The Deep Freeze Continues - Jan 2018
- lsayre
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- Joined: Wed. Nov. 23, 2005 9:17 pm
- Location: Ohio
- Stoker Coal Boiler: AHS S130 Coal Gun
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I've noticed that our roof thaws before any of the newer homes that surround me. My windows and doors likely go back to 1964. You can feel the wind blowing through the doors. Jack frost visits most of my windows and leaves beautiful ice designs between the window panes. My kitchen window is a single pane casement that leaks like a sieve. Basement and garage windows are single pane disasters, sans for one that the wife and I replaced.
I did put new screen doors on a few years back.
I did put new screen doors on a few years back.
Holy Crap!! I remember hashing out the design on the fine homebuilding website many years ago. Not that it hadn't been done before in some variation but different refinements were worked out there. Funny to see it referenced on that solar website, its good they gave Mike & Tim a mention.loxety wrote: ↑Fri. Jan. 19, 2018 1:23 pmFoam would be the way to go but cellulose was less up front cost and low risk. We live in a historic district so they wont go for us modifying the external look of the building otherwise I'd look at adding an external Mooney wall (https://www.builditsolar.com/Projects/Conservatio ... eyWall.htm). An internal Mooney wall could work to add another R-16-21 if I can get it past the wife
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I do mostly blown in cellulose. Iv taken a lot of walls apart with fibre glass in em the seemed to shrink and it was doing just about nothing . Blown foam is great if not for the price. But yea insulation is just so important. Its amazing when its done right.loxety wrote: ↑Fri. Jan. 19, 2018 1:23 pmFoam would be the way to go but cellulose was less up front cost and low risk. We live in a historic district so they wont go for us modifying the external look of the building otherwise I'd look at adding an external Mooney wall (https://www.builditsolar.com/Projects/Conservatio ... eyWall.htm). An internal Mooney wall could work to add another R-16-21 if I can get it past the wife
- windyhill4.2
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I got to see the results of blown-in insulation sag in wall applications,it leaves absolutely no insulation at the top of the wall cavities.
I would just fasten 2" foil board @ R12 or even Styrofoam @ R ? over the inside of the wall & then use long screws to fasten the drywall. No thermal bridging at all .
I would just fasten 2" foil board @ R12 or even Styrofoam @ R ? over the inside of the wall & then use long screws to fasten the drywall. No thermal bridging at all .
- lsayre
- Member
- Posts: 21781
- Joined: Wed. Nov. 23, 2005 9:17 pm
- Location: Ohio
- Stoker Coal Boiler: AHS S130 Coal Gun
- Coal Size/Type: Lehigh Anthracite Pea
- Other Heating: Resistance Boiler (13.5 KW), ComfortMax 75
Great idea!windyhill4.2 wrote: ↑Fri. Jan. 19, 2018 2:40 pmI would just fasten 2" foil board @ R12 or even Styrofoam @ R ? over the inside of the wall & then use long screws to fasten the drywall. No thermal bridging at all .
- windyhill4.2
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- Joined: Fri. Nov. 22, 2013 2:17 pm
- Location: Jonestown,Pa.17038
- Stoker Coal Boiler: 1960 EFM520 installed in truck box
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Crane 404 with variable blower
- Coal Size/Type: 404-nut, 520 rice ,anthracite for both
Back in 1987 +/- a yr , i helped drywall a huge building that was renovated for college students to rent rooms. The outside walls were solid brick (2 or 3 layers). They were covered with 2" foil board & then we used 3" drywall screws right into the brick to fasten the drywall. Made for a very solid feeling/sounding wall.
2" foam board......how are you working the receptacle / switch boxes with that over the studs???windyhill4.2 wrote: ↑Fri. Jan. 19, 2018 2:40 pmI got to see the results of blown-in insulation sag in wall applications,it leaves absolutely no insulation at the top of the wall cavities.
I would just fasten 2" foil board @ R12 or even Styrofoam @ R ? over the inside of the wall & then use long screws to fasten the drywall. No thermal bridging at all .
I need the "i dunno" emoji for me here!
- Sunny Boy
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They sell box extenders to handle that exact situation. Just four sided box that screws to the box in the wall so that the switch or receptacle is moved out to once again be flush with the new wall surface.
Paul
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Blown in walls must be slightly pressurized. 4-5lbs is enough and you can get that with a good machine. Any more and you may blow the drywall off the wall. Comes with experience. You cant just fill up the void like you do in the attic. Bad fiberglass jobs are much worse with effectively no insulation with a gap around the whole stud cavity and evidence of a lot of air infiltration. And yes the sheet foam is great, almost foolproof.windyhill4.2 wrote: ↑Fri. Jan. 19, 2018 2:40 pmI got to see the results of blown-in insulation sag in wall applications,it leaves absolutely no insulation at the top of the wall cavities.
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You will be amazed at the results just sealing up air leaks will do. You will notice an immediate improvement in cold drafts,comfort and fuel consumption. Any kind of insulation upgrade or air sealing pays big dividends.
I guess they are out there but i never saw an extender that was 2". Closest was 1-1/2" for a 2x board width.
- windyhill4.2
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- Joined: Fri. Nov. 22, 2013 2:17 pm
- Location: Jonestown,Pa.17038
- Stoker Coal Boiler: 1960 EFM520 installed in truck box
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Crane 404 with variable blower
- Coal Size/Type: 404-nut, 520 rice ,anthracite for both
5/8th or heavier plywood fastened to the stud & the box will work great for the extender. This would move the entire existing box out the full 2". OR, run screws thru the back of the box into a 2x scab nailed on the side of the stud.