Not Enough Heat...

Any chance you could have a lot of ash buildup? My Kodiak is way different that your stove, but...there have been a few times that I thought I had a nice deep bed of coal, burning real nice, but no heat. Saw a glow from underneath, poked to make sure there were no bridges, etc. But when I finally shook the living you-know-what out of it, the whole bed dropped about 3 inches. Got a lot of burning coals in the ashpan, but lots and lots of ash. This happened to me more than once. But then again, like I said, my stove is way different than yours, so this may be way off base.

Good luck.

I went to the manufacturers or distributors website and it seems from what I see that
Saey 92 is listed as on one part a wood stove and another a coal stove.
Do you have baffles or internal plates or dampers your supposed to position in a way to burn coal and another for wood?
Dont forget air is supposed to come up thru the coal from the ashpit and grates and for wood air is directed over the top of the fire not up thru grates.
looks of the size that stove should drive you out if it burning good.
One other question,not looking at any gages or digital readouts etc., where is the flap on your baro damper?Straight up and down,slightly open, 45 degrees or less or about 90 degrees?
If its open does it close as soon as you open the feed door then open as soon as you shut it?

braindead wrote:Any chance you could have a lot of ash buildup? My Kodiak is way different that your stove, but...there have been a few times that I thought I had a nice deep bed of coal, burning real nice, but no heat. Saw a glow from underneath, poked to make sure there were no bridges, etc. But when I finally shook the living you-know-what out of it, the whole bed dropped about 3 inches. Got a lot of burning coals in the ashpan, but lots and lots of ash. This happened to me more than once. But then again, like I said, my stove is way different than yours, so this may be way off base.

Good luck.

Hmmmmm.....that's a thought. I guess I didn't realize that it was possible to have poked, shaken and see glow and still have too much ash build-up.

Right now, I'm not messing with it. After 14 hours of begging it for heat today my thermometer FINALLY hit 200* for the first time! I just wish that I had a better understanding of what I was doing to cause each direction. Sigh, I guess that will come with time.

Thanks for your thoughts......it's been a chilly and frustrating day.

Happy New Year.....in an hour!

From website:
big side door for filling (wood)
airwash and secondary air supply (wood)
wood logs up to 50 cm
I think you want to look at what way air flow is going.

More digging on website and It says this unit has a Bi-Metal thermostat.
I don't recall your saying anything about where its set at? have you adjusted it and is it set up initially to wheer it belongs to be accurate? Dont rely on lines or a dial till your sure it calibrated right.

TimV wrote:I went to the manufacturers or distributors website and it seems from what I see that
Saey 92 is listed as on one part a wood stove and another a coal stove.
Do you have baffles or internal plates or dampers your supposed to position in a way to burn coal and another for wood?
Dont forget air is supposed to come up thru the coal from the ashpit and grates and for wood air is directed over the top of the fire not up thru grates.
looks of the size that stove should drive you out if it burning good.
One other question,not looking at any gages or digital readouts etc., where is the flap on your baro damper?Straight up and down,slightly open, 45 degrees or less or about 90 degrees?
If its open does it close as soon as you open the feed door then open as soon as you shut it?

The air intake is in the back at the bottom (if I open the ash door I can look through to the back of the stove and see the hole and flapper) so, it is drawing air in from below the shaker grate.

The adjustment for wood is to remove the internal cast iron hopper.

Baro generally remains closed (and keeps draft .03-.04) - today with the high winds it has been mostly running half to full open (and draft reading has been .05). I haven't tried the opening the door test - I'll see if I can see the baro when I open the door.......okay, baro was 1/2 open, I opened the glass door and baro opened fully, closed door and it dropped back down to 1/2 open - this is opposite of what you were saying. What does that mean?

TimV wrote:More digging on website and It says this unit has a Bi-Metal thermostat.
I don't recall your saying anything about where its set at? have you adjusted it and is it set up initially to wheer it belongs to be accurate? Dont rely on lines or a dial till your sure it calibrated right.

No thermostat on my 92 - there is a 1-10 guage on the air intake lever, that's the only adjustment option.

