glow through it and its not cracked it serves its purpose.
The fork, is that the bit that moves the rod back and forth for the pusher block? My stove is a little closer to the wall than it's supposed to be (it is lined with fire resistant dry wall and sheet metal ontop of that) so I cant really get behind it all to well. When it comes to the manometer I'm having trouble searching for answers with this, I'm not the best at searching.. should it be a digital one? Or does it not matter much? I'm stopping by a local store after work today to pick up new grates and stuff to redo the gaskets and will be asking about it then. Just dont wanna over pay

 
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McGiever
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Posts: 8454
Joined: Sun. May. 02, 2010 11:26 pm
Location: Junction of PA-OH-WV
Stoker Coal Boiler: AXEMAN-ANDERSON 130 "1959"
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: BUCKET A DAY water heater
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Warm Morning 414A
Coal Size/Type: RICE,PEA,NUT,STOVE /ANTHRACITE and EGG / BIT
Other Heating: Ground Source Heat Pump and some Solar

Post by McGiever » Fri. Nov. 08, 2019 10:26 am

Look a the manual's pictures...

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Jsaabwag
Member
Posts: 24
Joined: Tue. Nov. 05, 2019 6:24 pm
Hot Air Coal Stoker Furnace: Harman magnum
Coal Size/Type: Rice

Post by Jsaabwag » Fri. Nov. 08, 2019 11:26 am

McGiever wrote:
Fri. Nov. 08, 2019 10:26 am
Look a the manual's pictures...
I did... I only have a pdf and I do not see any mention of a fork anywhere i even downloaded the parts break down for the stove..

 
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McGiever
Member
Posts: 8454
Joined: Sun. May. 02, 2010 11:26 pm
Location: Junction of PA-OH-WV
Stoker Coal Boiler: AXEMAN-ANDERSON 130 "1959"
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: BUCKET A DAY water heater
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Warm Morning 414A
Coal Size/Type: RICE,PEA,NUT,STOVE /ANTHRACITE and EGG / BIT
Other Heating: Ground Source Heat Pump and some Solar

Post by McGiever » Fri. Nov. 08, 2019 1:02 pm

Got to get you up to speed on the Magnum 'slang" :lol:

In the installation manual>>> 6. pusher arm

In the parts manual>>> 9.16 Pusher Arm Weldment 1-10-00025


This a supposed to be scale drawing
Magnum_Coal Fork.pdf
.PDF | 6KB | Magnum_Coal Fork.pdf

 
Qtown1835
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Joined: Sat. Nov. 08, 2014 11:47 am
Location: Quakertown, PA
Stoker Coal Boiler: Keystoker '81 KA4 (online 1/16/17)
Coal Size/Type: Lehigh Rice
Other Heating: EFM SPK600

Post by Qtown1835 » Fri. Nov. 08, 2019 1:52 pm

Regarding the manometer. You can source a Dwyer Mark II 25 for fairly cheap, they are a popular choice. You can also use a magnahelic but they will run you some more $$. The manometer will monitor draft (negative)pressure. Not sure what the recommended pressure is for your stoker. The manual should explain this in better detail. Generically speaking -.06" wc at idle is acceptable for most stoves. Negative pressure will ensure you have enough air entering the stove to keep the coal burning and the CO heading up the chimney.

http://www.dwyer-inst.com/Product/Pressure/Manome ... gJUpPD_BwE

Thread relative to your situation.
Post by Coalnoob - New manometer on Harman Mag Stoker

 
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titleist1
Member
Posts: 5026
Joined: Wed. Nov. 14, 2007 4:06 pm
Location: Cecil County, MD
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Harman Mag Stoker - one in basement, one in workshop
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Harman Mark III on standby for long power outages
Coal Size/Type: Rice/Anthracite; Nut/Anthracite

Post by titleist1 » Fri. Nov. 08, 2019 2:11 pm

McG's got the right manual approved term for the "fork" sorry about that!

Also, the Pillow Blocks mentioned in the manual are the bearings with the oil ports I mentioned earlier.

You should be able to see the "fork from the side of the stove in the rear. (left side as you are standing in front looking at it). Taking the feeder Motor cover off and looking down from the top you will see it.

As mentioned the fork spreads for a reason, make sure to remedy that and then you will want to get it back to spec width so the feed rate is accurate.

I use the Dwyer Mark II Model 25 Q'town mentioned.
For CO monitors I use Kidde Nighthawk. I have 3...one in the basement 10' from the stove, one on the first floor by the stairway where the warm air comes up and one in the bedroom at about the height my head is when sleeping.

 
Jsaabwag
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Posts: 24
Joined: Tue. Nov. 05, 2019 6:24 pm
Hot Air Coal Stoker Furnace: Harman magnum
Coal Size/Type: Rice

Post by Jsaabwag » Sat. Nov. 09, 2019 4:19 am

Located the fork, measures 1.75 so I'm good there. Everything is cleaned except the fans which will be done tonight while the bottom door gasket is drying. I have 4 co detectors now two kiddles that display levels one on the main floor across from where the stove is and one in the master bedroom. Also just two basic ones at the top of each stair case. The difference between the new grates and the old ones is crazy they fit so nicely. The combustion fan does have the cover on it btw I forgot to mention that. You guys have been an amazing help I really appreciate it, I'm really glad I came here instead of just taking the word of the "inspector" (not an actual stove guy) he just wanted to sell me a fancy ss liner. I'm going to be firing up the stove tonight and I cannot wait, it is absolutely freezing and only getting colder

 
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titleist1
Member
Posts: 5026
Joined: Wed. Nov. 14, 2007 4:06 pm
Location: Cecil County, MD
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Harman Mag Stoker - one in basement, one in workshop
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Harman Mark III on standby for long power outages
Coal Size/Type: Rice/Anthracite; Nut/Anthracite

Post by titleist1 » Sat. Nov. 09, 2019 8:17 am

Sounds like you are in countdown mode!! :yes: :yes:

There are some good tips on starting up in some threads, it seems the preferred way from folks who tried it is the 'pellets in a can on the grates' method. I am still using a bag of cowboy charcoal i bought a few years ago, when it runs out I will go to the pellets/can method.

If the chimney is cold I have cheated getting the draft headed the correct way by putting a hair dryer in a T fitting I have strategically located primarily for cleaning out a horizontal section of flue pipe. Opening a basement window until draft is established helps too. It keeps any smoke from coming out around the door glass which minimizes complaints about smoke smell on laundry hanging in the basement!! :P

 
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McGiever
Member
Posts: 8454
Joined: Sun. May. 02, 2010 11:26 pm
Location: Junction of PA-OH-WV
Stoker Coal Boiler: AXEMAN-ANDERSON 130 "1959"
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: BUCKET A DAY water heater
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Warm Morning 414A
Coal Size/Type: RICE,PEA,NUT,STOVE /ANTHRACITE and EGG / BIT
Other Heating: Ground Source Heat Pump and some Solar

Post by McGiever » Sat. Nov. 09, 2019 8:24 am

Great you found the 'fork' and it checks out good.
Were there any 'oiling ports' to oil when you were in to measured the 'fork'?

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