Spray Lubrication

 
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freetown fred
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Post by freetown fred » Mon. Dec. 19, 2011 8:08 pm

Now, that's what we're talkin about. :D

 
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gerry_g
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Post by gerry_g » Tue. Dec. 20, 2011 10:58 am

McGiever wrote:
It would be great if the fans had extension tubes for easy access (my gas furnace fan has such tubes). That oil hole inside my combustion fan's AC cord connection box is quite difficult to reach.

gerry
This was a great idea...now only by a DIY'r :idea:
TRI_BURNER FAN_MOD_2.JPG
Unless the motor shown was built with the supports for the extension tubes, that is a lot of rework for something trivial to build into motor assemblies.

With an oil hole inside my fan's AC power connection box, any metal extending outside would have to be brazed or welded to the motor case to prevent voiding the UL certification.

gerry

 
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McGiever
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Post by McGiever » Tue. Dec. 20, 2011 4:59 pm

gerry_g wrote:
McGiever wrote: This was a great idea...now only by a DIY'r :idea:
TRI_BURNER FAN_MOD_2.JPG
Unless the motor shown was built with the supports for the extension tubes, that is a lot of rework for something trivial to build into motor assemblies.

With an oil hole inside my fan's AC power connection box, any metal extending outside would have to be brazed or welded to the motor case to prevent voiding the UL certification.

gerry
Understand what you are saying about UL certs. That was a stock fan once upon a time. To my knowledge, nothing like that is available anymore. :( Stove fans now days are mostly consumables and disposable. :mad:

 
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freetown fred
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Post by freetown fred » Tue. Dec. 20, 2011 5:49 pm

shibby, I sure hope you have gotten some kind of oil in that motor by now??


 
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Post by Shibby160 » Wed. Dec. 21, 2011 9:24 am

freetown fred wrote:shibby, I sure hope you have gotten some kind of oil in that motor by now??
The stove has been shut down (thank goodness for the 50 deg. weather). I need to remove the hopper to get to the fan. I also have to remove pop rivets to get to the fan motor. I'm planning on doing this tonite. I'll take this opportunity to give it a good in-season cleaning.
One thing...I picked up some 3-in-one oil, but I got the multi-purpose, not the motor oil (it's all the hard ware store had) will this be OK???

 
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SMITTY
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Post by SMITTY » Wed. Dec. 21, 2011 9:52 am

Any oil is better than no oil. ;)

 
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gerry_g
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Post by gerry_g » Wed. Dec. 21, 2011 11:32 am

McGiever wrote:
Understand what you are saying about UL certs. That was a stock fan once upon a time. To my knowledge, nothing like that is available anymore. :( Stove fans now days are mostly consumables and disposable. :mad:
One really has to be careful these days. Not that such would cause a real hazard, rather if there was ANY code or certification violation near it and almost any problem occurred (even unrelated) your home insurance might be toast. Insurance companies are trying to find ANY way to avoid paying claims.

To move air upstairs from my conditioned family room (downstairs) I have to put in fire dampers in any floor penetration (for ducts) to keep the inspector happy. Strange, I have an open stairwell to the same room ??? The fire damper code was really written for high rise buildings which actually do benefit from fire doors on fire rated stairwells and safety ducting to prevent smoke of fire taking over the entire building fast. Alas, the code is written in the section addressing fire rated walls and floors never seen in a private house but there is no exemption included in single family private dwelling sections. (Reference, National Fire Code).

gerry

 
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Darren L
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Post by Darren L » Sat. Dec. 24, 2011 9:38 am

I use a ear drop bottle and fill with it with some 3in1 oil and can easily squeeze a few drops even in tight areas.


 
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Post by minimax » Thu. Jan. 05, 2012 8:59 pm

I use this oil and a fishing reel oiler, Torque power 4x4& truck 10 w 40 full synthetic motor oil

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minimax
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Post by minimax » Thu. Jan. 05, 2012 9:02 pm

this is the 4 th year I'm using it and Karen told me to use synthetic oil

 
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Freddy
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Post by Freddy » Fri. Jan. 06, 2012 4:53 am

Here's my handy dandy oil can. They can be had for $2 at any sewing machine place around here. Yup, 20 wt is good for motors & sewing.

WD40... "Water Dispersal" I'm told is what the WD stand for. I was told by a person that claimed to have worked for the factory how to make your own WD40. He said "90% kerosene and 10% 10 weight oil". Sounds about right & now that you know that, after the kero evaporates, how much lube is left? Not much!

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