Keystoker 90 Problems

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Realtreehunter_3
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Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Keystoker 90
Coal Size/Type: Rice
Other Heating: None
Location: Almond,NY

Post Tue. Jan. 10, 2017 6:16 pm

I took this earlier, it's off the back under the hopper. Shows the back of the pusher bar and a little of the cam.
Attachments
IMG_0034.JPG


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CoalisCoolxWarm
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Stoker Coal Boiler: Keystoker KA-6
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Coal Size/Type: Anthracite Buckwheat
Other Heating: Oil Boiler
Location: Western PA

Post Tue. Jan. 10, 2017 6:32 pm

Okay, that's a start.

You can drop that motor with just a few screws, don't have to remove the whole stoker. *Shouldn't* be coal down there.

Just remember where your feed setting it as taking it back to minimum before reinstalling the motor will eliminate potential issues if the cam is partially turned.

Snag a pic of the cam when it is removed. Get a good focus.

Then we can get a good look at it, as well as you can.

Pain in the butt? A little maybe, but much better to know now if you have a problem that could lead to a pending failure in the middle of the long, cold night ;)
Keystoker KA-6 online January 2015

Realtreehunter_3
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Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Keystoker 90
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Other Heating: None
Location: Almond,NY

Post Tue. Jan. 10, 2017 8:20 pm

Ok so I have taken it out to clean it but I didn't put it back to minimum when I put it in. could that that be my problem?

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2001Sierra
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Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Keystoker 90 Chimney vent
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Location: Wynantskill NY, 10 miles from Albany

Post Tue. Jan. 10, 2017 8:25 pm

I do not understand the adjustment set to minimum importance. The cam is a rotation, and being sure the push block is not jammed in anyway it should function fine, and cycle as always.

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CoalisCoolxWarm
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Joined: Wed. Jan. 19, 2011 11:41 am
Stoker Coal Boiler: Keystoker KA-6
Hand Fed Coal Furnace: old Sears rebuilt, bituminous- offline as of winter 2014
Coal Size/Type: Anthracite Buckwheat
Other Heating: Oil Boiler
Location: Western PA

Post Tue. Jan. 10, 2017 9:03 pm

2001Sierra wrote:I do not understand the adjustment set to minimum importance. The cam is a rotation, and being sure the push block is not jammed in anyway it should function fine, and cycle as always.
When you set it to minimum, you are setting the underside hole/gap to its largest, which will give the most room to get the cam back into place without regard to cam position, push slide position, etc.

I don't *know* if it would get jammed up if out of place, but it looked like enough of a possibility that I ran the adjustment to minimum to insert it.

IIRC, the slide goes in part way, then the cam up into place, then the slide the rest of the way until it is all aligned, then reinstall the screws to hold the motor in place.

We also ran it a while with no hopper (no fire, of course) to watch it and make sure it moved without binding. Overkill? :confused:
Keystoker KA-6 online January 2015

Realtreehunter_3
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Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Keystoker 90
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Location: Almond,NY

Post Tue. Jan. 10, 2017 10:16 pm

Well I know it moves. I've watched it a lot lol. Also timed the cam and measured the distance moved by the pusher bar and all seems to be normal..

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CoalisCoolxWarm
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Stoker Coal Boiler: Keystoker KA-6
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Coal Size/Type: Anthracite Buckwheat
Other Heating: Oil Boiler
Location: Western PA

Post Tue. Jan. 10, 2017 10:31 pm

So it's just a matter of squeaking?

I think there is a little fan on the motor, make sure neither it, nor the wires are touching anything.

I'm thinking the squeaking might be a piece of coal chip. The gaskets on the side should help keep junk out of the slides.

Have you been able to isolate where the sound is coming from?
Keystoker KA-6 online January 2015

Realtreehunter_3
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Posts: 13
Joined: Mon. Jan. 09, 2017 10:11 am
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Keystoker 90
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Location: Almond,NY

Post Tue. Jan. 10, 2017 11:58 pm

Well that wasn't my only problem but I'm actually home now and just did a couple more tests. Relay is working, so I put the two wires at the thermostat together and everything seems to be working fine. Which is a plus :D :D so I'm gonna get a thermostat tomorrow and see if that'll do the trick. The squeaking just kinda went away.

Now my next question is about manometers. I just got a Dwyer mark II 25 in the mail, and I'm completely lost with the damn thing. I think I can get it set up fine, but do I need a probe of some sort to measure the draft of how do I go about this?

