Chimney Material ???

 
Gravel Road
New Member
Posts: 19
Joined: Sun. Feb. 22, 2015 2:40 pm

Post by Gravel Road » Sun. Mar. 01, 2015 7:30 pm

Jim...No problem with the rant...I have my share...my wife thinks I should try yoga...that ain't in my cards though...

Yes, the chimney will go up through house, after 1st floor there are attic truss's above then the roof and sky.

The house is basically a slab on grade utilizing what is called an Alaskan foundation system...the walls of the house are 10 inch concrete block that are cored, the outside wrapped with Rigid insulation and earth bermed a few feet...Kind of a basement with attic trusses on it...Not to get you going Jim.... :mad: ...but I got this da....mn Alaskan foundation system approved but no decision on half blocks...go figure...here is the other kicker...the Town has a 'code' that states all new construction must be minimum 1500 sq ft....I have to get a variance to build 1150 sq ft :? the good thing is that I know the guys on the Zoning Board of Appeals and they think it is stupid and they have been waiting to reverse it...that is where I come in...gonna be a ton of fun...gotta love it...

...any how...I can anchor the block for the first 8 feet right to the 10 inch block wall....then about every 2 feet up in the attic truss area.

....so...the biggest part of this is keeping that 1st clay flue on the bottom perfect and plumb...right?...then take our time going up...

 
User avatar
SWPaDon
Member
Posts: 9857
Joined: Sun. Nov. 24, 2013 12:05 pm
Location: Southwest Pa.
Hand Fed Coal Furnace: Clayton 1600M
Coal Size/Type: Bituminous
Other Heating: Oil furnace

Post by SWPaDon » Sun. Mar. 01, 2015 8:52 pm

Gravel Road wrote:Jim...No problem with the rant...I have my share...my wife thinks I should try yoga...that ain't in my cards though...

Yes, the chimney will go up through house, after 1st floor there are attic truss's above then the roof and sky.

The house is basically a slab on grade utilizing what is called an Alaskan foundation system...the walls of the house are 10 inch concrete block that are cored, the outside wrapped with Rigid insulation and earth bermed a few feet...Kind of a basement with attic trusses on it...Not to get you going Jim.... :mad: ...but I got this da....mn Alaskan foundation system approved but no decision on half blocks...go figure...here is the other kicker...the Town has a 'code' that states all new construction must be minimum 1500 sq ft....I have to get a variance to build 1150 sq ft :? the good thing is that I know the guys on the Zoning Board of Appeals and they think it is stupid and they have been waiting to reverse it...that is where I come in...gonna be a ton of fun...gotta love it...

...any how...I can anchor the block for the first 8 feet right to the 10 inch block wall....then about every 2 feet up in the attic truss area.

....so...the biggest part of this is keeping that 1st clay flue on the bottom perfect and plumb...right?...then take our time going up...
I was talking to a fellow a couple days ago about this very thing. He said what he did was buy a box of 3/8's nuts, and used those as spacers in between the blocks. After the first course was perfect and plumb.

 
coalder
Member
Posts: 1493
Joined: Mon. Dec. 16, 2013 1:48 pm
Location: somewhere high in the catskill mountains
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: harman sf 160
Coal Size/Type: Nut
Other Heating: wood parlor stove

Post by coalder » Mon. Mar. 02, 2015 7:23 am

GR what we do is make sure of the 2 inch space code. Then lay up 3 courses of block being careful to keep plumb. Now fill these 3 courses full of rubble and mud. This will be the shelf where ash lands. Now measure cleanout door and cut out chimney block with diamond blade demo saw to accommodate door. make cut slightly larger to allow for packing door flange with mud. Now cut first flue in same manner to access the ash. Where flues join be sure to use refractory cement; for blocks plain mortar. Type s is better than type n. Put a piece of cardboard on ash shelf so dripping won't stick to shelf. Again for wall ties take metal bridging, cut in half. Bend cut end 180 deg and pound flat. use these in conjunction with standard wall ties. In basement 2 inch rule doesn't apply, so pack mud behind blocks. in basement use hilti to fasten wall ties to concrete. Use safety glasses & ear protection. For thimble mark & cut blocks with demo saw, for flue mark & cut with diamond blade angle grinder. Make sure thimble penetrates flue and seal with refractory cement. When you get to top mix Portland cement and sand 2 to 1 to seal top of chimney. This should be pitched so water sheds. If bright sunny day, lay plywood on top to shade the wash. This will help prevent cracking. When dry seal wash with thoroseal.
Jim

Disclaimer : this is only how we do this. Do so at own risk; and according to local building codes.
Jim


 
waldo lemieux
Member
Posts: 2270
Joined: Sun. Sep. 30, 2012 8:20 pm
Location: Ithaca,NY

Post by waldo lemieux » Mon. Mar. 02, 2015 7:41 am

I havent read the whole thread to know if this has been mentioned or not , but you should layout the location of chimney so that it will fall between two trusses so you don't have to mess around cutting a truss with all of the obligatory engineering studies ect. ect. you may say" well of course" but Ive seen too many " oh $hyt" so just trying to be helpfull :)

 
coalder
Member
Posts: 1493
Joined: Mon. Dec. 16, 2013 1:48 pm
Location: somewhere high in the catskill mountains
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: harman sf 160
Coal Size/Type: Nut
Other Heating: wood parlor stove

Post by coalder » Mon. Mar. 02, 2015 7:57 am

waldo lemieux wrote:I havent read the whole thread to know if this has been mentioned or not , but you should layout the location of chimney so that it will fall between two trusses so you don't have to mess around cutting a truss with all of the obligatory engineering studies ect. ect. you may say" well of course" but Ive seen too many " oh $hyt" so just trying to be helpfull :)
EXCELENT POINT!!!

 
Gravel Road
New Member
Posts: 19
Joined: Sun. Feb. 22, 2015 2:40 pm

Post by Gravel Road » Mon. Mar. 02, 2015 7:03 pm

Yeah...already thought of that...probably going to play it safe and wait on the chimney build til the trusses are up...easier that way.

I am pretty good friends with Murphy and his Law...just better to take our time and not try to do it til we are sure...no way in heck am I going to cut a truss/compromise my roof/structure.

I am the Owner/Builder & the General Contractor...can't pass up a company that will come in and set trusses, sheath and do metal roof...for a fair price...we are taking our time with this build and over-doing a few things.

Thank you again for the advice...can't wait to be a coal burner again!

Post Reply

Return to “Coal News & General Coal Discussions”