Tubing question for plumbing hot tub.
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I want to plumb my hot tub for heat with my boiler during the heating season. I'm going to T into the coming and going side of the pump (separate pump for heating) and keep my heaters in the loop. My only question is the normal clear tubing that Aubuchon Hardware has up to the job of heat? I didn't see any temp on it other than 150# pressure@70F. There will be no pressure on this other than the pump pressure and I don't think that is all that high. It's a small plastic pump, not much larger than you'd find on a fish tank.
My temps don't get higher than 160°F at the boiler so between that and a SS heat exchanger I don't see them ever being more than 150°F or so.
The tubing that is on there is 3/4" X 1 1/8"OD. Have no idea how I'd ever find out exactly what it is. Maybe call a Hot Springs dealer? I'd like to get enough to run from the heat exchanger to the tub plus a couple feet for extra oops moments. So 25' would probably do me just fine. On the other hand, I have 3/4" black heater hose. Don't see why that wouldn't work either.
What do you guys think?
My temps don't get higher than 160°F at the boiler so between that and a SS heat exchanger I don't see them ever being more than 150°F or so.
The tubing that is on there is 3/4" X 1 1/8"OD. Have no idea how I'd ever find out exactly what it is. Maybe call a Hot Springs dealer? I'd like to get enough to run from the heat exchanger to the tub plus a couple feet for extra oops moments. So 25' would probably do me just fine. On the other hand, I have 3/4" black heater hose. Don't see why that wouldn't work either.
What do you guys think?
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Lightning, is that how you plumbed into the system as well? Before and after the circ pump? I'd like to keep the electric elements in the loop in case I have a problem with the boiler and need to shut down for anything more than a day or two.
- Lightning
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So how is that going to work exactly? Are you going to disconnect the power to the heating elements so that when the thermostat on the tub calls for heat, it just turns that pump on to push water thru the heat exchanger?
My setup isn't optimal for heating a tub. It merely "keeps it warm" while not in use. My tub settles around 89-93 degrees without the heating elements being turned on (I just simply turn the thermostat down to 80 degrees while not in use) then I set it at 100 a couple hours before I wanna get in. The point of the loop, in my situation, is to just keep it warm between usage which saves huge on the electric bill since it's outside
I use a separate circulation pump that's on continuously. I spliced into a jet line to get it to and from the tub. Tub water actually runs thru the coil, there is no heat exchanger. I would think your situation will be different using a boiler and exchanger.
My setup isn't optimal for heating a tub. It merely "keeps it warm" while not in use. My tub settles around 89-93 degrees without the heating elements being turned on (I just simply turn the thermostat down to 80 degrees while not in use) then I set it at 100 a couple hours before I wanna get in. The point of the loop, in my situation, is to just keep it warm between usage which saves huge on the electric bill since it's outside
I use a separate circulation pump that's on continuously. I spliced into a jet line to get it to and from the tub. Tub water actually runs thru the coil, there is no heat exchanger. I would think your situation will be different using a boiler and exchanger.
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Gotcha. I'll use the heating element outlets to trigger the circulator for the heat exchanger. The circ pump on the tub will take care of the tub side. That way I don't need another pump.
In theory it should work. Then should anything happen with my heat I can just plug the heating elements back in, change a couple valves positions and back in business.
In theory it should work. Then should anything happen with my heat I can just plug the heating elements back in, change a couple valves positions and back in business.
- Lightning
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That sounds like a very reasonable plan to me. At some point when I graduate to a stoker boiler, I'll do the heat exchanger thing to heat the tub exclusively. For now I use the tub's heating elements when I get in the tub.
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I wouldn't bother except I have an HX that I used to use for our pool. It shouldn't even be a blip on the boiler once it's up to temp. Thanks for your thoughts my friend.
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With pics if I can talk the wife into it. You don't want to see my sorry butt out there unless it's snowing so hard I can't be made out.
- hotblast1357
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So your going to have constant circulation through your SS heat exchanger on the boiler side by using the existing circulator for your heat?
As far as what on the hot tub side, whatever is used in the current hot tub water system should work as well to connect to the heat exchanger, unless you somehow get a over heat situation and start putting 200-220 or hotter water through it all.
As far as what on the hot tub side, whatever is used in the current hot tub water system should work as well to connect to the heat exchanger, unless you somehow get a over heat situation and start putting 200-220 or hotter water through it all.
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Nope. The tub side will be continuous. The boiler side of the HX will be run off from the outlets for the factory heating elements. Makes sense to me that when the tub calls for heat those outlets are hot (at 220V). I should have no problem pulling a leg and neutral from them to power both a circulator from my main line and my main line circ.
My boiler is in the garage and is set up now with 2-3 zone relays (had them kicking around). The one in the house operates my indirect circ and my HX blower as well as turning on the main circ in the garage to provide heat. It'll be just one more input controlling the garage circ.
My boiler is in the garage and is set up now with 2-3 zone relays (had them kicking around). The one in the house operates my indirect circ and my HX blower as well as turning on the main circ in the garage to provide heat. It'll be just one more input controlling the garage circ.