(sorry guys I'm very new and want to learn as much as I can about the stove and stuff,

Edit; I spoke to soon, back to the Same problems except it is keeping a fire but the fan stays off and will only come on in manual. The fire hasn't dissipated yet its staying strong for now. Will attach a couple more photos of the current situation. Also took some tempature readings, 115 air temp directly out of front, approx 160 inside and the attached photos are what they are reading.
Also feed is at about 3 turns from max
Attachments
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freetown fred
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Post Wed. Jan. 11, 2017 4:52 am

Do you have a Baro installed? If so, put foil over it & see what that does for your draft.
"A people that values it's privileges above it's principals, soon loses both"--Dwight D Eisenhower

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WNY
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Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Keystoker 90K, Leisure Line Hyfire I
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Post Wed. Jan. 11, 2017 5:51 am

For the manometer hook up, you can temp. hook it up if there is a hex screw in the ash door you can remove and use a piece of brake tubing as not the melt the rubber tubing.

More permanent install should be before the direct Vent/baro as close to the stove.

I just drilled a hole in the side of my stove, put a fitting with some copper tubing and hooked it up to my manometer.
This is a good thread for Manaometer install with lots of pics and info

Manometer Install
- Dave
Hyfire I & Keystoker 90K heating an 1890 Victorian
- Amsoil Authorized T1 Certified Dealer

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blrman07
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Post Wed. Jan. 11, 2017 6:32 am

With that adjustment you should be pushing so much coal in there you shoud have burning coal off the end of the grates. IMHO the problem is not air, it's coal feed.

Take it to max feed rate a revolution at a time. Turn it and wait 20 minutes then do it again. If you get to max and your still not pushing coal off the end, you might have a problem where the pusher block is riding on top of small fines or coal buildup. If that is not it then your cam is worn down and not pushing the block to max.

Where do you live? There might be a forum member close by that can come over and help.
Rev. Larry
Ashland Pa.

1 John 1:9... If we sin and we confess that sin He is faithful and just and will forgive us and cleanse us from all unrighteousness.

Realtreehunter_3
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Posts: 13
Joined: Mon. Jan. 09, 2017 10:11 am
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Keystoker 90
Coal Size/Type: Rice
Other Heating: None
Location: Almond,NY

Post Wed. Jan. 11, 2017 10:07 am

Well I did check that thread lots of helpful hints, I don't have any brake line or what not yet will get that today, I did try just sticking the tube in the pre drilled home in the ash pan door and it seems as if I'm doing it wrong cause I'm getting different reading when the tube is moved differently, but either way I have come to believe I have to strong of a draft and I'm loosing heat up the chimney.
As for my problem, I swear this stove has mood swings cause it's working perfectly fine right now.

Thanks guys for all the info, I can tell ya I've learned quite a bit about this stove in the last few days :D
Attachments
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CoalisCoolxWarm
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Posts: 1401
Joined: Wed. Jan. 19, 2011 11:41 am
Stoker Coal Boiler: Keystoker KA-6
Hand Fed Coal Furnace: old Sears rebuilt, bituminous- offline as of winter 2014
Coal Size/Type: Anthracite Buckwheat
Other Heating: Oil Boiler
Location: Western PA

Post Wed. Jan. 11, 2017 12:10 pm

The MANO should be through the fire tending door, not the ash door. Over fire draft.

Use a piece of steel tubing to connect the furnace side, the vinyl tubing will melt.

Maybe your tubing is getting soft and closing up?
Keystoker KA-6 online January 2015

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WNY
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Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Keystoker 90K, Leisure Line Hyfire I
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Post Wed. Jan. 11, 2017 5:48 pm

Thats the test port on the ash door, it should not be too far off over or under the fire, the draft is on the stove itself and since the stove is all open inside, shouldn;t make much difference.

also, you should be adjusted to .03 - .04 NOT .5 thats too much draft, you could pull air from the hopper and have it burn back. which is not good.

you should be down in the lower part of the draft gauge under .1
yes, you are loosing a lot of heat at that draft up your chimney.

Either adjust the direct vent plate or the baro damper should be adjusted to the .04 position, then adjust the slider plate on the direct vent if you have one.
- Dave
Hyfire I & Keystoker 90K heating an 1890 Victorian
- Amsoil Authorized T1 Certified Dealer

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CoalisCoolxWarm
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Posts: 1401
Joined: Wed. Jan. 19, 2011 11:41 am
Stoker Coal Boiler: Keystoker KA-6
Hand Fed Coal Furnace: old Sears rebuilt, bituminous- offline as of winter 2014
Coal Size/Type: Anthracite Buckwheat
Other Heating: Oil Boiler
Location: Western PA

Post Wed. Jan. 11, 2017 5:54 pm

WNY wrote:Thats the test port on the ash door, it should not be too far off over or under the fire, the draft is on the stove itself and since the stove is all open inside, shouldn;t make much difference.
The test port is in the ash door? That's a new one for me. Thanks for the quick correction!
Keystoker KA-6 online January 2015


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