Pictures of Your Stove

Dave I agree that the 'working for a living' really gets in the way of the important stuff like coal stoves, cars, trucks, fishing, shooting, playing with the kids and dogs.... the list is endless.



Greg

Here is some pics of my Combustioneer Mark IV.

Herendeen Furman sectional boiler , Geneva NY circa 1890's?. Not too pretty as I was testing the best method to get hot air out of it and it turned very cold out , so I will wait to spruce it up. This boiler stands about 5 ft and I estimate it is about 600-700 lbs. It holds about 120-150+ lbs of coal. As you can see there is alot of places that leak air under the fire so I keep it closed up and it burn slow and steady. The duct goes to a floor reg about 6 ft away and the temp of the air at the reg is 130-150 depending on how its going. It is hooked to a 35ft masonary chimney so I get a strong draft. I hand damper it down to closed. The big heat duct that is over the water outlet at the top isn't sealed to the small outlet pipe. This way a chimney effect draws air from around the stove. I have to do this because if I seal the 2 ducts together it gets EXTREMELY hot. I don't know the CFM for the fan that pushes the air in , but it is alot , and blows hard 6 ft away at the end of the duct work. When it gets warm out I hope to either figure out a water system for it or fix my air system.

Here is a photo of it burning. Mostly the coal is just a red glow.

lime4x4 wrote:It was really a shame to place her in the basement but gotta have some heat down there to.The insulated pipe is the air from the blower going into the first floor of my house.That was one of the selling features instead of having the blower blow the air out of the front of the stove your could have it blowing into a 6” duct to a floor register.Insulating it was probably over kill cause of the distance but that’s me..lol

I agree with what is said here (to a point):
An "old timer" once told me something that changed my "train of thought"(I used to think this very same way about 'basement heat'). The one thing everyone knows about heat: It rises. The old timer said "If your basement is warm...your house is warm." As long as your basement isn't 'drafty' you are banking that heat, the floor above will act like 'radiant heat'.

...Don't "sweat" your unit throwing a ton of heat into the basement because it's not going to waste when you really think about it

Here's some pics of my install of our new addition.. Was a little nerve racking, but turned out pretty well. Heavy little buggers,, Gesh.... lol
Harman SF2500A

Vintage Victory 700 in nice Shape Too !

Heres my stove a Brunco forced air furnace.Im using mostly anthracite and wood.It burns anthracite nut coal very well using the forced draft. Still experimenting and testing bituminous.

MY ALASKA WITH POWERVENT

SORRY IT TOOK ME FOREVER TO GET PICTURES UP LOADED SO I WILL DO ONE AT A TIME

JUST FIGURED THIS OUT

It took me forever to figure out how to post pictues, but it was easier than I thought
my main heat is efm 520 with 6 zones connected to cast iron baseboard. all taco zone valves and zone control
keystoker is for my garage when it is built radiant floor
alaska stove used to heat whole house but is mainly for show now

MINO --- very pexy setup. Great pictures.

Yea I tried to keep it neat as possable but after the first couple runs (SPAGHETTI) well sort of

Here's my Harman TLC 2000