High Temperature Powder Coating Stove Parts

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Pauliewog
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Post by Pauliewog » Wed. Dec. 14, 2016 10:45 pm

I decided to hang some of my stove parts on the powder coat line using the same high heat powder used on the Mack and Volo truck exhaust parts.

The paint has a nice semi gloss finish, and at this point, I'm not sure If I will give them a coat of stove polish or not.

Has anyone else powder coated their stove? Inquiring minds want to know. :D I know the wife won't miss the house filled with smoke on startup!

Paulie

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Sunny Boy
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Post by Sunny Boy » Wed. Dec. 14, 2016 10:50 pm

They look great Paulie.

I'm assuming by the smooth, dull silver shine on the parts that they were shot blasted clean ?

Not familiar with the high temp powder coating. What's the working temp limit on it ?

Paul

 
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Pauliewog
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Post by Pauliewog » Wed. Dec. 14, 2016 11:34 pm

Thanks Paul, I'm not positive but the Volvo spec is a min of 850*f.

I ran the parts thru the Whelebrator shot blaster on a 1 minute cycle. The porcelain parts on the Merry Bride took a three minute cycle to get it all off. Sure beats spending all day in the blast cabinet.

Paulie

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Sunny Boy
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Post by Sunny Boy » Thu. Dec. 15, 2016 12:34 am

I'd love to know what the powder coat material is that can take at least 850F.

And one minute cycle to blast parts that size - wow, that's real quick. :shock:

Any warpage problems with running sheet metal stove parts through that machine ?

Paul


 
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Pauliewog
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Post by Pauliewog » Thu. Dec. 15, 2016 1:17 am

Sunny Boy wrote:I'd love to know what the powder coat material is that can take at least 850F.

And one minute cycle to blast parts that size - wow, that's real quick. :shock:

Any warpage problems with running sheet metal stove parts through that machine ?

Paul
My guess it is some type of ceramic or fine glass mix. Last year we relocated the Lennox / Superior powder coat line in Union City Tennessee. They powder coated all of their fireplaces, wood and pellet stoves with high temp powder there.

I tested it on a few strips of sheet electrolysis rust removal and it will tear it right up. The lighter cast pieces like the mica retainers I only leave in for 30 seconds.
I set these three up for stripping the powder coating and rust from tractor trailer rims. Currently my customer is stripping and powder coating 500 Wheels a day and gearing up for 1000 per day.

I'm setting up my 1200 sq ft. shop in his fabrication facility and plan to put in a large
electrolysis rust removal tank for the sheet metal parts. I'm also researching the feasibility of setting up a small nickel plating line.

Paulie

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Post by Keepaeyeonit » Thu. Dec. 15, 2016 4:40 am

Looks very nice Paulie, can't wait to see that thing all together :) I'll bet the powder coat won't last long on the fire pot :lol:

 
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Post by hotblast1357 » Thu. Dec. 15, 2016 5:12 am

Exhaust temps are going to get into the range of 1400-1600 degrees on a truck now a days when doing a regen.

I used to work on a fleet of macks ranging from 2006-2014, and I don't recall any of their parts being powder coated?

 
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Post by Sunny Boy » Thu. Dec. 15, 2016 9:42 am

If it's glass powder then it's really porcelainizing. That'll be able to take more than 850F.

There was a fade about 35 years ago of porcelainizing antique car exhaust manifolds after the EPA stopped some of the really durable, thick high temp paints. Problem was, if it was put on a bit too thick it would craze. Then the manifold rusted through all those tiny cracks. During a restoration, I tried to sand blast one clean to be able to paint it and all I did was dull the finish using steel slag. :shock:

That's quite the operation your customer has. Too bad it can't work for delicate parts also. But for the cast pieces, cleaning and some stress relieving all in one. ;)

Paul


 
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Pauliewog
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Post by Pauliewog » Thu. Dec. 15, 2016 11:08 am

Keepaeyeonit wrote:Looks very nice Paulie, can't wait to see that thing all together :) I'll bet the powder coat won't last long on the fire pot :lol:
Thanks! Plans are to restore both Merry Brides. The first one with a black base and bonnet like Nortcans, and the other base and bonnet nickel plated. I have to send out the good base burner damper flap out for recast for the other Bride along with the footrests and wings before I get it all back together. Meanwhile I'm working on the International Star. I will start a new thread on the International Star and it's sister stove the Brilliant Sunshine.

Your right, even with the refractory liner there is little hope of it holding up on the firepot.

Paulie

 
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Pauliewog
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Post by Pauliewog » Thu. Dec. 15, 2016 11:26 am

hotblast1357 wrote:Exhaust temps are going to get into the range of 1400-1600 degrees on a truck now a days when doing a regen.

I used to work on a fleet of macks ranging from 2006-2014, and I don't recall any of their parts being powder coated?
I'm not sure what portion of the exhaust system the brackets are for but I will find out. The only items I recognize there are the stainless steel heat shields for around the exhaust stacks.

They run the high temperature powder a few times a week and I hang my stove parts near the end of the run. In one of the pictures you can see some of the assorted hangers and brackets hanging right before the stove parts.

Paulie

 
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Pauliewog
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Coal Size/Type: Stove, Chesnut, Pea, Rice / Anthracite

Post by Pauliewog » Thu. Dec. 15, 2016 12:14 pm

Sunny Boy wrote:If it's glass powder then it's really porcelainizing. That'll be able to take more than 850F.
About 10 years ago I installed a pretreatment parts washer, flow booth, and dry off oven on a Porcelain line up in upstate NY for a customer making plate heat exchanger panels. The actual pass thru porcelain curing oven temperature, if my memory serves me right, was over 1400* f . The conveyor chain and hooks were glowing at the oven exit.
There was a fade about 35 years ago of porcelainizing antique car exhaust manifolds after the EPA stopped some of the really durable, thick high temp paints. Problem was, if it was put on a bit too thick it would craze. Then the manifold rusted through all those tiny cracks. During a restoration, I tried to sand blast one clean to be able to paint it and all I did was dull the finish using steel slag. :shock:
I feel your pain ...... The exhaust manifolds on my XKE were exactly as you described. I tried blasting, used air chipping hammer, and finally sent them up to my customer in Toronto who porcelain coated Weber Grills, and had him finish them. There were places that coating was 3/16" thick !!
That's quite the operation your customer has. Too bad it can't work for delicate parts also. But for the cast pieces, cleaning and some stress relieving all in one. ;)
Yes it is, Once my shop is set back up I plan to stay on part time (20 hours a week) doing some special automation projects, along with my stoves. He currently employs around a hundred or so people. Between the shears, break presses, lasers, rolls, machine shop,welding, e-coat, acid dip, and powder coat lines, I can build just about anything I can dream up. If all goes well I really want to build a fancy, square base burner with mica laser cut windows, kinda like Ford did with the T Bird or Chevy with the retro pickup.

The burn off ovens and Whelebrator will be a nice asset when it comes to stress relieving my cast repairs too.[/color].

Paul

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