When I open my feed door the barodamper is open to about 45 degrees and as soon as I open the door it drops to closed off because by opening the door fully its overwhelmed the draw of the chimney. This just tells me its working and reacting . Yours must be to its moving. If its opening all your heat is not going up the pipe.
The damper control from 1 to 10 ...look in your manual and see if it says anything about it being a bi-metal arm because if it is bi-metal setting it at3 4 or 5 on a cold stove may be way different than on a warm stove and its possible it may not be opening when it warm .
The website I was on said it was bimetal.
It may closing and opening and your not aware of it. In other words if a setting of 7 is good for a cold stove but it needs a 9 or 10 to maintain high output 5 wont be bale to give it to you because when it heats a little the strip will bend and close the draft

Lets get a picture of the baro setup the draft seems low with the numbers you gave. and a shot of the overall setup.
The baro should not open more if the main door above coal is open because you just made lots of free air for the chimney.
Is the back air intake open? if not move the lever open by 2 numbers and see if it opens.
The Pea coal may have bridged, give it a few gentle pokes from above to see if it falls down at all.

Happy New Year!

I just downloaded the Saey 92 manual an read it. What a worthless bunch of.... well, lets just say that now I need a beer. Or three. Then I think I'll open my door and see what the baro does.

Is your house really tight? with good windows and doors?? Maybe your chimney is have trouble pulling air from a tight, well sealed house?? Try opening a window an inch or two in the stove's room and watch the Baro and the draft..

Greg L.

gerard wrote:You might want to play with the baro damper a bit. Remember the easier it opens, the more air is being pulled from the room and the less air being pulled through the coal bed. It's meant to prevent overheating on windy days. Not sure about your stove but if I run with my ash door open (unlimited air coming under and then up through the bed), my bed gets roaring. I burn nut and I started a post re: pea vs nut. The consensus seemed to be that pea burns more steady but nut burns longer and hotter. Another thing I've noticed is that after a few weeks of an uninterupted burn, the ash builds up a little despite shaking and using a poker helps get the ash buildup to fall through the grates better. The more air passing through the bed the hotter the fire. Seems to me you should be able to get that stove upt o 400 deg without a problem.

Thanks for the thought Gerard, my baro seems to be keeping the draft very consistently in the middle range for the stove (checked with manometer) so, I don't think that that is my problem. And, I do consistently poke through the ash/coal bed daily so, I don't think that that is my problem either - I always make certain that I can see a red glow in the ash drawer each time I either shake or poke.

I can't figure out how to quote directly from the posting but you wrote "I have 3 ton of pea in my coal bin so, for now, that's what I'm going to be burning." Have you thought about selling the pea that you have? I bet you could find someone to take it off your hands at the break even point but even if it's a little less at least it would be gone and you could move on. I'd try a couple of bags of nut first and see if that does indeed solve most of your remaining problems. If it did I'd move on selling the pea. The frustration that the pea is causing you just isn’t worth it in MHO. We initially tried to burn pea in our Harman II but it didn’t work in that stove either. It was after we switched to nut coal that things started coming together for us as coal burners. Good luck, Lisa

braindead wrote:I just downloaded the Saey 92 manual an read it. What a worthless bunch of.... well, lets just say that now I need a beer. Or three. Then I think I'll open my door and see what the baro does.

Yup, manual is crap! I don't think it actually mentions my stove after it is identified on the cover!

CapeCoaler wrote:Lets get a picture of the baro setup the draft seems low with the numbers you gave. and a shot of theoverall setup.
The baro should not open more if the main door above coal is open because you just made lots of free air for the chimney.
Is the back air intake open? if not move the lever open by 2 numbers and see if it opens.
The Pea coal may have bridged, give it a few gentle pokes from above to see if it falls down at all.

Happy New Year!

Ok, I did not open the hopper door, I opened the glass door on front last night - would that make a difference? I can try opening the hopper door and seeing if that does something different.

I have lots of glowing coal this morning and the temp has come back up to 250 - I did shake and stir it last night while the hopper was mostly empty and then added coal - it was pretty active before I went to sleep last night.

The back intake was/is open 1/2 way. It does move when I move the lever to a higher number.