Glenwood 116 Is It Complete?

Hi Everyone.
Picked up the Glenwood. Here's some pics.
There is a crack in the fire pot right in the lower front center. Doesn't look terribly damaged but it's not great either. I think it was burned without the fire pot liner, which needs to be recast I guess.
Also, it doesn't look like it ever had the smoke pipe in the rear that redirects the smoke to keep it inside longer.
Need thoughts please. Does it look like all parts are present?
Thanks!

What could be done for the present heating season is to just make a HT liner. Next year if you want it, you can send the fire pot to get a new re-casted one. But with a good liner I wouldn't be afraid to go that way for many years

Is there a cover to close the access hole where you put the crank on the shaker grates for shaking?

Yes, you will need that cover to control the fire.

One of the grates has skipped a cog.

Yes, the cover for the Crank is there, just flipped up in the pics I guess.
There's definitely something with one of the grates. Do you think it is just a matter of taking it apart and resetting it?
Thanks for the info!

retrotorevolution wrote:There's definitely something with one of the grates. Do you think it is just a matter of taking it apart and resetting it?

You can leave it the way it is or remove the assembly and correct it. Steve Zee said it is not easy to get back. You might leave it until you do a rebuild.
Look at this link to see the problem.

Tonight I'm Looking at a Glenwood Modern Oak No. 116

franco b wrote:

retrotorevolution wrote:There's definitely something with one of the grates. Do you think it is just a matter of taking it apart and resetting it?

You can leave it the way it is or remove the assembly and correct it. Steve Zee said it is not easy to get back. You might leave it until you do a rebuild.
Look at this link to see the problem.

Tonight I'm Looking at a Glenwood Modern Oak No. 116

Not to say it can't wait, but since this stove doesn't have the back-pipe it is a lot easier to access the rear of the grates.
An access cover needs only be removed to gain access to the rear grate area...models w/ back-pipe lack this access unless the pipe would be removed.

You can run the stove with the grate as is but take care about the cracked fire pot as mentioned previously.
The grate will not give any big problem but the cracked fire pot could do so.

If you can get the bottom plate off the stove, the grate rack is easy to remove, open, and shift that cog.

Here's the same design rack on my Glenwood 118.
1. Turn the stove upside down and unscrew the bottom plate. You'll see the grate rack is held by two cotter pins at the front corners.
2. Pull those pins and the front of the rack drops down and out.
3. If just the outer grates need shifting you now can. If the inner ones need shifting, there is a bolt in the center of the front and rear of the rack. Remove them and the grate shaft clamps come loose.
4. Each cog has a fat tooth and a fat space. Match up the fat teeth with fat spaces on the adjoining cogs and your good to go.

Paul

nortcan wrote:You can run the stove with the grate as is but take care about the cracked fire pot as mentioned previously.
The grate will not give any big problem but the cracked fire pot could do so.

And, the crack may continue to grow with the heat swings of use !!!!!

Paul

Correct, it didn't have a back pipe. For a back pipe, you need the casting that attaches to the rear of the base.

Paul

Wonderful pictures, really makes clear how the grates are set up.

Just noticed something else.

You have a Glenwood kitchen range shaker handle. When I got my Sunny, it had the wrong handle, which turned out to be the correct one for my 118. Looked for a Glenwood range handle for a while on line and eventually I got one from Bill at Once Upon A Time stove shop.

Not that it maters for your stove, but the difference in the two types of handles is just the little side prong on the socket end. Some early Glenwood ranges have a stop pin cast into the front grate cover. It's so that when the prong is resting against the stop pin, with the triangular coal grates, you'll know then that the pair of grates are facing a flat side up.

The Oak stoves don't have such a stop pin.

Here's pix of the one from my Sunny and my 118. The 118 handle is the silver one.

Paul

Interesting.
I was wondering about how the handle would fit in with the triangle piece. It does not fit.
Maybe I'll just grind it off.
Thanks for the pictures of the grates. Very informative!

franco b wrote:Wonderful pictures, really makes clear how the grates are set up.

Thanks - I get a lot of practice photo-ing rusty parts at work.

Now, if I can find a better set of grates, I can restore the 118 and get it into service.

Paul