Flue Pipe Question

 
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mdhorvath
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Post by mdhorvath » Tue. Jun. 11, 2013 5:34 am

How long does 26 ga stainless flue pipe last compared to 24 ga galv? I can buy galv 3.7 time for the cost of stainless. This is for a coal gun s500.


 
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Richard S.
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Post by Richard S. » Tue. Jun. 11, 2013 6:14 am

mdhorvath wrote:How long does 26 ga stainless flue pipe last compared to 24 ga galv? I can buy galv 3.7 time for the cost of stainless. This is for a coal gun s500.
Are you going to run it year round? Galvanized will last forever then...

 
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mdhorvath
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Post by mdhorvath » Tue. Jun. 11, 2013 6:15 am

Probably not.

 
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Post by dcrane » Tue. Jun. 11, 2013 6:21 am

I've always been an advocate for the heavier gauge galv. when it comes to coal burning, nobody can tell what each one will last under your circumstances because it can vary pretty drastically case by case. I can say that with stainless their is a larger chance to see variation in the make up/quality of the steel which results in some stainless disintegrating before your eyes while others endure (With 24 gauge galv or black it is what it is and that's what you get the main differences being how they may connect to each other/seams or seamless). Something about stainless steel & coal & dampness/humidity makes for some pretty funky stuff that can happen :cry:

 
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Post by Richard S. » Tue. Jun. 11, 2013 7:02 am

mdhorvath wrote:Probably not.
I know at my Grandmothers they have to get replaced about every 5 years. Those are stored in less that ideal conditions though.

Consider burning it year round if you have domestic hot water coil since you should be getting the coal at a reasonable price. You're probably not going to save anything on the energy bills however you avoid the costs of things like flue pipes. Leaking seals, not sure if the AHS does that but the Van Wert's will. Most important you don't have the corrosion issue inside the boiler. That boiler will last you many decades is it's run 24/7/365.

 
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Post by coalkirk » Tue. Jun. 11, 2013 8:31 am

Don't use galvanized. It off gases some nasty stuff. Use the heavy gauge black pipe. Mine is 10 years old and looks like new. Just have to disconnect it at the end of the season and store it in a dry place.

 
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Post by coaledsweat » Tue. Jun. 11, 2013 7:05 pm

You can get heavy gauge black plpe at the local HVAC supply house at resonable cost. The stove plpe manufacturers do not recommend galvanized in solid fuel applications.


 
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Post by Rob R. » Tue. Jun. 11, 2013 10:21 pm

The pipe manufactures lump all solid fuels into one category, which is too bad sense a stoker boiler will have a lower stack temp than most oil boilers. The price tags are still on my EFM pipe. :D

 
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Post by McGiever » Wed. Jun. 12, 2013 9:07 pm

This is the way to go...one good puffback will peel open a snap lock seam. :what:
Why HeatFab? HeatFab chimney systems are fabricated from 22 gauge cold rolled steel making them among the thickest and most durable stove pipe available on the market. They are also the safest and most reliable. HeatFab Stove Pipe features 100% laser welded or advanced resistance welded seams that will hold together in the event of overheating and also assure the pipe's roundness to make installation quick and easy.

60% Thicker than most hardware store brands
Coated with black high-temperature, low-luster stove paint
Guarantees a completely sealed seam: no smoke or flue leakage
https://www.northlineexpress.com/chimney/chimney- ... -pipe.html

 
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Post by dcrane » Wed. Jun. 12, 2013 10:01 pm

McGiever wrote:This is the way to go...one good puffback will peel open a snap lock seam. :what:
Why HeatFab? HeatFab chimney systems are fabricated from 22 gauge cold rolled steel making them among the thickest and most durable stove pipe available on the market. They are also the safest and most reliable. HeatFab Stove Pipe features 100% laser welded or advanced resistance welded seams that will hold together in the event of overheating and also assure the pipe's roundness to make installation quick and easy.

60% Thicker than most hardware store brands
Coated with black high-temperature, low-luster stove paint
Guarantees a completely sealed seam: no smoke or flue leakage
https://www.northlineexpress.com/chimney/chimney- ... -pipe.html
totally agreed, that stuff is the Cadillac of coal stove pipe ;)

 
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Post by Flyer5 » Thu. Jun. 13, 2013 10:59 am

Another great brand of pipe is http://www.olympiachimney.com/. Made right here in Scranton PA . I like working with it. They can even do powder coated colors for the class A pipe.

 
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mdhorvath
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Post by mdhorvath » Thu. Jun. 13, 2013 8:53 pm

Thanks for all the advice. It was very helpful.

 
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Post by McGiever » Thu. Jun. 13, 2013 9:06 pm

Flyer5 wrote:Another great brand of pipe is http://www.olympiachimney.com/. Made right here in Scranton PA . I like working with it. They can even do powder coated colors for the class A pipe.
And here is their black single wall: http://www.olympiachimney.com/products/cat/VB/

 
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Post by Lightning » Fri. Jun. 14, 2013 6:22 am

Yes the Olympia black stove pipe is awesome. I was impressed with how rigid and solid it feels as compared to the flimsy snap together pipe. I thought it was priced reasonable too.

 
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Post by bsteckel » Wed. Jul. 24, 2013 4:14 pm

ok .. I know that a masonry chimney is the best for longevity based on all the posts here ... but I can't help but wonder how much a regular stove pipe chimney would save me vs. masonry (if anything). I just finished a pole barn attached to my existing 2 car garage and am going to be installing my van wert 600 in there and piping into my existing oil boiler. my plans were to just run the pipe straight up inside the building and thru the roof. my builiding has metal roof and walls. most likely going to install metal panels for ceiling as well with blown in insulation. boiler will be running 24/7/365. Looking at all the different parts on the websites provided in this thread has my head spinning. can anyone help me try to figure out an approximate cost for black or galvanized pipe 8"? I assume single wall up to ceiling then double wall thru beyond trusses and through roof metal with some kind of boot to seal on the roof, double wall extending past the roof and some sort of cap ?? walls are 10' tall. sorry for my inexperience here, trying to learn as fast as I can :shock:


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