New Ash Door Gasket

 
CapeCoaler
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Post by CapeCoaler » Mon. Dec. 22, 2008 9:08 pm

Something is not flat.
The gasket may have too much gasket cement/glue behind it causing a bubble.
If the gap is large enough this may be the reason the stove runs hot even with the air closed down.
Some flat gasket and the newer style gasket glue, not the black cement type may fill the gap in a pinch.
The way to fix it is to redo the gasket so it has no bubble in it or you may have a warped part.
Either way you must have a fairly air-tight seal at the ash door to control the air and therfore the fire.


 
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Post by MidnightMadman » Mon. Dec. 22, 2008 11:25 pm

Ok. Heres the deal.
I put my banking plate back in. Once I did that, my air slots began to work the way there were when I first had this thing running.
I forgot to mention that I took it out a few days ago.
The fire seems a lot less volatile with the banking plate in. Is that normal.
One other thing, it has a bow to it. This is leaving a gap of open air about 1/2" wide x 8" long in the front center. Im thinking that may be part of why it needs more air with the plate.

 
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Post by CapeCoaler » Mon. Dec. 22, 2008 11:42 pm

Not familiar with the banking plate but assume it goes in front and keeps the coal from hitting the glass.
If the plate allows air to bypass the coal bed that would be a problem. Is the bow at the bottom?
A picture would be great!

 
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Post by MidnightMadman » Mon. Dec. 22, 2008 11:58 pm

Here it is.
stove.jpg
.JPG | 1.4MB | stove.jpg

 
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Post by CapeCoaler » Tue. Dec. 23, 2008 12:10 am

That is the problem!
Air from below will bypass the coal bed, little airflow thru the coal thus no burn!
New to you part needed!
If you can fill the gap with some high temp insulation that may be a stop gap.

 
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coal berner
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Post by coal berner » Tue. Dec. 23, 2008 12:13 am

MidnightMadman wrote:Ok. I have it pretty good. staying about 500. I cant imagine how hot this thing would get on a day like today if the vents were wide open!
over 1000f easy don't ask how I know this ;)

 
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Post by MidnightMadman » Tue. Dec. 23, 2008 12:17 am

coal berner wrote:
MidnightMadman wrote:Ok. I have it pretty good. staying about 500. I cant imagine how hot this thing would get on a day like today if the vents were wide open!
over 1000f easy don't ask how I know this ;)
What do you mean?

Anyway. It does run with the plate this way. I just need to open the air more. Im not sure what to do. They guy I bought it from said this is the second one that did that. So I am not sure if I should spend 175 on one.
I really don't need it, but it is a LOT neater to add coal with it.

Another problem as you may see, is when I skaedown, a LOT of ash comes flying up through that gap and goes all over everything inside.


 
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Post by CapeCoaler » Tue. Dec. 23, 2008 12:32 am

Me thinks a certain someone left the ash door open to hit that high temp!
Air is bypassing the coal, coal needs air to get hot, stuff some aluminum foil in the gap and see how that sucker runs.
Make sure ther are no major air leaks into the stove or it will over heat.
Then spend the $175 on a new plate and keep an eye on the temps.
Hight temps will warp the plate.

 
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Post by coal berner » Tue. Dec. 23, 2008 12:51 am

MidnightMadman wrote:Here it is.
stove.jpg
You need a new coal Banking Plate it is leaving to much air passing above the fire . They warp because either someone
left the ash door open to long or was running the stove with the air vents open all the way . You only need the air vents open between 1/8 to a 1/4 " to run these stoves . depending on the coal sometimes 1/2" but no more then that or you will warp The coal banking bar The brick retaining bars The front grate yoke and baffle plate. The Door gaskets should be 1/2 rope .

http://www.stovepartsplus.com/Merchant5/merchant. ... de=GIB-SCR
**Broken Link(s) Removed**http://www.woodmanspartsplus.com/68/catalogs/Wood ... rence.html

http://www.hearthstove.com/catalog.html

 
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Post by MidnightMadman » Tue. Dec. 23, 2008 11:02 am

I took the banking plate back out this morning. I hate to spend 120 bucks for a new one. Do I really need it? Whats the biggest advantage to using it. I know it helps keep the coal contained and it doesnt slide forward when loading. That I really like.

 
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Post by CapeCoaler » Tue. Dec. 23, 2008 11:05 am

Stuff the gap with foil as a temporary fix, before you buy a new plate.
Kind of like rope caulk that won't burn.

 
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Devil505
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Post by Devil505 » Tue. Dec. 23, 2008 11:09 am

Any way to bend that plate back into shape? (sandwich it between some scrap wood & drive your car over it?)

 
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Post by CapeCoaler » Tue. Dec. 23, 2008 11:20 am

Cast Iron.
She go snap, crackle, pop if you try that!
Unless you have a forge or access to someone who does...
Easier to buy the new casting for $120 than to heat and treat the casting.
That is why JC had the link to the parts, he would have hammered it back ito shape if it were possible!

 
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Post by Devil505 » Tue. Dec. 23, 2008 12:16 pm

CapeCoaler wrote:Cast Iron.
She go snap, crackle, pop if you try that!
Even if he heated it up back in the stove first? (It's pretty useless as is......It bent once under heat...worth trying to bend it back, I'd say. Get it as hot as you can in the stove & then take it out & sandwich it between scrap wood & apply pressure.....what is there to lose?) ;)

 
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Post by Poconoeagle » Tue. Dec. 23, 2008 12:40 pm

Gettin it as red hot as needed usually causes the fingerprints to go bye-bye during the carry out to the yard for the truck flatting portion of the fiasco? :)


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