Baro Damper

Ok, this device boggles my mind. Is the theory behind it such that if the baro damper is wide open, (.02 setting) then it would pull less draft through your coal bed. If you go to the other end of the extreme .08 or .10 then you will pull more draft through your coal bed? I checked my draft with a manometer and it registered .02. If I set it at this, my stove burns hot – real hot - even with almost all of the ash door vents closed. At this point, I end up over firing the stove and torch my fuel thus getting very little burns (6 hours) and then the stove fire needs some TLC maintenance. I am going to experiment with moving it to each increment to determine where I get the most efficiency

YES, at .02 is the DRAFT of the STOVE, or INCHES OF WATER COLUMN (Draft).

So, at .02 that means LESS DRAFT on the stove, MORE heat in the stove, less up the chimney. Since, now the BARO is OPEN, it is pulling the extra draft from the room.

.08 MORE Draft out of the stove, less heat in the stove, Baro Closed down more, Less draft from the room.

it's the chimney effect. It has to draw the air from either the ROOM or the STOVE. basically a combination of both.

ie.)
Say Your Chimney with NOTHING hooked to it draws .10 on the draft gauge. Now without the Baro, it would be drawing .10 from your stove.

Next, you put the baro in and set it to .04, it draws .04 from the stove and .06 from the room to equal the .10 total that we see above.

make sense.?

totally makes sense and explains my high temp burns

Ya but if you increase the draft above the .02 that you have it at now, more heat will go up the chimney, your stove temp may go down, but your burn time will shorten for the same coal load. You need less air intering below the fire box to reduce the stove temp, (if it is too much for your room), then you will extend your burn time per load.

Close your primary air control more instead of increasing the draft.