Baro Damper

Modern and vintage hand fired coal stove are similar to a wood stove and in some cases can burn either. They need to be regulated and fed by hand usually every 12 to 24 hours depending on your usage. They require no power to operate making them ideal for rural settings with long power outages.
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Posts: 27
Joined: Fri. Dec. 12, 2008 3:43 pm
Stove/Furnace Make: Stratford

Post Wed. Jan. 14, 2009 2:18 pm

Ok, this device boggles my mind. Is the theory behind it such that if the baro damper is wide open, (.02 setting) then it would pull less draft through your coal bed. If you go to the other end of the extreme .08 or .10 then you will pull more draft through your coal bed? I checked my draft with a manometer and it registered .02. If I set it at this, my stove burns hot – real hot - even with almost all of the ash door vents closed. At this point, I end up over firing the stove and torch my fuel thus getting very little burns (6 hours) and then the stove fire needs some TLC maintenance. I am going to experiment with moving it to each increment to determine where I get the most efficiency

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Posts: 5849
Joined: Mon. Nov. 14, 2005 8:40 am
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Keystoker 90K, Leisure Line Hyfire I
Coal Size/Type: Rice
Stove/Furnace Make: Keystoker, LL & CoalTrol
Stove/Furnace Model: 90K, Hyfire I, VF3000 Soon
Location: Cuba, NY

Post Wed. Jan. 14, 2009 2:44 pm

YES, at .02 is the DRAFT of the STOVE, or INCHES OF WATER COLUMN (Draft).

So, at .02 that means LESS DRAFT on the stove, MORE heat in the stove, less up the chimney. Since, now the BARO is OPEN, it is pulling the extra draft from the room.

.08 MORE Draft out of the stove, less heat in the stove, Baro Closed down more, Less draft from the room.

it's the chimney effect. It has to draw the air from either the ROOM or the STOVE. basically a combination of both.

Say Your Chimney with NOTHING hooked to it draws .10 on the draft gauge. Now without the Baro, it would be drawing .10 from your stove.

Next, you put the baro in and set it to .04, it draws .04 from the stove and .06 from the room to equal the .10 total that we see above.

make sense.? :)
- Dave
Hyfire I & Keystoker 90K heating an 1890 Victorian
- Amsoil Authorized T1 Certified Dealer

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Posts: 27
Joined: Fri. Dec. 12, 2008 3:43 pm
Stove/Furnace Make: Stratford

Post Wed. Jan. 14, 2009 3:02 pm

totally makes sense and explains my high temp burns

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Posts: 218
Joined: Mon. Aug. 04, 2008 10:34 pm
Stove/Furnace Make: VT Castings--early models
Stove/Furnace Model: Vigilant, and Resolute
Location: So NH

Post Wed. Jan. 14, 2009 4:28 pm

Ya but if you increase the draft above the .02 that you have it at now, more heat will go up the chimney, your stove temp may go down, but your burn time will shorten for the same coal load. You need less air intering below the fire box to reduce the stove temp, (if it is too much for your room), then you will extend your burn time per load.

Close your primary air control more instead of increasing the draft.

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